Super Jamie

i would be keen for antics at fisho's, involving alcohol and girls, but my lack of car sucks at the moment

wow, you are good at the research :jamie: thanks :D

dude, if someone offered me a million bucks for a ke70, there would be a sale, no two ways about it with a million dollars you could pay someone else to build THE phattest corolla in the world, and have plenty left over to daily drive something povo like a new bmw m5

the horn button is on the steering wheel. it works by earthing out through the steering column the horns themselves are on the front of the car, next to the radiator. each horn has a different tone, or should have

ouch i am curious as to the circumstances involved in that crash

alloy is about 40% lighter than steel. it's also 3 times as expensive, and about 1/3rd as malleable. so making an alloy floorpan with anywhere near the structural strength (due to folds) of the original item is going to be difficult, if not impossible. and unless you can do it yourself, very expensive where steel and alloy join, you are supposed to have the steel galvanised and the alloy coated to prevent contact corrosion. you also need to place some sort of physical non-metallic barrier in between the two metals. bmw use a titanium/zircon coating on the alloy, and an adhesive bonding agent as a barrier, where they join alloy and steel on their newer cars you could rivet it, but i think it would be better to bolt it. if the tolerances between the new floor and the body change due to flex, you'll probably just pop rivets out, whereas with high tensile threaded fasteners (aka: nuts and bolts) the fastening would be stronger, and you could tighten them up again or threadlock them for a stronger join. this would also make the whole thing alot more serviceable, if you do have corrosion issues in the future it really depends on the purpose of the car and what you want to achieve if you have a dedicated track-only racecar with no interior to worry about and a cage to maintain structural integrity, and you really do feel like this is the next stage of development, then it would probably cost alot but be worth it because it's all you can do and is the cheapest option available. given that you don't feel your car could beat an 11 second honda (which is probably up to a similar stage of development as a 9 second rwd car), i don't feel you are up to this stage yet if you just have a road-registered streetcar that you want to go quick in a straight line or around corners for fun, i agree with the others that you could take the large sum of money an alloy floorpan is going to cost you, and spend it better elsewhere (such as engine and driveline improvement or development of suspension, or better tyres) to achieve the same result good luck

shift into neutral. release clutch pedal. a crazy idea, but it just might work! :D

:D all of them are so good

no they're not. a coupe is a 2 door car with a fixed roof. a coupe is differentiated from a sedan in that a sedan has full height side glass to the top of the rear windscreen, a coupe's roofline and side glass taper down before the rear windscreen. look at a ke10 next to a ke15, or a ke20 next to a ke25 to see this in real life. notice 2 door ke30s are sedans. the term hardtop originated from convertibles with a removable fixed roof, however the term also incorporates fixed roof cars with no window frames, which apparently makes them look like a convertible. whilst you can have a hardtop with a b pillar, most body styles in this category are pillarless hardtops (eg: impala, xp falcon). the point that differentiates a pillarless hardtop from a coupe is the lack of window surrounds on the doors of any hardtop hence, the only hardtop in the corolla series is the ke35/55 pillarless shape. ke15s and 25s have windowframes on the door, and the aforementioned sloping roofline, so they are coupes :jamie:

i once had a ke30 with a 3 speed auto that would do awesome first gear burnouts. you could even get rotations in second on the grass, with a sigma wheel on one side!

there's a overrated grandpa-spec one that has been parked out the front of ballina bowls club most days of the week for as long as i can remember, certainly before i got into corollas i don't mind them, they're different, bit more unique than a 4 door sedan. i'd like to see one with a normal ke30 front end on it beats me why johnny rochester went to the trouble of importing levin front sheet metal from america for his fake "te37", he could have just bought a ke50 for a few hundred bucks ken & nikki have one of these at the moment, i'm not sure what they're doing with it, but ken reckons someone has already put a T series diff in it?

i think someone just got 0wned on carsales :D

not for a 4 door if it's really clean, i'd offer $1500 and pay $1750 max

holy crap mikey!!! get some anger management dude

only seam weld the front, you don't want to tighten the back up too much. you're better to stitch weld, so you can crack a few welds and they don't all crack the paint sounds interesting, if not pricey big race cams and turbos don't really go together, engines don't work that way. the best n/a cam we've found for a 4K/5K is a 25/65, and for forced induction the general consensus is not to go any bigger than a 20/60 a T28 is a big turbo for a 5K, i would say too big. angela in adelaide had a play with one for a while. she's now running a ball bearing HKS25/30 which is much better suited to the small motor get some quotes on rebuilding your engine with forgies, they're probably going to be custom pistons, or something else adapted to suit your block, which is going to cost you lots of money in labour seriously, K engines are good cheap fun but they're not that good. if i had the chance again, i would just spend the money on a 4A or CA or SR, something that's actually quick and powerful and reliable to start with. and has LOTS more potential airbags (pneumatic suspension) make your car high or low but they don't handle well, they make your car like a boat. juice (hydraulic suspension) is good for bouncing like in a dr dre videoclip, but again not for handling. that being said, if you want your car to be able to touch the ground, they're the way to go. i would personally love to see a custom show-quality corolla on bags anyone who gets serious with a rwd corolla and wants to drive it hard, usually gets ae86 steering arms, xt130 corona struts, has the struts shortened and made into height adjustables, with short stroke shocks and custom springs. you then have corona brakes on the front so your car stops better, or you can upgrade to the hilux/peugeot upgrade detailed on toymods. you'll need a better brake master cylinder as well. this has been gone over many many times, have a search around for it, there's even a 1g-gte ke30 in the latest issue of zoom with these brakes

last time i met stewart ford's sister, she was driving his other registered corolla - a stock ke10 with 1077cc 1K and 2 speed toyoglide i imagine it would be akin to driving a suzuki mighty boy - dangerously slow i never even noticed the link in my sig didn't work, thanks for pointing it out, fixed now!

i'm busy, can we do the 40th?

ta :jamie: i started compiling the old faq from posts people made on the oldcorollas yahoo group. it's a pain in the ass to update static html all the time, so i moved it over to here when nick got the rollaclub faq all up and happening

i sense much wheelspin

dude. if you have actually paid for 23 diffs in your car, don't you think you should have probably just saved up and bought one real proper unbreakable diff? perferably with lsd

ke3x/5x diffs are interchangeable as whole unit there are two different types of center, and the centers don't interchange between the two, nor do axles there are two types of drum brake, which do interchange

what does "head work" mean? what cam? if you're paying 200 bucks for a decent cam grind and a skim with angled seats and a tidy of the bowls and ports and chambers, no leaky guides, new springs and stem seals, then you're doing alright if he's going to give you a cam he's had on the shelf for 20 years and shave the old gasket surface off and give it back to you, then you're getting ripped off i replied to the rest in your other thread

dodgiest thread ever do not put sawdust or banana peel or mince in your diff it whines because it is worn, either the teeth aren't meshing as they should, or parts have worn inside and it needs shimming, or the bearings are old, or all of the above. you're looking at about 4-600 bucks to have it professionally rebuilt, or you could just get another old diff from the wreckers for a hundred bucks or so you can overfill with oil to quieten it down a bit, this is good for reliability around big sweeping corners too. you can also get oil additives like "lucas oil stabiliser" which are just a really thick oil that sticks to the gears and takes up a bit of the slack works well in diffs, makes gearboxes a bit hard to shift when they're cold

sweet. the dude i bought my ke25 off said he once owned a ke30 with an L20B in it, he reckoned it totally hauled ass :jamie:

dunno about the tail lights and the wheels, but that paint job is OFF THE HOOK :paw: :lol: :jamie: