bruce

yeah they will be different. Need one from a TE3X. Not sure about TE5X?

Later on you can put a 2TG head on the 3TC block to make your KE35 look like a TE37 Levin.

Yeah, there was a catalog program with all the profiles listed. I reinstalled windows so I lost it. Handy program to look and compare camshaft profiles.

Was going to look at some Wade cam profiles on their website but it appears they are closed down for good: http://www.wadecams.com/ It's a pity. They had some good profiles. I got a regrind for just $92 not long ago. Though looks like Clive Cams have acquired the Wade cams catalog: https://www.facebook...Cams?ref=stream

You can get the gearbox crossmember from a TE31/TE37/TE38 as well. The shape and the bolt holes are different compared to the K crossmember. Then there are two bolt holes further back from where the K crossmember was bolted to in the chassis; they are allocated for the T crossmember.

What chokes and jets/emulsion tubes are you using? Have you tried out different idle jets?

Installing a 32/36 Weber would be beneficial, since the idle circuit can be finely adjusted with the idle screw and a selection of idle jets. Good performance upgrade. Are you running vacuum advance on the distributor or is it blocked off? What ignition timing did you set it at? You might need to increase the timing to get a more smoother idle, cause of the lower dynamic compression ratio and air speed at idle with the larger camshaft.

e-go are pretty cheap if you do depot-to-depot. Make the booking online, put the shipping label on the item, and drop it off. I've used it several times to ship engines, diffs, tyres, and gearboxes. Though customer service isn't that great, and it's hard to get in contact with the company. No phone number, only email. The online status of the item's location sometimes doesn't update. It's best to contact the local freight company where the goods are going to be delivered if there are delays.

Are you planning on swapping a dash from a Te31 to put the steering on the lefthand side? Parts shouldn't be too bad. Just refer to TE31/TE37 parts. Could use 2T/3T parts for the T engine.

There was a Publica in the rides section a while ago with a supercharged 7K: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/5895-publica-1000-pick-up-7k-ze-76/ http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/pekkola/timangi.html

After a KE30/KE55 diff. Looking mainly down south, but could drive up north if needed.

I'm running a KE30 tail shaft with a TA22 T50. You could get a T50 from a AE71 or AE86, along with the tail shaft to get the front yoke to swap over to your KE30 one. If you want to use the early TA22 T50 this might be useful: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/engine-driveline-conversions/7521-series-bellhousing-old-t-series-transmission.html

Sunday afternoon. Looking pretty good :y:

Does the vibration occur at a certain speed or all the time?

Thought I saw Taz_Rx driving through New Town/Moonah today.

Yeah, it might fall down if it goes too far down, depending where the piston is. You could tie a piece of string to the end of the valve stem just in case. But it seems like it's jammed some how. Need to work it free. Could turn it or pull it with plyers, but be careful not to scratch the valve stem, just handle it at the end. There are a few valve spring compressor designs: http://www.ebay.com/...0830b52&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...5c03c9f&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...abe74d2&vxp=mtr Just need to be careful the valve collet doesn't fall down the engine somewhere when you remove the spring.

Looks like it has been sitting for a while and has seized? The valve stem or valve guide has rusted and expanded making a tight fit. First off you could remove the spring with a valve spring compressor tool. You can get the one where you don't have to take the head off and can be done while it is in the car. Then spray something like WD40 lubricant on the valve stem and guide. You could take the valve seal off to get in there more. Leave it for a while to allow it to penetrate. Then try and work the valve loose. Maybe light taps with a hammer, but not too hard so it doesn't damage anything. If it's still stubborn then the head might have to come off. Being old, be prepared for extra work and costs. I reckon the head surface would need a machine. The head bolts are bolted down with the valve rockers. There's 10 of them. You could reuse them if they are still in good condition. Good threads and not rusty.

Not sure. Haven't encountered this before. What's the history of the engine? Any modifications? It's possible the valve stem is bent and is jammed in the valve guide. Maybe from hitting the top of the piston? The head might have to come off to see what's going on.

I can see the blue mod plate in the white Corolla for the 2TG. Should be able to swap everything over into the 2 door along with the blue plate and it should be right :P: You got a good deal on the Corollas. Heaps of parts to work with.

There should be another plate somewhere in the engine bay with the build date. Looks like after 1976 with the bonnet vents and the style of interior. Probably got the later style dash. Got any engine bay shots?

As above. Beat me to it. The front one is known as Dragways or Splats. It could have Dragways written in the centre part near the wheel bolts. If not they are copies

OK, brdracing has been around for a while and are well known for specializing in 3TC stuff. When I ordered from Euroexport it seemed like it was shipped from Puerto Rico

That seems like a good price for a genuine one. I got quoted $140 for a T-18 Corolla one and it has to be a special order. I've got a Permaseal head gasket on my 4K at the moment and seems to have no problems for the last couple of years since I put it on, but it's a stock engine.

Do you find the genuine gaskets to have better materials for sealing, and are less likely to leak?

If your rebuilding the engine it would be good to start off with a 3TC engine, with a displacement of 1800cc. Would be handy to get the "T series engine repair manual": http://www.amazon.com/T-engine-repair-manual-2T-C/dp/B004GW21FK should have all the info to assemble the engine with the torque specifications.