bruce

After a 2t/3t timing cover. Preferably one that isn't corroded.

Here's some info for calculating the compression ratio with t-series dome pistons: http://www.dorikaze.net/showthread.php?37478-AUTO-NERDS-T-series-compression-ratios The dome is around 20.0 cc

Probably get blow by and use a bit of oil with the large kilometers and the increased compression. Could put new pistons rings/bearings/gaskets on the bottom end. Then larger cam to go with the compression. Try offering $400

I saw that, but they charge over $200 to make the modification. Need to supply a timing cover. Then the postage adds up.

The top photo is for a K engine, and then the rest of the photos are for a 3TC. Rollmaster make adjustable timing gears for K engines, with up to 4 degree adjustments either advance or retard, in 1 degree increments. Fully adjustable timing gears for K engines can be found here: http://www.esapeltonen.fi/ I'm modifying a 3TC engine. Nothing extreme. Wadecams 280 duration camshaft with 0.45" lift, twin Dellorto DHLA40, Genie extractors, then head work: stainless steel oversized valves, 3 angle seat angles: 30 45 70 degree (I think?), harder springs from crowcams, pressure test, porting, new seals, and milled. Couldn't source an adjustable timing gear from Rollmaster, so I'm getting one from Paradiseracing: So I was thinking of modifying the timing cover to make adjustments to the cam timing for finer tuning. Could be useful for dyno tuning, and the rpm power band could be shifted.

Has anybody modified a timing cover so that the camshaft timing can be adjusted (advance/retard) without taking the whole timing cover off? Here are some photos that I found on the net: K engine: T engine: The face of the timing cover is slightly curved, so bolting a plate of aluminium might have issues with oil leaks. From the photos there is a raised edge between the timing cover and the plate. Not sure if it is welded or bolted from the inside of the cover. The raised bit can have a groove so that an o-ring can fit in. Probably the raised edge is so the plate bolts don't stick though to the inside of the timing cover, and hitting the timing gear.

With the pedal box check the pivot points and any side play in pedals. I don't think they could wear out much. Could check the brake light switch is included. With the gearbox have a go at turning the input shaft in each gear. Take note of how it turns, if it feels like a grindy bearing noise, or if it's firm and tight. Probably don't know the real condition until it's in a car to test it out.

The rushing water sound underneath the dash is coolant going through the heater pipes. Usually when the heater temp is on (tap open). Could have a bit of air in the cooling system

Timing could be advanced too much, e.g. maybe 20+ degrees. Has the fan belt got good tension? No cracks? At operating temp the needle is normally around 1/4 on the gauge. On some KE35 gauge clusters there is a tick around the 1/4 mark. So it goes over the 3/4 mark ideling in traffic but goes down when moving? Could be either the fan belt is not tight enough to spin the water pump pulley to move the coolant around, or it can't spin the fan fast enough to cool the radiator (slipping)?

I noticed Techno Toy Tuning has a strut brace for KE30: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ke30/front-strut-tower-brace-ke30-corolla Also camber plates: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ke30/ke30-camber-plates

Yeah ask them about the pinging, get a different opinion, it's only from what I've read. Your engine builders would have a better idea on compression for your engine, there are different variables to consider. They probably recommend 10:1 to be safe. When I was looking for a 3tc camshaft I was looking at profiles from the USA; companies such as Crower, Schneider, and Engle Cams. I figured that people over in the USA deal with these engine a bit more and that they have a good selection of cams that have been tried with good results. I tried Camtech and Crane Cams but they didn't have any profiles designed for the 2t/3t engine. Camtech did say they could use a profile from a different engine and I could specify the duration and lift that I wanted. I didn't get a reply from Tighe cams. So I just looked at the specs from Crower and Schneider for a 280 duration camshaft and matched one close to one in the Wade cams catalog. Crower and Schneider wanted $100-$120 to do a regrind, but charged too much for postage, so I went local. Wade cams and Crow seem to be the the main ones that have a selection of 2T (ta22) cams. Wade cams have a lot of profiles in their catalog, but they seem generic. You will see the same profile number for Datsun, Ford etc. just slighly different duration and lift. I decided to go with Wade cams with $100 a regrind, or $150 for regrind, resurface lifters and registered post. Are you putting in larger valves or keeping them stock size?

