bruce

Checked the wiring, and it seems to be OK. Replaced some old connections. Timing is OK. I took apart my original starter motor, and the brushes were worn down, but there still seems to be sufficient contact on the commutator. The armature seems fine, and the commutator is clean with not much wear. Checked the continuity with the multimeter. The starter motor works well in the mornings, or when I have not driven the car for a while. I notice that the starter motor is sluggish after I have been for a drive, and let the engine cool down for a little bit. For example, going for a 10-15min drive, then stopping off into the shop, then starting it up again to be sluggish. If I stop the car again, then start it straight away, it fires up with no problems. I've just fitted extractors, which comes to within 1/2 inch of the starter motor. I think thats got something to do with it; giving off a fair bit of heat. Probably something to do with the brushes sticking on the cool down, with their short length, and their springs not having enough tension. Has anyone soldered in new brushes before? Is a heavy duty soldering iron needed?

I've just put in a 5K, and sometimes when I start it up, the starter motor sounds a bit sluggish, like the battery is a bit flat. I've just got a new battery. I've check and tighten the wires to the starter motor. The alternator seems to be working OK; with the engine running, the volt meter reads 14.1 V, across the terminals. I've put in another starter motor, but it still occasionally sounds sluggish. The 4K use to start up without any hesitation before. Any ideas?

I plugged in the small wire to the solenoid, and connected the thick wire. Seems to be starting fine. Though, I'm not sure about the green wire. I traced it back and I think it connects to the positive side of the ignition coil. Things seem to be working OK without it. I also can't locate it in the wiring diagrams. It must be a spare.

I'm just wondering, with the green wire that ke11restorer was holding in the photo above, were does it connect to? I just put in another engine, and I've forgot were it was connected.

You would need an A-series bellhousing, i.e 3A or 4A. I think a K50 gearbox did come with a 3A bellhousing k50, but it would be better off having a T50 from a AE70, AE71, or AE85. It should have 4A written on top of the bellhousing.

dash

Anyone up at Devonport seen this KE25 in action? tradingpost description: Toyota Corolla KE25 Coupe 13B Turbo, 9 inch diff, Supra 5 speed engineered 312HP @RW on 8 psi at 7500 rpm pump fuel, very fast $15000 FB-6121 DEVONPORT 03-6423 2894 or 0439-630586.

This one as well: 2 door corolla

Over time the resistor in the fuel sending unit wears out. In the last picture there is a lever piece that moves along the resistor as the float moves up and down. Over time, the coil of wire for the resistor wears out, and breaks. For example, if there was a break in the middle of the resistor, the fuel gauge would only work if there was more than half a tank of fuel. If the tank was below half full, then the gauge would not work. I went to the local toyota parts store, and they don't have new fuel sender units anymore. Have to go get a used one from the wreckers, or go for an aftermarket fuel gauge setup. Or perhaps, if the thinkness (gauge) of the insulated wire for the resistor was known, and how many turns were needed to give the correct resistance, the resistor could be re-wired.

Far out, that's quality :P

I was driving along Sandybay road passed the casino on Sunday and saw a 1975 KE30 2 door for sale, for $850, with 10 months rego. KE30

Gee, that was almost a year ago. I'm alright with parts, thanks.

The oil leaks out between the gearbox and the bellhousing. The T-series (ta22, t18 etc.) and A-series (AE71 etc.) bellhousings are slightly different. When an A-series bellhousing is bolted up to a T-series gearbox, I heard the front bearing needs to be shimed a bit, I think :wink: Also the T-series bellhousing doesn't fit to the A-series gearbox nicely, but with a bit of modification it could fit.

Saw a silver ke55 XX coupe last night. A while ago I saw a 1975 ke35 deluxe; an old guy owned it, he said hes had it for ages. The deluxe badge was on the front guard. Not sure what the extra features were; probably the interior.

