bruce

In a Corolla Trueno service book I've got, the length of the tail shaft is shorter for the T-series diff.

You can just turn the thermostat housing 180 degrees to match the top inlet of your radiator.

http://tasmania.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-1975-2door-ke30-sedan-W0QQAdIdZ230946634#

Any idea what size jets were in the Weber: primary main, idle, air jets, and emulsion tube? Maybe the jetting caused it to be too lean when reving. Or maybe a dirty jet.

Jap classic day in Hobart. While driving around today I saw: Red TA22 celica GT (City) Mustard KE55 coupe (Sandy Bay) Orange KE35 (Sandy Bay) Red TA22 (Moonah) Silver TA22 (Moonah) Red KE35 (Moonah) and three datsun 1200 utes

This is a pretty thorough T50 rebuild with lots of photos: http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=9626

I replaced the globes in my gauge cluster and it came up more brighter. They might have been a slighter higher wattage. Or the original ones were just old and dim (30+ years old).

What jet sizes did you choose for the 3TC? Been looking for baseline jetting sizes for a stock 3TC, but bit of a mix: http://www.3tcgarage.com/viewtopic.php?f=1...baseline#p39639 For the 32/36 DGAV with the water choke, the baseline settings for a 2.0L ford are: http://www.racetep.com/webercarbjet.html primary/secondary: main: 140/140 air: 170/160 idle: 60/50 em tube: F50/F50 Looking at other 1800cc OHV engines from golf, subaru and fiat as a guide: http://www.ausubaru.com/wiki/index.php?title=ENGINE:WEBER http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/progcarbtune.htm http://www.mirafiori.com/archive/Gener/94567.html Bit of a mix, shouldn't be to far off the 2.0L Ford jetting. Just have to experiment.

Go with the 2" sports exhaust. Would be good if you were going to put a 5K or 4age later on. With my 5K, I had extractors ->hotdog->redback muffler. Had a deep sounding note, not real loud, did drone a bit at highway speed, but not bad. Now, with the 3TC it's really loud, with drone/echo at the boot area.

I can fit 215/50/13, and they sit flush with the guards. Depends on the offset.

Saw this ke26 down in Dodges Ferry for sale around a month ago. Nifty looking car. Must be alright with the 5K, being real light.

It would be revving at around 4000 rpm. Need a K50 gearbox from a KE55 so the shifter is in the right position. Pretty hard to find in good condition. Would be worth it though to save on fuel.

32/36 weber from a Ford Cortina or Escort. Jetted for 2.0L so close to the 1.8L of the 3TC

I think I've seen this rolla in Hobart before. Looked like it had an aluminum/stainless steel fuel tank. Like a Torana style fuel tank. What engine did it have before the V8?

Probably was a good first car in the 90s, but they are getting collectable now. Would be more suitable for an enthusiast into old Japanese classics. For a first car, look for a KE70 or AE71, would be good to learn in.

Does anyone have throttle linkage/bracket/springs from a 2TC 3TC carby; T18 TA22?

With the fuse contact sorted and a charged battery, the engine runs with no charge light on. The fuel/temp gauges work. When the engine is running it's 14.05 V across the battery. When head lights and demister are on the battery goes down to around 13.7 V. Just need to see if the battery holds charge.

I decided to check the fuses again, as the reverse light switch, demister switch and fuel/temp gauges seem to be affected; they are connected to the same fuse. The fuses seemed to be working when tested with the multimeter. I tried to by pass one of the fuses and the ignition lights came on. I put in a new fuse but it only worked if I slid it around in the fuse slot, so it was actually the contact. I got some sand paper to make the contact better. Waiting for the battery to charge up to try it out. Just wondering what could of caused the battery to go flat in the first place? I have noticed that when I used the rear demister the charge light comes on faintly (not real bright). I usually only use it for 5 minutes, but the last time I drove the car I used it for 20 minutes. I wonder if using the demister would be enough to drain the battery? Perhaps the alternator is starting to wear out. I've got a spare I might try.

Checked the fuses with a multimeter and they are all OK. Took the gauge cluster out to check the back plugs and they are well connected.

Tried running the engine with lights, radio, fan, demister and hazard lights, but the charge light still remains on.

Had a flat battery. Ignition lights (oil/charge) would work. Thought it was a faulty wiring at first, since there was a immobilizer fitted (but not operational) with a few loose wires. Wiggled some wires, but didn't change anything. Then the ignition lights didn't come on. RACT guy came to give a jump start. Car runs, but the charge light remains on, and fuel and temp gauges don't work. Ignition lights don't come on with the first click of the key. Checked the voltage on the battery, and it's around 13-14 V. RACT guy couldn't work it out. The charge light does go out when the gear is put in reverse Any ideas?

I've noticed it there for a week.

Saw a ke26 wagon with a 5K out at Dodges Ferry for sale. $1800 ONO. Looks like a good little car, would be good for a project.

Saw a 1975 KE30 2 door for sale on my way out to Sorrel, past the airport. Looks to be in good condition for its age. Mustard colour. Reconditioned motor. $1500 ONO. mobile: 0417606272

Here's a diagram that I got from Jonny Rochester; K and T engine cross member: Then one I got from a 1975 Corolla & Trueno repair manual (body): There are slight difference in the distances, but not significant, however the angle L is 40 degrees in the first diagram and 45 degrees in the other. Not sure which one is right.