bruce

You can get a bearing and seal kit from Australia Transmission Components: http://www.austtrans.com/ I got a quote for a TA22 T50 gearbox kit, part number K-TOY2010B, and it was $180.15 Synchro Rings 1-2 33368-20012R $27.50 each 3-4-5 33367-14010R $23.38 each I did go into the Toyota parts dealer and I think the synchro rings were a bit cheaper (same part numbers). Can get other parts not included in the kit like needle bearings etc. For the K50 the kit part number is K-TOY2007

I ended up giving up on the KE70 K50 with KE55 rear extension housing. Couldn't find a shifter. Then I went 3TC. But I got another corolla with a 4K so I got a K50 for it. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I ended up getting it off, similar to what Simon did. I held the base of the shifter in the vice and rotated the top half with multigrips. Broke the glue bond and rotated the top half clockwise/anticlockwise until it loosened off. I slid a K40 top onto the K50 base along with araldite.

I ended up getting an auto electrician to have a look at it. It was actually the choke cable rubbing up the side of the distributor, causing the engine to cut out. After the cable was tucked away haven't had a problem since. The choke cable wasn't connected up to the carby since I converted the 32/36 Weber to an electric choke. Still got a hard start when it's cold. Especially if the car hasn't had a run and the battery (1 1/2 years old) drains a bit. Was thinking that since earlier KE30s don't have a start wire to the positive side of the coil that bypasses the ballast resistor the ignition is not receiving 12V. OK for a little 3K engine, but with a 3TC the voltage drops more to crank the engine over.

Spotted a white KE36 with a TE3X bonnet and grill in Glenorchy on the weekend.

The bottom bits are different. Here's a photo for comparison. Left to right, TA22 T50, KE55 K50, and KE30 K40: Putting the K40 shifter into the K50 base plate fits, and can shift gears, but is sloppy, since it doesn't have that middle ball bit. Didn't put the circlip on. The cut K50 shifter end (probably to put a bigger thread on for a gear knob): Got a couple TA22 T50 shifters so I'll have a go at removing the top half.

The K50 shifter I have is cut where the section starts to narrow, might take a photo tomorrow. Inside that part it is hollow. Looking down, it is solid down further, but can't make out if the shaft is coming through.

Has anyone had any experience in removing the top part of the shifter from the middle section? I've got a K50 shifter that has had the gear knob thread cut off, and I'm looking at replacing it with another thread from a K40 or T50 shifter (since no other shifters fit the K50). Here's a photo of the sliver T50 shifter and black K40 shifter: Then the join which I want to undo: Looks like the top bit slides over the bottom gear stick shaft, then the side is punched in to fix it into place (with a bit of glue). Was going to hold it in a vice and get a hammer and chisel/screw driver and try and tap it undone. Though bit unsure if it's just been slid on, or actually screwed on. Don't want to ruin it.

What brand twin weber manifold do you have? I've got a redline manifold that I've been meaning to fit to my 3TC. I might do a test fit to see if it hits the distributor.

Saw a KE55 with black flares near Glen Dhu street. Look like it had semi-slicks :y:

Few ke30's on gumtree: http://hobart.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-1975-Toyota-Corolla-Ke30-W0QQAdIdZ338840414 http://hobart.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-toyota-corolla-ke30-out-of-rego-needs-pit-pass-W0QQAdIdZ338558728 http://hobart.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-rare-2door-ke30-W0QQAdIdZ338285020

Saw a ke55 5 speed on gumtree: http://hobart.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-parts-accessories-engine-engine-parts-transmission-FOR-SALE-Ke55-5-Speed-Gearbox-W0QQAdIdZ331400749

There's a yellow ke55 sedan out at Bridgewater (delta) wreckers.

Yes, engine just cut out all of a sudden, no miss-fires. When the engine cut out I noticed the charge light on, so power is still going to the instruments. There's probably an old loose wire somewhere. I do have an issue with the low headlights flickering that has occurred lately (high beam OK). Not sure if it is related. Can't see any obvious loose connections at the head lights.

ke30: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260816355631&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I put in a new Bosch ignition coil (SU12R) and a ballast resistor. Can get a bigger spark. It runs and accelerates more smoother. Can start the car a bit more easier on cold mornings. Get 9V on positive side of coil, and 7V on negative side when running. Also put some Top Gun pro race ignition leads and that made a difference as well. Has been running well for the last few weeks. However the engine cut out while cruising at 80Km/h this morning. Stopped at the side of the road and it started straight away. Checked battery charge while running it was 12.5V, and check the voltages at the ignition coil, seemed to be normal. I'll have to recheck the ignition/earth wires.

