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Everything posted by Jordain
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Mounted clutch cylinder Simple bracket underneath which connects to standard Clutch pedal... well welded to it... don't know how well it will hold up but should be fine!!!! Decided to pull the motor out... pick the 4age up tomorrow... So tomorrows jobs are... pick motor up, get bearing for the end of the crank.. bolt gearbox and all bolt on parts to the motor and install it... make sure mounts fit 100%.... then weld the mounts if they fit correctly. Cut shifter hole in the tunnel. Sundays job is to make tailshaft fit... I have done some research and measurements and believe a standard ae71 t50 yoke will simply swap onto a ke20 tailshaft and be the correct length...... fingers crossed!
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work at a gokart shop in my spare time, go to uni and study engineering and buy cheap ke70's and other cars and clean them up and sell them off... I get a lot of stuff cheap ( 4a parts etc ) because i know a lot of people and tend to do stuff for mates and end up with stuff done at mates rates.. well a lot of it.
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complete rwd 4a loom and jdm ecu. 5/8th Clutch mastercylinder also pictured braided clutch line... will install all tomorrow afternoon as i need a 30mm holesaw for firewall standard cross member, untouched sway bar and sump, standard KE20 gearbox cross member... firewall isn't hit either... fits a dream! TRD extractors.. SO.... all i have to do is find a T50 tailshaft yoke and a smallport motors thats running and i can dump it in!!!!
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it doesn't really cost that much when you do everything yourself, do work for mates to get stuff cheaper or free... I got this complete 4a swap for a price i couldn't resist. I got everything I need minus a smallport short motor ( because the one in the car blows oil everywhere for some reason ) including the fuel set up and exhaust to make fit the ke20..... From a friend ofcourse, and from another friend I got a blacktop bottum end and a smallport head that we are going to put together and make a motor out of.... using the parts from the motor pictured which is blown. I'm hoping to have a 4a in the car in 3 weeks..... This week i'm going to piece together everything I need and hopefully pick up a ke20 scrap shell to mount the motor and do everything i need so its essentially just a bolt in procedure.
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What happened to the old bonnet and all the original trim rings and stuff.. the First picture it looked so overrated now it looks... wrecked lol... I hope your painting the bonnet soon haha.
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true, would've been close in standard form though.
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What's the length of a standard shock... your telling me that those shocks aren't standard when they've got Toyota stamped into them... Those shocks are just super short... it's on the bumpstop constant atm..... a bit lower than in the pics haha. Well i'm at a point in this Corollas life where I've got a decision to make... 4age or 7K I can get a 4age into it and running for about $1500..... that's fuel, wiring, motor, box, hydraulic clutch set up, tailshaft, brake upgrade all covered. It will take about a week to do.... I've picked up another KE20 to mock it all up so the car's off the road for a weekend. I've got an RX3 LSD diff i'll put in when I break the factory diff.. BUT I feel bad.... as the car's original, so what's everybodys opinion... 4a or a 7k
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Correct... If you wanted to do a nicer job you could put a nut inside the rail some how lol.
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That's how he did it... Just simply drilled holes and bolted it to rails... have to put crush tubes in so it does not crush the rails and rip through the rail..... :) Same way i mounted mine dude.
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Mine and a Mates Ke11.... :) Old original shock vs the new short stroke shock... sooo good.. Time to reset the leaf springs and make some coilovers for it.
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Heres some more pics... Steering column consists of.... KE55 outer tubing.. bottum tube has 10mm cut off, flared with an exhaust flaring tool to fit the KE70 internal shaft ( only flared for the bearing to fit snug ) with KE55 top half of the internal shaft ( as its about 100mm longer than KE70 ). I then have the KE10 steering column bush and shaft ( 30mm outside diametre ) with a reducer machined up from mild steel to adapt the KE55 to KE10 shaft ( 45mm to 30mm ) which allows me to use the standard KE10 indicator set up... The hardest part was setting it all out and working it all out.. lots of precise measurements so the Blinkers cancel, the horn doesnt turn on when you turn corners etc etc.... Theres some updates :)
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Pedal box was cheap, bout $200... the mastercylinders are $130 each lol...........
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Straya -- There ya go Jono hahaha!
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First attempt at steering column and pedals.... Only requirement was the standard dash had to fit in its spot and the standard blinker cluster was to be used and the column was to be collapsible and look stock! second time for the pedal box... 3 times for the column tailshaft done nightmare........ i've actually done a bit of the wiring now Will get more photos of progress as these photos are about 2 weeks old now.......... :) Car will be at Toyotafest or whatever this Toymods thing is this weekend....... sadly no ITBS :*( yet
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I wish......... 1GR-FE ... oneday after the KE10 Beams is done Swapped my Datsun 1200 for a overrated little KE20. Well the plans for it are simple... just clean the body up more, find some overrated stock front seats, peal the sticker bomb off the dash, paint the dash black, find a good condition dash pad, fix all the instruments... Best modification so far was Air horns and twisted the window washer to the side to squirt people haha!
