rian

Likes: it's so small and fun and blue Dislikes: clonky, slow and has now been crashed into

Posting this up here for a friend, it's a pretty cool car, pretty much standard except for a sunroof and a bigger exhaust I think. It may have been lowered but I can't remember. Has a little bit of rust in a few areas from memory but how many cars this age don't have rust. Here's the add copy and pasted from boostcrusing: Item Summary: 1979 DATSUN 1200, yellow datsun ute, rebuilt 1.2L runs like a dream Location: QLD: Brisbane Postcode: 4014 Odometre: 52,800 kilometres Asking Price: $3,500 Condition: Used Reason for Selling: need a five seater. Delivery Methods: PickUp Contact Info: 0411053915 Extra Information: this datto comes with a spare datto that is available by pickup... both cars run however the datto that is for spares needs too much work to ever merit registration. the yellow datto for sale has minor cosmetic damage from parking lot. quoted at $1100 to repair as the drivers side door needs repainting. price is negotiable and i have no interest in swaps. pics will be uploaded asap. vin number etc can be supplied by request As said above as soon as the owner gets some pics I'll put them up here. Any questions just call the number above. Thanks guys.

Nerd>Bogan Nerds rule!

Sorry I should have said I know very little about painting haha, but I do know that supercheap auto equipment isn't very good quality. They do sell some good stuff but their cheaper "SCA" or "Best Buys" stuff is usually junk. I'm sure someone with the know-how will post up soon and tell you what is best or what they are using at home/work, I'm also interested as I wouldn't mind getting a compressor one day soon.

I understand you want to do it cheaply but if I was buying all this stuff to paint my car I would buy something other than SCA gear that didn't end up in the bin after I used it, otherwise you spend lots of money getting equipment that is (like thatdude said) now broken or going to break when you could have used that money paying someone to do it. And you end up with a crummy paint job and some broken or poor quality gear that you probably wouldn't want to use again because it sucks. Or you could buy awesome gear, and as you already know how to paint, have cheap, awesome paint jobs on all the cars you are yet to own, and just be an awesome guy in general :y:

"bit of panel damage to the left hand well quite a bit, are they the same from sedan to the panel van?" A standard KE70 sedan either slant or flat front will have different guards, but I'm fairly sure T18 or the DX(I think?) model of KE70 guards are the same. Maybe someone else on here will be able to confirm this.

Altezzaclub I have the same dizzy as you in a 4kc and it seems really sluggish under about 3000rpm, seems to go alright above 3000rpm though. It's seriously annoying when you try to accelerate up a hill, even in the lower gears it struggles to gain any speed on a slope. The timing is at about 10deg and I'm pretty sure the old points dizzy was also at about 10deg as well but just felt like it went faster. I've never been able to do the same speed over hills as I used to when it had the old points dizzy :(

Why don't you go into repco/supercheap/autobahn or whatever and see if you can get a brand spanker for a KE70? I know they can get them for other oldish cars so you should be able to get one for a KE70 as it was probably one of the most popular cars of it's time.

Could it be something to do with the pitman arm? A friend of mine had sloppy steering and from memory it was something to do with the pitman arm, like a worn bush or something. I can't remember it very well though sorry.

I rev my car out heaps but still can't keep up with traffic...

No way! that's just sad, AE71s are so awesome. And that one was really crisp wasn't it? Serious bummer dude. At least you could use the parts to make another neat AE71 out of a KE70 or something. Mine is fine now, I still drive it everyday. I guess I'll slowly fix it up over time and maybe I'll even learn some skills doing so, I'm pretty spastic at car stuff so it may be a good thing to get the opportunity to practice that sort of thing on a smashed up old KE :y:

This should become the crashed car thread. Evan that seriously sucks man

That's what I did, I had no idea what a porta power was until someone suggested it to me. It worked really well, pushed most of it out but it still looks like shit, all the little dings and creases are still there and the paint is cracked. But I don't mind too much because it's still drivable and looks okay from a distance, plus I now have $1700 towards a new car :)

I put some pics in the post above for you, hope it helps.

Don't have to change anything but the bonnet, they are the same car just with different engines This is an AE71: This is a slant front KE70: And this is a KE70 flat front (normally has plastic bumper):

The flat front and slant front versions of KE70 have different bonnets, if the 84 KE70 is slant front it should fit your AE71, and I think the later model KE70s are slant front so an 84 model bonnet should fit.

