bruce

I think the 2t/3t engine conversion in ke30/ke55 was common in the 80's. I've heard the T-engine can sit on the K engine crossmember with ta22 mounts, but will be too far back and over to the driver side. Another thing that people might have done was drill a hole a few centimeters back on the (ta22) engine block mounts to bring the engine further forward. Bit dodgy and amateurish. Would be best to set it up properly with new engine mounts or modify the K crossmember. Here's a guy that put a 2tg into a ke55 by drilling further back on the ta22 mounts, but he later modified the crossmember: http://ke55.1colony.com/

Yes, that's the angle. Or if its easier, from the horizontal, to get a flat base for the protractor to sit on. Both engine mounts would be good. Thanks. Would help heaps. I'm putting a 3T in my ke30 at the moment. I have followed the dimensions in that crossmember diagram. I drilled out the welds in the K engine mounts, and moved them ~30mm further forward, adding extensions. I changed the angles to what I measured from the engine block mounts. Then moved them towards the passenger side by distances indicated in the diagram. Left mount 7mm and right mount 14mm towards the passenger side (taking into account the angle changes). The engine sits nicely in the engine bay, up vertical and flat, with the factory position of the T50 gearbox, but the engine still sits closer towards the driver side (brake master cylinder) about 2-3 cm; when compared with TE31/Te35 engine bay photos from Japan and USA. Can get away with it, but want it perfect. Was thinking the angle of the mount surface could be out, since there is little room for the driver side mount to move further over.

Does anybody know the angles (from the horizontal) of the mounts on the T engine crossmember (from TA22/T18)? The dimensions between the K and T crossmember are in an diagram in this thread: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=40489 There is an error for the angle of the K crossmember mounts, which has been corrected. But there is uncertainty in the T crossmember angle. I've measured the K crossmember mounts to be ~60 degrees. Then for the T crossmember mounts, the passenger side is 55 degrees, and the drivers side 45 degrees. That's estimating from the engine block mounts, but I don't have a TA22/T18 crossmember to confirm this.

yeah, around 0.45mm for the points gap. Dwell angle around 46, and 8 degrees for ignition timing.

Saw a yellow KE30 2 door driving in Moonah.

What car is that ratio from? Your speedo is reading faster? I probably need a 3.9:1 as well; with 215/50/13 tyres on, the speedo is reading 100Km, when real speed is 85-90Km. I did try a speedo drive from a k40 in the t50 but it doesn't mesh well with the worm gear.

Anyone have a spare ta22 t50 speedo drive?

RA60 brakes are ventilated. I'm planning on putting them in my KE30. Might get some adjustable camber tops for adjustments.

There's a 2TG on ebay at the moment (Devonport): http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2tg-engine-with-tur...alenotsupported

Good progress. Are you in northern or southern tassie?

They will bolt up to a 4K. Might need extractors to fit. There's a tag piece that hangs off one of the inlets, which is for the hot water (water heated manifold); some people shave it off to clear the extractors.

Around $200 NZD :D

Referring to the last picture of the first post, has the clutch pedal just above the pivot point been welded? Shortened perhaps?

Found a topic here with ta22 pedals: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=15878 Looks like the pivot point just needs to be moved up. Looks original.

Yeah saw Rob's clutch setup a few years ago looks pretty straight forward. Similar to here. Just looking at options to make it close to TE30 specs :hmm:

Just wanted to know if a TA22 pedal box would bolt straight into a KE30 (or with little modification)? Anyone done this before trouble free? Any issues? Also, would the hydraulic lines swap over? Didn't find any definite answers: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=14635 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=12077

Good result. What's the details of the cam profile you are using?

The Japanese TE37 cluster has the speedo going up to 200 Km/hr. There was one on ebay a couple of years ago. Really rare.

Missing the button on the trip metre, most of them have it missing. Have to rewire, or have adapting leads from the connectors. Perhaps a wire from the coil for the tachometer. Some corollas might already have this. Its got a warning light for when the headlights are on and the engine is not running.

Nice ride. What's the specs of the cam you got in the 7K? Does it rev OK, compared to a 4K?

There's a couple of AE71's out at the wreckers at Bridgewater/Brighton. Yellow and a brown one.

Engines got a cracked piston skirt (rattle), so planning on doing a rebuild; new gaskets, pistons, cam, bit of head work and carbs later on. Looking for a rental house at the moment. Not much around. I'll let you know when I find one. Pretty soon now, few more weeks.

Thats what I though. The coolant heating up and expanding; and the water pump running. Just considering what altezzaclub said before

Thanks for all the feedback. The thermostat I got was for a ke30/ke55 from Bursons. It did have a small air-bleed hole with a stud in it. A mate who was a mechanic said to cut the stud out to free the trapped air better, but I left it in there (thought it had to have a purpose). Probably could cut it out and make the hole a bit bigger. I do make the occasional short trips around town, but no cream forms under the oil cap, unless the weather is real cold and then the engine runs rough. Usually on a 15-20 degree day the temperature gauge gradually goes down when the thermostat opens, but it rapidly goes down during <10 degree night. I did let the engine idle for ten minutes with the radiator cap off and after a while the coolant rose up and split over (no bubbles). Looks like it is leaking compression. Did not realise I had a head gasket problem. Perhaps the sudden temperature change from the thermostat opening made it more severe. Haven't drove the corolla for a few weeks (just got a family car), but I took it for a spin last weekend and the temperature gauge stays cold all the time. The thermostat might have got stuck open. Planning on rebuilding the engine soon.

Got this heating issue when I drive my 5k corolla on a cold winter Hobart night. When I first drive the corolla, starting with a cold engine, until it warms up 5-10 minutes later, the temperature gauge goes up to 1/3, then the thermostat opens up and lets cold coolant into the engine. The temperature rapidly goes down. Then the engine starts to run rough and I have to keep the revs up so it won't stall at the traffic lights. It last around 20 seconds. I suspect the sudden flow of cold coolant from the radiator warps the head on the block and starts to let coolant to seep through the head gasket. When I check underneath the oil cap after this event, there is a creamy looking substance; likely indicating that coolant/water is entering into the engine oil. The thermostat and water pump is a couple years old. It only happens in winter time. Not a major problem, but just curious if anyone has encountered this before, and if its just a matter of planing the head and putting on a fresh head gasket on? Or if its a K-engine head design characteristic with hot spots? Perhaps the air-bleed valve in the thermostat needs to be opened up more?