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Chestikoph Sr20Det Ke55 Coupe

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You might already know this after doing you turbo water lines but the straight fittings are pretty cheap ($8'ish each). Its when you start using lots of 45* or 90* fitting that it gets expensive ($35+ each).

When I did all of mine I used as many 90* adapters as I could and hence ended up with a lot of straight fittings which was heaps cheaper.

 

Now that I've pulled my car apart a few times myself and my mates who help all love the speedflow fittings as they just make life so easy. >|

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  • chestikoph1
    chestikoph1

    Pretty much finished. Turned out ok, I think? Doesn't give too much away when the plates are on. Only need to do the short hose from the block to the thermostat. Thermostat fully opens at 86 degre

  • chestikoph1
    chestikoph1

    I have had to butcher up the dash in order to fit back in around the cage, the Carlos bars have made it really  hard to get it back in. It has to wedge between that and the A pillar bar for to fi

  • chestikoph1
    chestikoph1

    Have made a start on the inside of the car, ripped out the old sound deadening off the inside of the firewall and stuck on some dynamat. I want the cabin to be nice and quiet. This stuff is great, e

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Hey man what brake master cylinder are you using for your brake upgrade. Ive got FC calipers as well and will be doing the same conversion soon.

  • Author
Hey man what brake master cylinder are you using for your brake upgrade. Ive got FC calipers as well and will be doing the same conversion soon.

 

I still have the standard ke55 one for the moment, it drove ok with that on.

But the brake pedal was a bit sensitive, i was going to wait and see what the felt like after

the rear disks are on, but most probably go up to a 1 inch master cylinder.

I think there is 15/16 commodore one that will fit, or i might get my one bored out.

Hope that helps.

Edited by chestikoph1

  • Author

Well another week passes and some more work done.

I got the crossmember and gearbox mount back from the powder coaters today.

Covers up my ugly welding well.

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Put the engine back in the car for the third time now!!

Hopefully for the last time, although i have feeling it may need to come out one more time, i may need to massage the

tunnel slightly towards the back of the box.

Also started to connect the heater hoses, what a pain in the ass it has turned out to be.

The outlets on the SR are 3/4 inch, and the outlet on the heater are only 1/2 inch and are right behind the head, bloody awkward.

So i cut the outlets off and reversed them so they point down, and i will have to get a couple of reducers.

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Gave the engine bay a bit of a clean before i put it in. :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Have made a start on the inside of the car, ripped out the old sound deadening off the inside of the firewall and stuck on some dynamat.

I want the cabin to be nice and quiet.

This stuff is great, easy to apply and it moulds well into all the undulations.

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  • Author

More progress lately, got the surge tank nearly finished.

Just waiting on some efi fuel clamps to finish it off.

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Also the dash is coming along nicely.

Going to get rid of the ash tray and put in another couple gauges, boost gauge ( one that reads more than 7psi :jamie: ) and air/fuel ratio gauge.

I don't get why more people don't run air/fuel ratio gauges, often your first warning that your starting to run lean especially when running higher boost and factory tune.

Noisy exhaust, loud stereo and your not going to hear pinging.

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Edited by chestikoph1

dejavu!!!!!!! haha awesum build mate ,I'm doing exact same thing in to a 4door good to see another sr20 rolla coming to life nice work :jamie:

  • Author

Got this from japan in the mail the other day. 3" Tomei stainless dump pipe

Neatest bit of welding i have ever seen, must have been done by a machine.

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nice dump pipe there, question:: how much clearance to the idler arm do you get with this one over stock?

  • Author
nice dump pipe there, question:: how much clearance to the idler arm do you get with this one over stock?

 

Thanks Mate, it wasn't cheap but definantly looks like an improvement over the stock one.

It's almost identical to the factory one in size, the flange sits just to the side of the bottom

of the idler arm about 10-15mm gap.

The only thing is the angle of the bottom flange isn't the best, wont know until i bolt up the secondary to see if the secondary pipe hits.

Take some better pics on the car when i get a chance if you want?

Yeah mate be good, my factory dumper sitts very close to the idler arm thingo just woundered if these ones were much different,

nice build tho wish i was at that stage!! everything takes so dam long to do haha ,

  • Author

One small step closer to start up.

Starter motor and alternator wired up

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Hi guys,

What do you reckon?

Should look better when its all painted black.

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