So you will have to use a t50 if going 2TG or 4AG, so you will have to convert to a hydraulic clutch. Not real difficult, just a bit time consuming. Have to take out the pedal box to modify it. There might be some bolt holes already on the firewall to mount the clutch master cylinder (is on the ke30/ke35, not sure for the ke55). Need to drill a hole in the firewall with a hole saw. A ta22 celica clutch master cylinder or something similar can be used.

Those voltage measurements was when the car was running. Looked for a coil at autobarn and repco but they don't come with the external resistor. Looking for a nippon denso one.

At one stage I couldn't get any spark. There was no spark across the points contact, but I could get a spark if I put a screwdriver across them. I realised I sanded the contacts and it left a very small gap, so it wasn't sparking. I put the battery on the charger for most of the day. Was starting to get drained a bit with all the testing. Then reset the points gap to 0.5mm (dwell angle 52 degrees). I could then get a brighter spark. The voltage before the ballast resistor was ~13.5 volts, and after it at the positive side of the coil was ~12.5 volts. Not much of a drop, perhaps too much current going through and burning the points and stuffing up the condenser too quick. Though the resistance of the ballast resistor seem to be within the values in the service manual. I might try a new coil and resistor and see what happens.

I've put a new condenser in. Still a weak yellow spark. Very hard to start on cold mornings. Thinking of converting the distributor to electronic or an MSD ignition later, but just looking at getting it going reliably for now with the points distributor. I set the timing to 10 degrees with a timing light, It's fixed in place, shouldn't move. I think the backfire was when the engine cut out and the unburnt fuel was going through the system, then it managed to ignite and cause the loud bang. I tried a different coil and resistor but still the same. I had an RACT guy come check it out this morning and he couldn't work it out either. I reckon I'll take it to an auto-electrician.

Driving normally on the highway the other day, when all of a sudden there was a loud bang (back-fire), then the engine cut out. Could not start the car. Tried several times to start. Decided to get towed home. I noticed that the engine could crank over more faster, like there was no spark at the plugs. I took a plug out and earth it while starting the engine; observed no spark. Made sure the spark plug leads were secure, had a look at the condition of the points, then looked for spark again. I noticed a weak spark. Not sure if it came about by checking the leads or time that elapsed. I managed to start the engine. Did some readings with the multimetre on the coil: Primary coil resistance 1.9 ohms Secondary coil resistance 8.2 Kohms External resistor resistance 2.2 ohms positive side of coil while engine running was 8-9 volts coil to distributor lead 1.81 kohms battery voltage while engine running 13.5 volts earth leads from engine to chassis and firewall seem to be OK with low resistance. dwell angle set a 50 degrees (t engine service manual 52 degrees) ignition timing 10 degrees I decided to put in a new condenser. Check the spark and it was a bit more brighter. More yellow than a blue spark. Though the condenser is only 6 months old (and distributor cap). A month ago I replaced the points, since they were pitted already. I was thinking the points could of been pitting out faster due to a faulty capacitor, but it's still new. The external (ballast) resistor seems to have normal values. I don't think I found the main problem so I'm not real keen on driving far. Was thinking of getting a new coil, though the resistance and voltage look OK, unless they change when the car has been driven for a while. I'm using the ke30 coil with the 3tc.

Were the wheels on with lock nuts?

If the engine is all warmed up it shouldn't be the choke. Did the kit say what size the primary and secondary jets were?

Anyone have a spare t50 clutch fork? The early ta22 one.

I've got a 5K for sale. Did run, but has got a rattle. Been told by a few mechanics its got a cracked piston skirt on one of the pistons. Would suit a rebuild. No alternator, starter motor, or extractors. No temperature sender, or accelerator bracket on carby. PM if interested.

With my manual KE30 I've got diff code U282 on the firewall plate, which is a 4.3:1 ratio. Diff codes: http://www.toysport.com/technical%20information/toyota%20differentials%20identifications.htm