You must have the GT40R, you should probably run the resistor with that. I think if you want to get rid of the resistor get a GT40 (without the "R"), then the heavier wire that goes into the resistor (it comes out of inside of the front right quarter panel I think and is black and red?) goes onto the +ve on the coil. Edit: I'm pretty sure that's how it goes, I'm going to run out to my car now to check. Edit #2: Here's how mine goes: -Wires from front right quarter panel: Black/Red wire goes to positive on coil(used to go to resistor) Black/White wire earths out under the coil bracket Plain black wire goes to negative on coil Plain red wire goes to positive on coil -Wires from distributor: Black/White wire goes to positive on coil Brown wire goes to negative on coil -Noise suppressor thingy goes to positive on coil By the way this is in a KE70 running an electronic dizzy without the ballast resistor, I'm pretty sure I got everything right. Hope it helps

I wish! But seriously I don't think you could do it that cheap, unless you knew peeps who knew the right peeps

I'm upgrading to an electronic dizzy and using a Bosch GT40, although the GT40 has been discontinued and replaced by the GT40T but it says on the front of the GT40T box "WARNING: use only with contact points ignition systems" or something similar to that. So I don't know what the go is there as I thought the GT40T was the one you use with electronic dizzies and the GT40RT was the one you used with points dizzies. Anyway you can get the old style GT40 on ebay (cheaper too) if you decide to go electronic dizzy, and ditch the resistor if you do, otherwise go for the GT40R like SLO-030 suggested. Edit: I thought 4k-u engines had electronic dizzies? I'm pretty sure I have an old 4k-u electronic dizzy sitting in the shed at home.

Yeah I've already sussed out US ebay for AGXs, I'm getting some soon. So syked! Edit: I saw that pic of your strut when you posted it up just then, those T3 gland nut/spacer combo things are cool, and probably cheaper than a coilover conversion, and they'd be legal wouldn't they, whereas I don't think coilovers are without being engineered. Awesome!

Thanks for the pics they help a lot. Next time I have money I'm going to have to get myself some of those AGXs, they're what I should have bought in the first place :(

So with AE86 strut inserts and similar, the body is 43.5mm OD but either narrows down to or steps down to 40.5mm at the top of the body where it meets the gland nut, is that right? I'm yet to see an AE86 strut insert as I bought this setup secondhand with the skyline inserts already in there, and I'm now a little confused as the gland nut that came with the setup has an ID of ~43.5-44mm yet fits into the strut casing nicely, and I just assumed this was a standard AE86 gland nut. So either the gland nut that came with the setup is off something else or it has been machined. Next time I do something like this I'm just going to buy the right gear straight up haha. Thanks for the help parrot, and I think you helped me out last time I had a problem like this so yeah thanks, I appreciate it.

Sorry I didn't explain it very well, I meant the body of the damper doesn't fit inside the gland nut. The nut goes into the strut fine, the shaft fits through the hole, and the thread fits good. But the gland nut won't fit over the body of the damper, the inside diameter of the threaded part of the gland nut is smaller than the outside diameter of the damper. Which doesn't make sense to me because I thought AE86 struts were 43.5mm OD and the inside of the threaded part of the gland nut is only ~40mm, the dampers I have now are 41.5mm OD and they don't even fit in. I think AJPS sent me the wrong ones, I would have just called him but it's a sunday, and I really wanted to get it sorted today. Heaps bummed out

My gland nuts from AJPS arrived the other day, I went to put them in today and they don't fit. I was under the impression AE86 and most Toyota strut inserts are 43.5mm in diameter, and the gland nuts I just received for AE86 struts have an inside diameter of ~40mm? Did I stuff up somewhere? I'm using dampers from a Skyline that are 41.5mm in diameter in AE86 struts and they only just don't fit inside the gland nut, is grinding the top of the damper down the slightest bit just silly and dangerous? The dampers get fatter at the top and the tube seems like it would be a little thicker there so it might work and it only needs to be the slightest bit smaller to fit inside the gland nut, I really don't know if I should though. Has AJPS sent me the wrong gland nuts?

Only when you can no longer turn, then you've gone too low