Taz_Rx

:) and silvias are the new gemini!!

I was actually at work trying to get stuff done to start holiday on Monday gone. Missus was the one who couldn't wait, as much as I just wanted to leave straight away I had work to get done. She kept ringing me saying "what time will you be finished?". I wish you hadn't brought the car thing up, I had given it a thought to be honest. It was the missus car (and the biggest piece of shit I've even driven) being a Peugeot 405 Mi16.

You need to split up the main gear set shaft to get it out past the forks.

3lt petrol, not deisel? That much torque at 1100rpm is just rediculous. I bet you they've sacrificed a lot of top end power for that torque, bring me back to the agument of starving the 4k in the top end. Yes you would need to use a gasket on either side of the spacer, which just makes matters worse. IMHO you're stupid not to build a hybrid (3K block/4K head) when you have the option over a spacer. Free/cheap turbos are good,....... but free/cheap un-suitable turbos will just cost you power!!! :)

So you know what '3x little locators and 2x circlips' I'm talking about? Fun to try and re-assemble hey!? :y: Advance Knowledge is one thing...... advanced experience is a whole nother story! :)

:) Why do you need to change the pedal box when you already have a manual!? ...hand on, is the ke30 the parts donor for a KE55 manual conversion?

Or just use S13 (which chnages your availability issues) ones and spend 10 minutes with a file!!! :) http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=8849&st=150

Good luck!!! :y: Gearboxes aren't an easy thing to work on. I built 1x good K40 out of 2x farked ones once a few years back. Took me hours and hours and hours and its not something I'm overly keen on doing again..... hence the fact I haven't done a K50. With the K40 anyway, most of it had to come in and out through the back of the box. You don't need to remove the forks, you just need to dissasemble it in the correct way. You also need to be REALLY carefull when removing the main gear set where they slide over the syncros. Move then too far and you have 3x little locators pop out as well as a couple of circlips and then you in for a world of greif re-assembling each of those. My suggestion - fork out the couple of hundred dollars to have it done proffessionally. That way it should also have a waranty and you might have some hair left at the end of it!!! :)

Whats wrong...... The fact that they don't have a ratchet in them like stock hand brakes. Yes i know they have the little levers that flick over to lock them up, but this needs to be manually applied each time.... which gives you the opportunity to forget. Quick story - Know a guy who used to have one in a gemini (Mozza's old turbo gemmi for any Hobart guys). Lent it to a mate for the afternoon, who parked it outside another mates house and "applied the handbrake". Couple of hours later he left and walked outside, only to find the gemi was no longer parked where he left it. Looked down the road and found it at the bottom of the hill where it had knocked one of those big green hydro sub stations clean off its concrete footing....... as well as doing several thousand dollars worthy of damage to a very cool car. All the problem was was the fact he forgot to flip up the lock tab on the hydro handbrake. :) Speaking of Subarus, I have a set of suby calipers as a rear discs upgrade on my RX4. Nice big calipers and pad areas as they're from the front, but still have the levers for cable handbrakes. Highly recomend then for anybody looking at rear discs upgrades as most new cars all run small drums just for the hand brakes. :y:

Yes, 3k or 4k head on a 5k will drop the CR because of the 5k's dished pistons. Great for forced induction, mines a d-dish 5k and 3kbp head at around 8:1 CR. Unless its majorly warped, facing should only be around $50 tops. Last one I got faced was $44.

:y: 1, That turbo is WAY WAY too small. Are you sure its from a 1.5lt motor?? Looks more like a turbo from say a Smart car... yes they're 600 odd cc turbos. Oh and coming from a 335i would indicate its a 3.5 litre BMW (first 3 is the series, last 2x numbers are engine size - 318i is a 1.8lt 3 series). Can you try and clarify for us what car this is indeed off?? It looks even smaller than my old CT12 and that was rediculously small. 2, It doesn't work like this. I would dare say that with a 4k at 6000rpm, this turbo would be such a restriction on the exhaust flow of the motor that it wouldn't go much better than a stock 4k!!! Only time it would be any good would be the spool up, once thats over you might as well be NA again!!! 3, I hate to say it, but most of the FAQ turbo K series info its pretty incorrect. It was pretty obviously written by somebody that had never actually turbo'd a K motor, but collected info by others on it. I mean really, anybody that has done it would not say that they can't take any more than 10psi..... thats just when the fun really starts. :lolcry: I have been meaning to re-write the whole lot for quite some time and I can now cover xKTC's and xKTE's with my personal experience. I've actually just started a months holiday so maybe I can get it done soon. 4, Yes a 4k head on a 3k will drop the CR a bit, just like in reverse. This is a much better idea than using a thicker head gasket or spacer plate to drop the CR, as its also going to send your quench area all up the shit. 5, Fool! :) First thing to go will nearly always be the head gasket. After that expect some busted ring lands. 6, aym23q has already mentioned the carbon seal issue, and I highly doubt this turbo would already have them. Hence it want to use it budget for around $600-$1000 for a rebuild to get it up to draw through specs. He's also correct on the fact you can't use an intercooler. 7, and as for this...... Sure you might be able to get the motor for $1300, but you're not going to get it running in the car for less than say $5k!!!! :cool: Where as, build a turbo K and $1k is all you need. :bash:

Will add you to the list now mate. :)

Correction: Just got a phone call from Katie and he's COMING HOME TODAY!!!!! :)

Hopefully have him home by next week!! :) I start a months annual leave on Monday too so can't wait for that also.... finally get some work done on some cars. Anyway here's some comparo pics: This was taken on the 22nd of June.... And here he is in the same outfit last weekend.... Also now smashing down bottles.....

Nice manifold! :y: FYI, when you upload pics here it will automatically resize then into those black boxes. It sort of handy not to resize them before hand because if anybody wants to have a closer look they can click on the pic and zoom in. :)

No worries buddy, at least you've got the right carb already for blow-through. :)

Just found a pic I did for somebody else to try and explain the bolt spacings. You can see how close the fiat/alfa weber is to fitting on the stock rolla manifold.... Have fun! :)

Have you rang the transport department in your state? Straight from the horse mouth is always going to be better than here say or "...well my mate told me that..."! :)

You mean how pointless would it be!? 18rg are an old, heavy motor. You'd honestly be better off with say a sidedraft fed 4age.

You'll need to hook "on" 12v to the fuel solenoid, but don't worry about the choke. As for the fittimgs, if memory serves me: The one thats perpandicular to the carby is the fuel in, next to that is a return line, and the last one I don't think I blocked up at all - think it might have bean like a breather to the air filter or something.

Thanks mate. Suppose I better go register!! :)

This is about as stout as they get.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=31843 :P

You can't get an adapter for these, you need to slot the carb as I mentioned to use a 32/32 adapter. The first one of these that I used (in the turbo kit) I actually slotted the holes on the carb inward and put it straight on the stock K manifold!! :rolls: After having another look at it I think this one is actually off and Alfasud. They had the fuel solinoid and auto choke - which has been removed on this one. :P

BCRacing - you left a reply in the rollaclub 1/4 mile times thread, which I have now deleted as I didn't have all the info I needed to add you. If you want to reply in that thread again with your best ET, trap speed and 60' then I'll add you to the list. :P

Was the headgasket recently replaced? Sometimes they'll need re-adjustment after say 500km. As were they set to the right clearance while the engine was hot or cold? If you say set them to the hot clearnace while the engine was cold then they'll be all up the shit.