Taz_Rx

Here you go.... So did you get all of the bog out of the back end while doing the body work!? :P

Doing the same thing to me. I'll quickly upload them to my photobucket and link them. :P BTW, is that one of those Capa/Castlemain SC kits?

Yes just a normal 'change over' relay. Which should only have power on 87 OR 87a at one time (with power coming from 30). You need to check it first as some relays are made for driving lights and will power both 87 & 87a so you can just run a wire to each light. Are you serious slidwayz!? Those round things in the middle of your head are called eyes.... I suggest you use them. :P

K&N make only make that hat for the top of holleys, as you've probably found. BUT, they do make an adapter ring which bolt to the top of a 32/36 making it the same as the top of a holley so you can then bolt that hat straight on. :P Expect to pay around $400 for the whole lot though. If you've got a mate who's handy with a welder then you can make your own much cheaper.

This is a projects section mate. Go start a for sale thread in the appropiate section if you want to sell it. :P

Heard of a 3k making in the order of 170rwkw.......... on Avgas though. :P and this 3k made 244hp and ran a 12.7!!!!.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ke30-3k-4k-5k-turbo...%3A1%7C294%3A50

Here's the diagram I did last year: I put both pull to ground and powered trigger wiring on it. Have a look at NickZ's comments on page one about grounding pin 87. :P

Great to see you've done some research!! :) Looks like you've got your head around things. Either turbo isn't a bad chioce. Both have a few upgrades with the same flanges, T25 with heaps more because of bolt in nissan upgrades. Both are also a good size - I've had both a T25G and a TD04L on a 5k and they're both very responsive. To use either again off the bat and stick with it, I would probably choose the suby turbo as it doesn't have a ceramic wheel which would let go over 15psi like a T25/T28. :P

Yeah its been done before, with K manifolds as well as many others. :)

The 5k manifold would be better flowing if its a 4-2-1. 3k one is probably just 4-1. ....but yes it will fit and port sizes are the same. :dance:

Aren't 3k engine mounts different to 4/5k one though? Pretty sure the drivers side one won't bolt onto the motor! :dance: .....unless maybe you pack it out with some washers.

I'ver got a spare booster somewhere. Can't remember if its a 30 or 55 one. Will check and let you know. :dance:

Not 100% sure on the cross member, might be ok. I think you have the skills and experience to get around that though. :dance: Shift hole in KE1X's is even further forward than a 30-55, so you'r still going to have to do some trimming there. Tailshaft spline is also smaller, so you'll have to swap the uni and the end of the tailshaft. Should be able to use your leftovers from the wagon to do this if you still have them.

Nice score with the Elfin! :bash: You can bleed brakes by yourself: 1/4-1/3 fill a small bottle (600ml'ish) with some fresh fluid. Then attache your bleeding hose to the nipple, and make sure the other end is in the bottom of the bottle under the level of the fluid. Now loosen the nipple and get into the drivers seat. When you pump the pedel it will push out air as normal, but becasue the nipple is still open when you release the pedal fluid will be sucked back out of the bottle into the caliper. This is why you need to make sure the end of the hose is in the bottom of the bottle and you fill it with fresh fluid. :dance:

Well that oil cooler and filter does a lot yeah!! :dance: Oh and thats a TE37 if you didn't notice. :bash:

Better replace half of the electrics in your car then mate!!! :dance:

Club-K.co.nz/Forums is the place to go for all things starlet. :dance:

He means getting some recesses for the valves cut into the top of the piston. :dance:

There's a couple of us. You guys seem pretty self sufficent here anyway. :dance:

You could probably re-phrase that to 'The more aggressive cam you have, the more you need to increase compression.' :dance: Pretty sure 4ku's have higher comp than a 4kc already. Can somebody confirm this?

Could also be a lack of vacuum while its cold and the brake booster isn't giving you the assistance you're used to. Whats its like if you pull in the choke?.... if you have one.

So... did you knock a girl up and need a family car Jip!? :dance:

No you can use the turbo how it is, you just have to remove the vacuum solenoid and replace it with a normal boosted wastegate. In normal operation the VNT turbo lever is in the 'make boost' position when vacuum pulls the level towards the solenoid. As it make boost the vacuum (which comes from an electronic vacuum pump BTW as deisels don't really make vacuum) eases off and the level moves away from the solenoid to divert gases. Whe you swap it out for a wastegate - The gate will hold the level back at 'make boost' and then when pressure builds up it will move outwards, again diverting gases to control boost. Pretty much. Load on the engine is generated in many different ways, Not just through gearing and RPM. For example going up a hill will load your engine much more and help the turbo generate boost, even in 1st or 2nd. You really just need to do it and find out how it will perform. :dance:

Ofcourse they are. Starlets came with 3k's and 4'ks depending on age just like a corolla. :dance:

ZE pistons and rods? I'm not the greatest source of A series info, but aren't the 20v pistons and rods (I deffinately know the rods are) lighter than 16v ones to make them like the higher RPM!? Yes the ZE pistons would be a bit stronger for boost, but is this really going to help you in an NA motor!? :dance: