Super Jamie

you compared the voltage from your old bosch scorcher and a 5k elec dizzy once, didnt you?

if it's not too much trouble, could one of you ke70 owners please measure the following in millimetres? horizontal distance between brake pedal to accelerator pedal vertical distance between top of brake pedal and top of accelerator pedal distance from base of accelerator pedal to floor, following slant of accelerator while at rest thanks ;) dodgy picture provided with color coding :harhar:

you wouldn't be the first to install a clutch backwards, nor the last and it's a corolla, of course it's worth the effort :harhar: good luck

or around the wrong way?

ahhh you cursed yourself, always happens! :harhar: good luck! before you tear the box out, maybe just rock it back and forward in gear, shift 1st 2nd 3rd 4th a few times, see if you can get it to unjam

clutch/flywheel/pressureplate are different between K and 3K, i can't remember if the bolt pattern on the crank is different, but the flywheels are different weights, and the ke10/k4 driven plate is smaller and has two bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel, instead of the later model three bolt plate given these differences, it may be that the flywheels have different teeth? though i wouldn't have thought so dumb question, but is it in neutral? maybe jack the back up and try get the tailshaft to spin, sounds to me like the gearbox has jammed or is just being fussy

yes, ke36 is of the same model range as ke30 2- and 4-door sedans, and the ke35 2-door hardtop. 3k engine, basic emissions, jap diff, unboltable radiator support panel, sumitomo calipers, little drums, early two-piece dash, etc etc ke36 is the code for both 4 door wagons (which use 4 door sedan doors) and 2 door panelvans (which use 2 door sedan doors), some panelvans have windows, some have factory sheetmetal the later model ones are called ke38, and are akin to ke55 4 door sedans and 2 door hardtops. i haven't heard of a ke38 panelvan, only 4 door wagons i haven't studied them in great detail, but at a guess, i would say 38s have 4k engine, borg warner diff, spaghetti emissions, welded on radiator support, girlock calipers, bigger drums, later one-piece dash, etc etc. all the things that make a ke55 other interesting differences in the ke3x panelvan/wagons include: rubber floor mat instead of carpet (panelvan only) factory passenger side mirror different leaf pack with load-bearing leaf different rear shocks 4.5 ratio diff center (i think ke36 only) different floorpan to sedan/hardtop (so exhausts don't bolt across)

what on earth does he intend to do with it? a mate of a mate around here has a v8 hilux as well, a green trayback which is a former summernats burnout comp winner. now running an AU windsor with 13:1 compression and 300+ degree cams

in all honesty, if you're making any sort of power out of the engine, i'd be inclined to replace the unis anyway. having a front universal snap means your car does a pole vault, generally with disastrous results. it would suck to write your car off because of some 20 dollar bearings the part number for jap unis is K5A517

use http://www.rollaclub.com/upload/ then include the picture between [ img ] tags in your post

hurry up and get your greens and opens then :thumbsup: 12 points to lose is alot handier than 4, trust me

i don't know, i've never heard of a corolla panelvan either on hold on, yes i have, i own one! and look, here's another!!

it would not be the style of visual modification i would choose for my vehicle, nor would i consider attractive or fitting on any other vehicle (ie: it looks like shit)

buy an s13 frontcut with gearbox correct me if i'm wrong, but you'll also need to wait 2+ years until you get off your Ps until you can own and drive a ca18det-powered corolla?

there isn't 13B turbo, because it's illegal the biggest you can stick in a KE3x/5x in nsw is a naturally aspirated 12A

a tad lame? totally lame!

for prices, buy zoom or fast fours and look at importer ads when i was thinking about it, i was going to do CA, because it would be cheaper and certainly fast enough in a little light corolla. i think either is going to be a fairly bloody quick car for you

haha, imagine me in that job if it didn't look like it was from the 1960s, it would get the big thumbs down :thumbsup:

eagle F1s are an alright tyre, they're certainly not shit yokohama ac01 c-drives are better, but you get what you pay for

here are some more topics (with links to other topics) you may find useful http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=1889 - sr into ke55 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=3265 - sr20det vs 1g-gte

which is the "better" motor depends on who you talk to, and what your purpose is. this is just from what i have gathered, talking to many sources, it's a conversion i considered myself at one stage the CA18 seems to be constructed better, like it's is able to be held on the limit for longer without breaking. they're substantially cheaper, wether you buy a whole frontcut or just an engine. from what i have heard, changing of the intake lengths (when you install them in a non-S13 car) confuses the factory computer so they can have idle problems. this can be resolved by an aftermarket computer the SR20 is not as strongly built, hold one on the limiter and you will break it. they're also more expensive, so it really depends on the budget of your project. the SR makes more power, there's no denying it. the extra torque and capacity is noticeable, they're alot more driveable throughout the rev range when you're pushing them hard, unlike the CA which needs to be held at fairly high revs when you're driving the car on the limit you certainly can spend the money on a CA and get it to make more power than a stock SR, with little to no reduction in reliability. but it would probably work out about the same price to just put an SR in anyway. from what i have seen you can make about 200kw at the wheels out of an SR20DET with a stock bottom end before you start breaking things fairly regularly. i would expect probably 200hp at the wheels out of a CA18DET either way, it's a 900kg corolla, even a stock CA is going to make it absolutely haul ass and run 13s, never mind a modified 2L turbo motor with 200kw at the wheels and potential to run 11s one thing you may not have considered is a toyota 3S-GTE. there is no denying this is the king of 2 litre engines, in fact, i believe we've already had a thread about this. an SR with the best head porting money can buy, still only flows about 90% as well as a stock 3S-G head. that being said, they're not f@$king cheap at all, but you get what you pay for. there are also bugger all TRD parts for them, everything seems to be HKS or JE or other aftermarket tuning houses if you just want a cheap quick corolla, drop a CA in and be done with it. if you have experience driving powerful cars and you think you can actually put down 200kw at the treads, spend the extra cash and get an SR. if you really want to make the best car possible and money is no object, forget nissan altogether and buy yourself a real man's toyota motor, 3S-GTE or bust :thumbsup:

dude. nissan should hire you!

my best mate's a cabinet maker, he does antique-style furniture, inlaid with marquetry and stuff like that, he also restores things that look like firewood into these beautiful pieces of woodwork. it amazes me to watch him work see it all go together

the general consensus is that the new skyline sucks. everyone loves the rb26, and the tough styling that was prevalent throughout the r32-r34 range good news for r34 owners, at least they'll hold their value

how thin is the thinnest point to a water jacket or another bore in a stock 5k? i think i had about 4mm to water and 7mm to bore in my 4k, you wouldn't want to go much smaller than that, you'll probably get some harmonics up and crack the block above 7000rpm