19914afc Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 I can ask at work how much for a new one? And does that manual that I really should pick up one day say anything about replacing them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted December 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 Well now the manual just says to oil the threads when reassembling. I just thought rod bolts were under a lot of stress and most people are fairly fussy about them. I might fit new ones anyhow just to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam_Q Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 your meant to remachine the big ends when you change rod bolts though "re-rounding". I would use what you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedKE30 Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 So you're after a standard genuine 2AZ head gasket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted December 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 Yes thats it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Jake, when ya ask Nelly, just get her to tell you if they are stretch bolts or not. the epc should tell her if they are torque region reusable parts or not. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19914afc Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 Ah ok will see tomorrow then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted December 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 drooooooooool :wub: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLO-030 Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 NOM NOM NOM NOM :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diegoh Posted December 23, 2011 Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 ooh la laH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2012 My thoughts exactly. I found a really classy alloy welder so its time soon to get the inlet finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alvarado.e09 Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 can't wait to see this on the road doing some mean burn outs :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alvarado.e09 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Any New Updates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 Today I finished the shaping/fabrication part of the inlet once nd for all. I ground angles on the tubes at either end to bring the line of the throttles down under the bonnet better. The front corner where the tps is is right about flush with the bonnet skin, so thats close enough for me. Ideally Id like to do curved trumpets in a box, so a slight bulge in the bonnet should be all i need to make it all clear nicely. I'm really happy with the precision of the alloy components for the manifold, and hopefully tomorrow I can drop it at the welders workshop to be finished. I'm also going to get him to tig on some lumps of alloy so that I can fit a brake booster barb and some smaller barbs under the throttles that I can connect to a vacuum manifold for the map sensor and possibly ISCV if I use one. Once it was all machined up, I was able to measure from valve top to butterfly - 192mm, which by my basic itb design principles should be making peak power at around 7000rpm, which is about all the rpm I have to play with, so hopefully it tunes quite well once built. Its about 240mm from valve top to the top of the throttle face, so to get my desired 350mm inlet tract I will need to add 110mm trumpets, which is fine because I have room for up to around 150mm trumpets anyhow. So I think curved trumpets in a box is the go. I also cut open the standard oil pan to reveal the space inside. I left the metal intact at the new lowest point, so I could sit the pickup screen at the appropriate place and design the right angle extension piece I need to connect the 2 flanges. This will be organised tomorrow as well hopefully. I guess I have a little renewed motivation this week as I might be deep into some more shop fitting jobs in a few weeks so this may be the only time I have to do it for a bit, so I need to make the most of it. After these 2 jobs are done, I will have to design a tensioner setup for the 6 rib belt that works, as the stock one is pretty useless once you delete the ac and power steering. I have 2 or 3 ways to do it, just need to decide which is the least work and most useful and go with that. Then I need my headers made and to make a scratch loom for the adaptronic ecu that will control the engine. Then I need to drop it into the ae86 complete chassis I have here and look at having my f series diff modified to fit into the chassis aswell, then a drives haft of course to complete it all. So not a whole lot of work but I can see the headers, loom, ecu and diff mods adding up to a pretty penny. Will have to sell a few bits I don't need to keep this thing on the boil. Peace! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.