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What's the rear end set up like? What do you run in the 2j one and this one. I'm building a KE10 and got a Hilux diff in the rear... what sort of linkages do you run? Cheers
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Well lots of updates.. been working heaps... ticking boxes off... Girlfriends car.... wheels came from japan... the rear's didnt have a hope in hell to fit ... so out came the grinder and I cut the rear axle up and adjusted some stuff and added some toe in so it wouldn't be so sketchy through windys at 80k's... went for a Natio park run.... Was amazing. Gets a lot of attention... sometimes the wrong kind of attention. Oh well looks sweet... the car's getting painted at the moment.. been pulling dints out of it and straightening it up slowly. sorted the rack and pinion brackets out 100%... used the Ke70 standard drivers side bracket.. EFI set up Painted up installed.... bought a thermo and put it on Test fitted the engine .... wiring and fuel should be done soon..... hopefully!
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What can I say.... it loves shoes just like me haha! I've nearly finished rebuilding my SSR mesh wheels... so cheering about that!! Can finally get it sorted. The cars on the hoist... slowly whelding it all up now and etch primering it.. then i can finish wiring and fuel!
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Firewall done........ Off to the sandblasters tomorrow then I can completely weld it all up and seam seal it then etch prime it all up. another pic of the wall and tunnel... Man it took some time to do... did everything twice pretty much, don't know how many times i cut the tunnel and middle part back out and rewelded because i wasn't happy with it. rear ride height is perfect... 14" wheels with 155/55 tyres front and rear... the front needs to be dropped 30mm and add the KE55 LCA's back in instead of ae86 ones and it's perfect again... I'll upload some more pictures tomorrow when its nice and clean and just come back from the blasters... more than likely will find some rust holes in the boot, floor or the rails etc.... hahaha!!!!!!!! I've purchased a Race technology Dash 2 the same as Luke and also an Adaptronic E420 ECU Which i've started wiring... such a nightmare. Fuel system is complete aswell... Stock tank, VT commodore Intank set up using castlemaine weld in ring. Pictures soon and hopefully a start up vid.
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Nice safety vest homo.
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The problem is theres no castor adjustment with the ke10's.... datto 1200's do it aswell as you can't adjust the castor until you thread the castor rod more and add an extra nut and wind some castor into it... as soon as you add abit more castor they stop tracking so bad. As everybody else has said tyres aswell shaun. :) Have fun...... remember to do your wheelnuts up lol
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since this photo it's all been evened up and the box sections been trimmed and the scollop in the firewall has been boxed up for the starter motor... The footwell is insane... barefoot driving only I think! I started pulling the Altezza wiring loom apart, purchased an E420d Adaptornic ECU... hopefully have the firewall and tunnel finished 100% tomorow and the wiring well underway. For the Fuel system, I've copied luke and gone with a VT 5L commodore pump set up, It has the surge tank inside it and is a shitload neater and gives us more bootroom... so was an easy option for me. Using a Castlemaine Weld in adaptor ring to make stuff easy, so hopefully by Friday the car will be rolling again with the engine in and the Tunnel and firewall done with the ECU mounted and some wiring knocked over. I have mounted a 10" thermo fan onto the ASI Ebay Civic radiator I bought.. fits perfectly. The LEEN gearbox kit is well underway now, just waiting on a friend to machine the main shaft then I can reassemble. Hopefully in 2-3 weeks the car will be startable. The brakes is the next job... mounting the willwood pedal box will be a challenge as there is not much room under the wiper set up in a KE10... thinking about moving it to the otherside If I can get away with it... will have to ponder upon it for a while. I've ordered the mastercylinders and got some hardline so will sort it out soon and hopefully have some brakes on the old girl! SOOOO KEEN to drive it...Been driving a dirty Datsun 1200... makes me want the KE10 done already!! I blew the A12 on friday... so building a new motor so I can tear shit up again.. Motivates me so much driving it!
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I thought Ke10's where 25L? They are pretty small dude, whatever your tank is I've got 2 of them so assume they are ke10 tanks. KE20's go to the top of the parcel shelf in a ke10
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I'm thinking about putting a ke20 fuel tank in Luke.. bolts in, and is 35L... looks like a good upgrade, although I don't know if i can be bothered finding one hahaha.