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bruce

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Everything posted by bruce

  1. Where abouts did you get the genuine Toyota head gasket from? Can you still get them at co-op Toyota in Hobart?
  2. If you use another intake pushrod and turn the engine over by hand on the crank shaft pulley does the valve push down?
  3. I think 2tc and 3tc pushrods are the same length? Have to check. Here's a set here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-2TC-3TC-CHOME-MOLLY-ALLOY-VALVE-PUSH-ROD-5-16-/121182104817?vxp=mtr In the description it has: Factory length 4 (8 ½”) & 4 (6 ¾”), so you could measure yours and see if they are the same. There's other options as well. Brdracing and Paradise Racing specialise in T-series stuff.
  4. Looks like a charcoal canister? Captures the fumes. Depending on what state you are in you might be able to get away without it. What car did you get the 2TC from? Thought the ta22 didn't have anti-pollution stuff yet. When I ran an Aisan carb on my 3TC I just ran a vacuum hose from the carb to the vacuum advance on the distributor. And I think I blocked off the other hoses/outlets.
  5. What do you think bent the pushrod? Piston hit the open valve?
  6. I got my 3TC chrome-molly pushrods from Euroexport: http://www.euroexportinc.com/3tc/valve-train-components/toyota-2tc-3tc-chrome-molly-pushrods-set-10013-5-16.html But I think postage has gone up. Have to get a shipping quote. If you want something more local then there is Jet Engineering: http://jetengpushrods.com.au/ I got quoted $140 to have them make up a set. Alternatively you can find a second hand one. TA22 or T18 engine.
  7. What year is your KE30? I found most of the wiring diagrams colour schemes didn't match mine either. But I got one pretty close. I think it was for 1974 in the Gregorys manual, the one with the KE25 on the front. I think on mine the plugs with white wires with a black strip plug into each other. There is another plug that doesn't go into anything.
  8. OK. You must be happy with the service at Pro Automotive? I'm kind of looking for options for a dyno in Hobart. But I think GT garage and Pro Automotive don't deal with carbs.
  9. Here's some info: http://www.geocities...Colosseum/4883/ Look under "T series engine conversion". But there's some errors with the engine cross-member diagram. I've got an updated diagram if you are interested. And you can modify the K cross-member to T cross-member specs. Otherwise the engine won't sit right and will be too far back and too far over to the driver side. Would be a less hassle to find a T cross-member from the USA or somewhere in Asia and it would be a straight bolt in using TA22 engine mounts. With the gearbox cross-member there are two bolt holes located further back underneath the body, and these can be used when fitting a T50 gearbox. The K gearbox cross-member can be used, but if the T engine sits in the factory position the gearbox mount holes on the cross-member need to be shifted towards the passenger side. Something like 20mm. The T gearbox cross-member is shaped slightly different so it doesn't hit the back of the T50 (TA22). So the K gearbox cross member might need some shaping with a hammer. Otherwise it could send vibrations throughout the car.
  10. Looks like the new dyno reading shows it's making more power earlier. e.g. comparing points off the graphs: rpm *** Boost Auto (kW) *** Pro Auto (kW) 3000 *** 40 *** 65 4800 *** 84 *** 100 More area under the curve. Or was the first run with 82.2 kW at Pro Automotive using the old tune, make the two dynos read different?
  11. Yeah I would of thought balancing would be one of their quality control measures during the manufacturing. They must have low tolerances for cheaper manufacturing costs. The kit was pretty cheap, bought it for $124 online. It's a Clutch Industries Heavy Duty RPM clutch. Not sure how well balanced the more expensive Exedy HD clutch would be. That was around $400 Here's a photo of the metal weight welded on: Haven't tried the setup yet. Still getting around to putting it back together.
  12. Toyota Liteace KM36 5KC pistons: http://www.precisionintl.com/Part.aspx?ID=41243&EID=4445
  13. If the head has been ported before it might be OK as it is. But if you want to spend a bit of money, then go with larger valves and more porting to make it flow more. There must be more room for improvement, and intake port bias to promote swirl. And also match the intake and exhaust manifold to the head to make it free flowing.
  14. OK, the cfm @ 28" is the units to measure flow: cubic foot per minute, for a pressure exerted by a column of water 28 inches high. The engine builder would have a flow bench to measure the flow through the intake and exhaust ports, at increasing increments of valve lift. There becomes a point at which increasing the valve lift further doesn't contribute to an increase in flow. This value for max lift can be used when selecting camshaft profiles. You could also get the flow data (flow versus lift) and put it into engine simulation software, like Engine Analyzer Pro: http://performancetr...nalyzer-Pro.htm Then you can play around with different camshaft profiles, compression ratios, intake, and exhaust etc. Observe the changes in power and torque throughout the rpm range.
  15. Was the 139hp head flow for a stock 5K head or ported? Looks like it would be around 136 cfm @ 28", base on calculations here: http://www.rollingthunderz.com/rfs_formulas_intake.shtml
  16. bruce