My KE30 has a stock 4K in it, without the emission control. I think the 4K came out of a KE55, but it is using the 3K carburettor. I had a test drive of a KE55 sedan, in which the owner reckons they just had the engine rebuilt. It had less acceleration than my KE30 (less throttle reponse); it felt like something was holding it back a little. Maybe there were other factors, but I was tending towards the emission control for the change in performace.

I have had the same problem with the coolent leaking from the back of the valve. I wanted to fix mine, because it gets pretty cold down in hobart, and the windows would fog up. Also because of the damp musty carpet smell. I took my heater out, and took off the piping with the valve, from the heater core. The valve has a plunger, with a rubber ring around it. Mine had perished, so coolent would pass by it. Coolent seems to leak out more when the valve was in the off position (cold air); when the plunger stops the hotwater from the water pump. So with the rubber perished, water would pass through it and out the back of the valve, through the plunger rod. I put a new rubber ring around the plunger, and put some silicon in the joins when I put the valve back together. Mine stoped leaking for a few months, but then a few weeks ago it was a hot day, and I closed the heater off, then it started to leak coolent again (I can smell it). I'm going to pull the heater out again, then put a larger thicker rubber ring around the plunger. Then perhaps make it more coolent tight, at the back of the valve, since there isn't much of a seal to stop it leaking.

Where abouts is Tarmak? Is admission free for spectators?

Yes your right. These carbs came out in coronas, but a guy told me that they came in Galants too, since he's got them in his car. The corona and galant twin aisan carbs looks similar, but there are some visual differences. Twin Aisan carbs came out in 4G32 Saturn A111 motor used in the 1970-71 Mitsubishi Colt Galant GTO-MII (also called the A53C-GS). The galant GTO looks like an alright car: galant I have a PDF document with a section on the SU carbs (description & diagrams etc.) from a galant GTO manual if anyones interested. I sold the carbs, since I though it would be too much mucking around to put them in my corolla. The bolt pattern doesn't match the pattern on the lynx manifold; little bit out, but some adaptor plates could be made up. Parts are fairly rare, though I heard some british SU parts may fit with a little modification. I heard that a place in Canada can source re-build kits for them.

They are twin Aisan SU carburettors, like a copy of the HIF british SU's. They came on the later corona's, on the 18R. Where as the earlier Corona 1600S had the SU's with the fuel bowls off to the sides (HS). The carbs are pretty rare. I don't think there are any genuine parts available for them; though some british SU parts may fit, with a little modification. I got some twin Aisan SU's up at a wreckers in Launceston (Foster Street) as well. The guy reckons they were off a dasun, but they weren't Hitachi's. After researching for a while, I found out they were from a corona. Though mine were on a galant like manifold, water heated, with adaptor plates. I found out that it was highly likely that they were originally from a Mitsubishi Colt Galant, since they came out with them as well: Twin Aisan SU carbs What code are on them? Mine had a tag with the code "HF40D" Have you got any pictures of the manifold, and the bolt pattern on the other side of the carbs (carbs to manifold). Mine were a triangular bolt pattern.

That's a pretty good deal; $300 dollars from the wreckers. It looks to be in fairly good condition, engine bay looks clean, and the body looks to be in top condition. What is wrong with it?

I search around for a bit, and I think this is a 3k-b head: I think there is a brass bolt below the fourth intake port, to plug up the water port for the heated manifold.

I wonder if it would make much difference with the heated manifold :) I guess it would help with reducing condensing fuel on the inside of the manifold, when the exhuast manifold hasn't yet heated right up to warm the inlet manifold. And probably atominize the fuel better. Do you reckon it's possible to drill the water ports into a 4k or 5k head to match up with the water ports on the 3k-b manifold?

Hey ke20rolla, Is that a 3K-B inlet manifold? It is water heated isn't it? I think I can see a little connection on the side of the manifold in your first photo. Do you think it would be worth water heating the manifold?

Yes the gear shifter is with it. What engine are you going to put it up to? I've sent you a PM

Looks pretty nice :) How is the power now, compared to just one webber? Does it sound good?