When I enquired around for a mild 3tc camshaft, Crow Cams recommended me the profile you have (603740). But I ended up getting a regrind from WadeCams, 282 duration with 0.449" lift. I'm putting another 2T head on, but I'm being a bit more conservative with shaving it. Though when I was taking the head off I notice the hose to the vacuum advance on the distributor had a hole in it, so that could of caused problems :hmm: With the reduced dynamic compression ratio with the longer duration cam, you should be able to run 10.5:1 static compression. NA 3tc Wiseco pistons have a 10.2:1-10.9 compression ratio when used with 63cc chamber head, so that's probably targeted for mild NA 3tc engines.

With that 280/286 duration cam, people normally go around 10:1 to 11:1 static compression. Probably 10.5:1 would be good: http://www.3tcgarage...hp?f=23&t=10121 http://www.3tcgarage...php?f=23&t=5746 I've got a 3TC with a 2TC head shaved 1mm, with the stock cam. Not sure on the compression ratio but it pings on standard fuel during acceleration (crackling noise coming from the engine). Timing is set on 10 degrees BTDC. If I use 98 octane fuel like BP ultimate, back the timing down to 8 degrees, and put in colder spark plugs, two heat ranges down, it goes away. But it still has slight pinging when I floor it hard, or accelerate hard up hills. Also, I put in a smaller idle or main jet in the weber carby and that reduced the pinging a bit. It was running a bit rich. From what I've read hemi engines are more prone to pinging due to their chamber squish area and pistons. The pistons are domed with edges so the heat is not easily dissipated, leading to pinging more easily. Where as K engines and 4ages have flat top pistons, and with their type of squish area, they can get away with higher compression. 2t/3t heads have a 63cc chamber where as k engines and 4ages have chamber volumes a little bit more than half of that.

sorry missed the context.

We got the 2 doors, but it came with the 3KC engine instead of the 2TC, so it was really underpowered

After the collector on the extractors it's a 2 inch pipe. An exhaust shop could connect the 2" end to the smaller stock pipe. Though while your at it you could have 2" all the way for a better free flowing exhaust, and have two mufflers to quieten it down. Shoudn't be too loud with a good note.

You could check out your local library. They could have ke55/ke70 manuals

I had a look on ebay but there weren't any with 8mm to 12mm thread. Only ones with larger threads for European cars.

yeah, tried Nuts & Bolts and they didn't have anything.

Does anyone know if there is an off the shelf gear knob thread adaptor from an M8 to a M12 bolt? Got a 5 speed gear knob with the larger thread, but the shifter on my T50 has the smaller one. Looked at a few auto places and looked on the net, but nothing in that size. Thought I'll check if it's readily available, before buying a drill and tap. Would look something like this (from Japan):

I've put a 3TC into my KE30 with a TE3X crossmember and I used TA22 engine mounts. The 3TC was in a TA22 previously. The engine sits perfectly. I assumed that the T18 and TA22 engine brackes were the same. Haven't compared them. I've got a spare T18 3TC, I'll have a look. Another thing I had to do was shift the gearbox crossmember back. There are some holes from factory. Then drill holes for the gearbox mount. The new holes were shifted towards the passenger side direction. The distance was calculated based on the dimensions given in the diagram tojo2 posted above.

Haven't seen a KE25 for sale in Tassie for a while. There has been a few KE20s. Probably easier to get one interstate and bring it over on the Spirit of Tasmania.

For old school you could go for a 2TGEU engine. Turn the KE70 into a TE71 GT like here: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13833 Going 2TG/3T hybrid would be helpful in busy Brisbane traffic. I've got a 3TC in a KE30 with extractors and 32/36 Weber and it goes well. Can cruise at 60 Km/h in 5th. Goes up hills easy. Get about 9L/100Km for petrol (highway/city driving). I reckon I could get better with the Weber jetted better and the diff changed to a lower ratio from 4.3:1 (or bigger wheels).

Could try hurricane headers: http://hurricaneheaders.com.au/hurricane/index.htm http://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/product_info.php?cPath=&products_id=3075 There is also genie headers: http://www.genieheaders.com/ Not sure if genie still make them. Look for TA22 1600 2T headers. Same as 3TC

I would be interested in the 151E :) Get the engines from Manila: http://www.c-autoperformance.webs.com/ http://www.sulit.com.ph/index.php/view+classifieds/id/3818774/3K-R%2C151E%2C100E+TRD+engines+TE72%2CAE70+%26+KE35_Collector%27s+items.?referralKeywords=151e I'm going over in March. Might check them out if I've got time :)