    Ke30

    The cheapest option could be to replace the head gasket: machine cylinder head surface (~$70-$80), new manifold and head gasket, oil and coolant, oil filter, thermostat etc. Then track down the cause, e.g. leaking water pump, radiator, or radiator hose etc. With the head off you might get it pressure tested for a crack (~$80). If the engine has done a few miles then it could have a leaking valve, or valve steam seals. So little things can add up. I would invest in a good running 5KC engine. Straight drop in. Most parts from a 3K/4K can swap over. Not a huge increase in power, but it gives a good starting base. Cam, 32/36 Weber, compression, extractors and 2" exhaust would make it go alright. http://www.ebay.com....=item3cd6366d80 Little bit further down the track you could go 4age. I think there's conversion kits for the KE30, like engine mounts making it easier. http://www.rollaclub...-mounting-kits/ I reckon it's more safer to have more power. For example, over taking a truck, or pulling out in heavy traffic.
  17. I ended up getting the original flywheel lightened. Went to Tasmania Engine Reconditioning and they were pretty helpful. They've dealt with 2tg/3tc engines a bit and knew how much to lighten the flywheel. On the bathroom scales the stock 3TC flywheel weighed around 11 Kg. It had 11 stamp on it. They said they can get it down to 14 lbs (~6Kg) for $230 or a bit over 12 lbs for $80 more. Here are the before and after photos: I went with the 14 lbs and it came just under 6 Kg. They also balanced the clutch pressure plate. It was an RPM Clutch Industries one, and it was so out of balance they had to weld a piece of metal to it.
  18. Yeah I noticed the T-series flange is a bit bigger. Thought they were compatible. How much shorter did you find the drive shaft needed to be? In a Corolla chassis service manual the drive shaft for the KE is 1178 mm and TE (6.7" diff) is 1130 mm.
  19. Looks like whiteline don't list swaybars for KE20, just bushes. Could check out addco swaybars: http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/catalog/toyota/
  20. Couple of old Corollas on gumtree wasting away, would be good to restore: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/trevallyn/cars-vans-utes/1970-toyota-corolla-coupe/1026068537 The orange one is a KE25?
  21. Was changing my clutch and I noticed there appears to be coolant seeping between the cylinder head and the block at the back of the head. Also along the exhaust side as well. I've just put a new reconditioned head on, and has only had about 30 minutes driving time. The engine seems to run well, good power. I can't see the heater hoses or the heater outlet on the head leaking. Cylinder head surface was freshly machined, and I was pretty thorough cleaning the surface of the engine block, with sanding, vacuuming, and wiping it clean with metho. I did reuse the head bolts. I cleaned them up and they looked to be in good condition. I cleaned out the bolt holes in the block. And I lubricated the threads and under the head bolts. I've used a Permaseal head gasket, and have torqued to the specifications sheet that came with the gasket in the correct sequence. Part number AJ670 (Nm) 3 stages: 54, 75, 87 I used a Kincrome torque wrench and checked the torque like 5 times. Even let it sit for a week and came back and re-torqued I did put a head on a 4K over a year ago and it has been going well with no leaks. What could I try? New Toyota head bolts or ARP, different brand head gasket? I did speak to an engine builder, and he said when running a new engine or an engine with a new head gasket, water should be used instead of coolant. Run it for a while and re-torque. Because the coolant can penetrate into the gasket and react with the gasket material before it can set properly.
  22. I got a quote from a welder/fabricator, and it's going to be $300-$600. Most of the work is in the preparation, with making up the jig. He said he usually goes from leaf springs to coil spring mounts. Would be nice to keep the coil spring mounts but way too much work to fit into a KE30. Was thinking later on to install rear coilovers with one main leaf spring, like what people do in Datsuns: http://datsun1200.co...=Coilovers#Rear
  23. What rear sway bar did you install, TA22 or KE55? Did you find the nose of the diff to be pretty much horizontal or is there a little bit of an inclination?
  24. OK thanks for that. I asked at a engine reconditioning place and they said they are the same as the 4AGE flywheel bolts. Would have a couple of bolts left over, with the 3T having 6 bolts instead of 8.
  25. Are 4AGE flywheel bolts the same as a 3TC? I'm looking for ARP flywheel bolts for a 3TC. When I search on ebay, bolts are advertised with the part number 203-2802. When I look on the ARP website catalog the part number refers to 4AGE. http://beta.arp-bolt...p?RecordID=1138 I've compared 3k and 3T bolts. They are both M10 with the same thread. Just the 3T bolts are slightly longer (~0.7mm) and has a more beefy head on it. If 4AGE flywheel bolts could fit a K engine, then they should fit a T.
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