Taz_Rx

Regardless its a for sale thread in the wrong section. Please PM an administrator about commercial trading on this site. :P

Agreed, hence the deletion and lockage of this and the car sound thread. Since its a forsale item I'll leave the parts add for a mod/admin to deal with if they class this as a commercial trader.......and to make it easy for them.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=32987

My turbo '55 used to have a 2tg in it with a hydro clutch and no pedal box change. If you wanna drop that alternator back round to me I'll show you how it was done, not hard at all. :P

Well then i've got 70rwkw out an internally stock 4k! :P

That pretty much the type of weber used to use in my 4ktc setup, they like boost!!! I also currently have one on "dirt" too. Do you know exactly what this one came off? Normal weber adapter can be used, but you need to slot out 2x of the holes on the weber itself.

Do you know what they look lik inside Hiro??? Do the have the disc Ben has decribed or a "4 pointed" shaft like my external ignitor type? Given the "disc with slots in it" and the fact it has 3x wires it sort of sounds more like a CAS than an electric dizzy to me!!!! I have a custom made K series CAS at home.

Camtech 609 would also be around the same specs you're looking at. I have one in one fo my cars (NA) and its good mid range cam. Here's some vids of the cra its in at a grass motorkhana... http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/taz...rkhana/28-9-08/

Most likely, plus it has to be bolted to the crank in exactly the same place (can go in 6x different positions) that it was balanced with the crank etc.

^Correct, that why you always need to be truthful with them. Little off topic, but this is how seriously transport take stat decs - last year in Tassie a mother and son got taken to court for fraud because the mum signed a stat dec to take demerit points on a speeding fine for her son (we all do it, know somebody who has). They both got sent to jail for 12 months!!! :P

Yeah go with that in the mean time. If you want to turbo it later then get yourself a 5k bottom end and slap the 3kbp head on it as it will lower your CR. :P

5k.... schweet!! You want me to come round and have a look at it for you mate? I'll explain the basics of ignitors to you as I can't be bothered typing it. They're pretty much just a fast switching earthing relay.

x2 If you want some you're just going to have to cough up the Takumi tax!! I think this thread has run its course. :P

Oops I replied to the other thread, didn't see Dan had already replied to this one. I'll delete it in a sec. This was my reply there.... So you were pretty well on it Dan. PS I paid $8.50 at the same Bursons last time! :rolls:

That would most likely be at the flywheel. :P Did you play with the mixture to try and git it running a bit more stoich in the top end?

Head work is more so a matter of how much do you want to spend!!! By the sounds of it you can got pretty hard on it because of the block its going on. Just the usual stuff like port and polish inlet ports, 4k etc exhaust ports are tiny so open them up a bit to, CC the head, bigger valves, 3+ angle valve grind etc etc. As for skimming it you really need to work out your CR and see weather its really required. As for the gasket, whats the diametre of the 5k gasket vs the 4a pistons? Engines don't really come out of balance, unless something like a harmonic balancer is playing silly buggers. There's a couple of main areas of balancing motors. Firstly weight matching things like rods and piston, so there isn't say 1 piston that slightly heavier putting more load on one part of the crank. Then you've got balancing the rotating assemble. I plan on doing this when I finally get around to rebuilding another 5k I have. Going to balance everything from the gilmer drive pulley>crank>flywheel>pressure plate. The thing you would want to watch out for is weather this engine has been balanced with a certain FW on it! Did you get one with the motor?

Wouldn't want to be since he's already got a warn level for peddling! You've been given answers to your questions, what more do you want to know........ how to use the search button maybe!?

If you keep closing them up until it stops miss-firing then its not too far apart. This is just an easy wayto get a nice fat spark on a worked motor, like what anastasios has.

60lt rings a bell.

Won't what bugger the coil?

Discussion for this thread has been split to here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=11629 Just updated the list with all the times people have left times for. If you have a time you'd like to have added to the list, make a reply post here with your vehicle & engine, ET, Trap speed and 60ft time. I'll then add it to the list and delete the reply post. I have also just deleted the "Non members rides" as this just wasn't applicable to this site.

As long as your not a little weedy kid so should be able to just lay under the car and lift it out!! One hand at the tailshaft end, one under the bellhousing, lift up a little and pull back. K40's weigh bugger all, and I can normally just do the reverse of the above to re-fit. :lolcry:

:lolcry: .....

Supposed to be about .8mm Just open them up as big as you can so it still runs, then slowly close them up until it stops missing. That'll give you the fattest spark you can have. :lolcry:

f@$k off!!!! :lolcry: I just sent 30kg (had to put it in 2x boxes under 20kg) to SA via Auspost and it cost $80!!!! Grrrr Never heard of e-go but will be following up now! :P

fark off, I and many others have run 20+psi on stock 4k's. :lolcry: