bruce

I noticed the rattle noise in my 5K is louder when the timing is advanced more. At 20 degrees its fairly noisey, and setting it to 10 degrees is OK, but the noise is still there. I drove it daily for 9 months after setting it to 10 degrees, and the noise became progressively quieter, especially when highway driving, but it was because the timing went out to 0-5 degrees.

I've had a rattle noise in my 5K, it comes on around 3000 rpm, and is more apparent when held at a constant rpm. Had a few people look at it, and they couldn't figure out what it was. I thought it was noisey hydraulic lifters, so I put some lifter cleaner in, but that didn't work. I've been driving it for a year, and today I went to the mechanic, and the apprentice there thinks it's either piston slap, or wear in a gudgeon pin. The older mechanic had a listen, and said one of the pistons has had it; cracked. So time for a rebuild :wink: but yeah, a compression test would give more insight into the problem.

There's a couple of tuff K motors showing on youtube:

The top one could be a W50, from an RA40

that was me, I was up at lonnie for the day

I'll be interested. Kmart and Eastlands carparks might be a busy on Saturdays :y: Guess it depends on how many are keen. Kingston beach might be alright, heaps of parking. But closer to Hobart, could be down sandy bay; at around the yacht club, or nutgrove?

Weights of toyota engines: link

I thought I saw that white ke36 as well. Did it have personalised number plates, with red letters? It looked like it had a US style te37 bonnet or something, from afar.

There is a 1979 corolla coupe down hobart; advertised on ebay: coupe

What rpm does the charge light come on? I've set my idle to 800rpm, but sometimes it goes down to 500rpm, still idles. But I think its inconsistent, probably because of the cold weather down in Hobart (was ok in the summer), and the carby needs to be freshen up. Last night though, looking at the tachometer at idle, it just went below 500rpm, on the verge of stalling, and the charge light came on. I guess it works. I turned the fan heater on full and the head lights on, and noticed the variation in the engine sound, at 800 rpm, but the charge light never came on.

I'm after a pair of 185/65/13 tyres Prefer down Hobart way.

Yeah, got any pictures? Especially when you've got the motor out. I'm curious in how its positioned upright, the manifolding etc. And the huge ports :wink:

Had a bit of a delay in getting it going; the bracket used with the denso alternator to tension the fan belt was too short, when using it for the bosch alternator :wink: Had to get the longer bracket. I just unconnected the external voltage regulator, and plugged the D+ connection to a wire (white with yellow stripe) in the voltage regulator plug. That was for the ignition light. Then the B+ connection to the positive terminal of the battery, which use to be the wire for the B connection on the denso alternator). Goes good now; the gauge lights are a bit brighter :no2:

I've driven a Yaris. I found it a bit weird to drive at first. The digital speedo is in the center of the dash, and you constanly glance over there to watch the speed. The visibilty is poor; its sortof harder to see out the back, say, when changing lanes, compared to an old rolla. The front of the car is more rounded, unlike the flatter front on an old rolla, so its a bit harder to judge how much clearance you have. The engines OK, it accelerates smooth (1.5L VVTi) I still way prefer an old rolla though :sob:

I could use the existing wire that was connected to the B+ terminal on the denso, to connect to the B+ terminal on the bosch. I think that wire is from the positive terminal of the battery. Were you ment to say D+ instead of D- for the charge light wire?

I want to change my denso alternator in my KE30 to a bosch one. There's been a mention of it here, but I just want to make sure I know the proper wiring, before I take it out. Here's the bosch alternator with the internal regulator: The bosch has got two connections instead of the three. I was thinking the B+ terminal (the one below D+) connects to the positive terminal on the battery, while the D+ terminal connects to the ignition warning light wire? The colour code of the wires at the external regulator in my car are different to the electric diagrams in the gregory's manuals, so its little confusing. I've got a multimeter though.

Swing the engine around, put in a T50 gearbox, tail-shaft, and differential :D

isn't changing to solid lifters you can have adjustable tappets. Then you can easily adjust it for a cam profile? Hey Cameron, if you can't find one at the wreckers, you might have to try at a toyota parts dealer, with the part numbers

I was wondering if ke70 struts fit as well? Ke55/ke70 have got slightly thicker disks, and have girlock calipers. I think VN Commodore brake pads fit with a little modification. There's a bit about it here

I got the parts; it was under ke30 1976-1977, 3k motor. At bursons a condensor was $33, but at super cheap its around $9. Big difference, same brand and all. It runs a bit fresher now. I thought the pistons were flat top, because I looked when the top of the piston when it reached TDC, with a torch down the spark plug hole, so I can mark TDC on the crank shaft pully. Perhaps it is dish top. The lifters are hydraulic, tappets aren't ajustable. Been a bit confusing, the distributor must have been changed. I got the motor from the wreckers for $150, so I don't really know much of the history, but it runs alright.

The guy at bursons found one on the shelf (bosch GB534) and that fits. Thanks I'll cross reference the other parts. So its actually a 3K dizzy? I forgot to check the 3K parts list, I though they were the same as 4K.

I'm after some basic parts for the distributor in my 5K, like points, cap, and condensor etc. The distributor is a points one. I've shone a torch down the spark plug holes, and it looks as though the pistons are flat top. I'm not sure if someone before has replace the electronic distributor, or the points distributor was there originally. Anyway, I've looked at the parts catelog and at bursons for a set of points and a condensor for liteace km36, 5k. But the parts in my distributor are slightly different, in that the condensor is bigger, and has a different fixture to the side of the distributor, and the points has one screw to hold it into place. I looked under corolla 4K, but they were the same as under liteace km36. Does anyone else know what to look under?

O'what, the inner side panel has got a side pocket, could fit a couple stubbies in there. The XX model has got a few extra features, someone might be interested. You could try selling the stuff on ebay

Saw a overrated red KE35 in Glenorchy. Look like it had been garaged all its life; as new, stock, paint job still glossy. An old man was driving it.

I pulled the main lead off the distributor and started up the car when it was warm, to see if it made any difference, and it wasn't sluggish. So actually it was the timing after all :jamie: It must of been advanced; my mate adjusted the timing by ear :lol: I got a timing light at super cheap for $20, and set it 8-10 degrees BTDC. It doesn't have the sluggish starts anymore, the engine runs smoother, and it idles better :wink: