Taz_Rx

Because mine has both the inlet and outlet on the passengers side I've just used both of the spots ryan is talking about above. Goes out through the hole at the end of the chassis rail and back in through where the horn was. Bare in mind mine is only 2" piping though. 2.5-3" will need some rad support panel grinder love. :lolcry:

Piccie here... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=6220 As Coln said just find yourself a 3kb twin manifold and use 2x adapter plates. 36/36 webers would need some serious down jetting though.

Sort of an idea I was toying with..... Why not just get another rolla sway bar, cut the ends off it (where it attaches to the chassis) and then use some clamps to hold it onto the existing one. Now the bit I was interested in - If you clamp it all the way around the sway bar then you'll nearly have twice the stiffness. However if you bring the last clamps (up at the ends you cut off) back down the car towards the diff your basically reducing the seconds swaybars effectiveness giving you an adjustable sway bar system!! :lolcry: I'll draw a panit pic if you don't know what I'm trying to say.

Ah that's where Casey's motor went. Best thing I think you can do with the motor is to start saving your pennies for some dyno tuning..... and I'm talking at least $500. I'm sure it'll go really well once thats done though. ...and if it turns out to be less than $500 you can go shopping. :no2:

:no2: yes the grease method is agricultural,...... but you might be supprised just how many professional workshops use it. Wet news paper/paper towel etc also works pretty well if you don't have any grease. And for anybody who has a dead K40 or K50 laying around - Pull the input spline out of it to use as a clutch locating tool. this is also (obviously) the perfecty diametre for compressing the grease. :y:

Yeah reduction are about $200 TRADE PRICE from ashdown ingrams. Part number is RX421S IIRC and they're listed for 4k-j and 5k-j. :no2:

3rd'd And don't be a sook with the bolts. Just remember lefty loosey and you'll be right. Its not like removing bolts from the exhaust where they get to over 100*C every day and snap 99% of the time. Not even hard to source a new thermostat housing...... I have a couple you can have for a postage cost. :no2:

Yeah I get what you're saying..... but they're both engines that never came with factory turbos. I just think it was hilarious that this commo only made 7kw more when it has over 2.5 times the capacity. :no2:

150% of madrollas torque for 254% of the capacity!!! :no2:

hahaha I know its a bit less boost, but its over twice the engine size...... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=31843 ....but you made 7rwkw more than this 5k!!! :no2:

He's now been out of hospital for 4 weeks - I've just returned from 4 weeks 'off work'..... I'm not going to say '4 weeks holiodays'! :y: :no2: Last week we did spend a nearly a week back in hospital though to get some herniers fixed, which are common in premmies, espeacially boys. Thats all fixed now though and he's well on the mend. He also got to meet his great grandmother last week, think she like it more than him though. :wink:

This is why I said "depending on how much you want to spend...." as you would probably be looking at around $600-$800 for everything I reckon. Not cheap considering you should be able to get a toyoglide or GM 3 speed basically for free, but much much stronger.

Yes they bolt straight up to the back of any K motor. You would just need to use a 7k flex-plate and torque converter. :P

I've got RS5's on my mazda. With the spacer plates I just bought for my rolla I can now also put them on that.... so you just gave me more motivation to do it! :P

1, The "main" number, being the "main jet" is the size of the FUEL jet. 2, "air" is just an "air correction jet". 3, Neither combos are going to make you run "richer" if they are appropiately matched and tuned. 4, ......so to answer the question I think you're trying to ask: (130 main- 160 air) is going to PUT MORE FUEL IN YOUR ENGINE. :P

Depending on how much you want to spend, for a much newer gearbox you could always use an auto box from a 7kc/e townace. Because they have the little bonnets..... .....They actually have a normal gearbox layout instead of a column/dash shift auto like most other vans. The 7k gearboxes are much stronger than any other KE gearbox, the manual ones are basically a W56! I'm actually about to build a similar project to yours (K motor in a sierra chassis) and as I want a manual I'm using a K-W bellhousing and W50 gearbox and I don't trust a K40/50 to turn 4 wheels!! :P

Exactly. Save the $ difference ever time you change your plugs and buy an MSD 6A instead. That would probably give you a cleaner burn anyway. :lol:

I'm not 100% on this but going to make an educated guess - Stock 4k plugs are "BP5EY" and the "5" is the heat rating. If the number you've provided is a NKG part number that I think its safe to say they are also a "5". To run a colder plug (say for an engine with some work done to it) you need to go up to a 6 or maybe 7. See if you can get a plug with as colse a part number to that you gave, but just with a 6 instead of a 5.

That bottom one looks the best as it has a pressed metal ring around the exhauist ports. Should be just as good as a permaseal EM30 anyway! :lol:

Howdy, Don't know if you want to buy a new hoist or not, but they do come up every now and then on ebay when workshops do a refit/reno or close down. Might be worth keeping an eye on there. Can also find other "ultimate workshop" items on there like tyre fitting machines, lathes etc etc. :lol:

Just use some stock toyota D dish piston, with a 3k or 4k head. This'll drop your CR to around 8:1 and would be fine on 15psi. :)

And its reason like that why Taz_rx doesn't have an msn account!!! :)

That turbo would probably be a lot more suitable. :y: General rule of thumb with deisel turbos on a petrol motor is you can halve the capacity because the petrol motor does twice the RPM. This also answers your bottom question too. VNT "wastegates" aren't actually a wastegate, they are a vacuum operated solenoid which works completely didfferent to a wastegate. Was only a couple of weeks ago that I explained how these work in a thread in the general mechanical section. See if you can find it cause I can't be bothered re-typing it again. If you're lucky I'll find you a link soon. :)

...on a 5k maybe. And it would go a lot better (once you got boost) than just the one. I nearly did a twin turbo 4k with 2x CT12's. Thats how small they were. :)

Try it if you want, but don't be suprised if it goes like shite. Yeah it'll boost quick, but thats all it would be any good for. I currently have a T25G (2lt SR20 turbo) and I'm pretty over how its too small for my 5k. Also had a 2lt WRX turbo which was near perfect size for a 4k. There's a little more to it than just saying its only 300cc off what it was on. Out of interest, whats the peak power RPM of said twin turbo BMW?