Taz_Rx

Don't bother swapping pedal boxes just for a hydro clutch, I personally think its a waste of time and sanity as its not an easy job. Just drill a hole in the stock clutch pedal and attache the hydro rod to it like Rob did in my car.

Use a 5k head gasket, not a 4k one. Recommend a genuine toyota one too. Not cheap at around $80 but deffinately the best you can get. :hmm:

I just wouldn't be taking the risk if I was you mate. Do you mean the cross over pipe was getting hot, or the engine was running hot - ie did the temp guage actually go up? If it was the latter then I think you just have an undersized radiator, and the intercooler is just a "band-aid" fix for that. You could always just invest in a blow-through carby and change the setup. Then you can keep the cooler, and add a BOV.

Worth a watch..... They can test turbos up to 250,000rpm!!!

Put it this way, I'm confident enough to write my "I told you so" now!!! :) You're talking about something that spins in the order of up to 100,000rpm. How much inertia will 1g have at that speed!? 2x things are likely to happen: 1, It lets go big time and snaps a shaft etc. 2, It'll flog out your brand new bearings and seals causing play, which causes wheels to touch housings, which casues wear and a loss of compression, which altimately gives you a completely f@$ked turbo. Ok you've got the opinion of somebody "fairly experienced with turbos". PLEASE do yourself a favour and ring somebody who WORKS ON TURBOS like: Statewide Turbo's 182 Stoney Rise Road Devonport, TAS, 7310 Phone / Fax 03 64249611 .....And ask them what they think about it. They are official Garrett distributors BTW. :hmm:

No it won't overheat. You might need to need pull a little bit of timing out, but not heaps. Do you even have a bonnet scoop over the cooler? cause if not its not doing anything anyway!! Look that's how it is, do you want to run the risk of doing some serious damage in your engine bay!? Its only matter of tiome before somethig goes wrong....... but hey, what would I know! :hmm:

You work on traffic lights and stuff don't you? And care to ellaborate on the cake Dan?

:) 1 7/8" - 2" MAX. 2.5" will give you a reduction in power and the sound of an excel. :hmm:

:hmm: Does your mechanic work out of a shed made of sticks and straw!!!?? :)

Ah no, it not the wire from the dizzy then. Its either the "on" or "start" power, but from memory its the "on". If you get 12v (11.9 is close enough) with the key on "on" then this goes to the ballast resistor. If you get 12v while having the key on "start" the it goes directly to the + side of the coil. This enables the coil to run at 12v to assist starting, but then runs at 6v (through the ballast resistor) the rest of the time while the engine is running.

It would work chumps, no doubt about that.......... Its just a ticking time bomb though!!!!! charged kid - remove the intercoller IMMEDIATELY!!!!!!! ....did I make that attention grabbing enough!? Why (again :hmm:) - Because you're running a draw-through setup you're currently pumping your intercooler fuel of a perfectly mixed combination of fuel and air...... ready for combustion. If you happen to have a back fire, it will travel up the inlet manifold and cross over pipe and into the intercooler.... then bad things happen...... Or you might just 'blow the welds on your intake'. :)

I have one of the reduction starters and its basically the same size as the normal ones. The solenoid is bigger, but the motor is a bit smaller. You can buy then new from Ashdown Ingrams for around $200 TRADE price. Part number is something like RX421S IIRC. When I bouight mine we weren't 100% sure it would fit (under a turbo exhaust manifold) and the guy was good enough to let me take it for a trial fit, just said don't turn the key its your not 100%. As soon as the gear on the starter hits the ring gear they won't take any returns. So yeah grab one and see if they're happy to do the same. :hmm:

KM36 :wink:

Oh der, it the same with a '55 now I think about it, you still need to open the bonnet to remove the grill. Might also be worth having a prod around with a bent coat-hanger (like trying to break into a car) to see if you can hook the latch through the grill. :wink:

Yes everything you need to make the 5k run can be swapped over from the 4k.

You do realise that re-building a turbo isn't just a matter of whacking in the new seals and bolt it back together? It needs to be professionally balanced.

Most 4k's also had doubles. Could try to find one for under $50 just for parts. Alternatively start a wanted to buy add and I'm sure somebody here will have one. You can also get "Rollmaster" adjustable double row pulleys and chains. I have one sitting at home for a future build.

Why you have to go a ruin a perfectly good relationship!? Nah JK mate, congrats.

Pull the grill out and you should be able to flick the latch with a screw driver etc.

Yes you can use it, but you need to find out if it is a GT40 or a GT40R, bit hard when the sticker is ripped off. If its a GT40R then ther only difference is you need to keep you ballast resistor.

It comes from the little terminal on the side of the dizzy yeah? If so it goes to the negative side of the coil.

Agreed. If you want a supercharged 60's designed motor then just go a 5kzc!! Won't be much slower than the 202, just a bit less torque..... and best of all it just sit on the stock engine mounts. :wink:

My stock 7k just have a K50 behind it. ...but yeah I don't trust that. Thats why I have a K-W50 sitting there ready for my next project. :D

I think your best bet is to pull out a tape measure and check your PCD. :D "Borg warner diff" doesn't tell us a lot. If the RA struts as unmodified then they would have 4x114.3 PCD. Stock KE20 PCD is 4x110, so if you discover it is still stock I suggest going shopping on Ausrotary. :D What motor is in it BTW?

I think a T2 would be too small for even a 3k. T25 would be about perfect, if its a T25G then you might even feel a bit restricted in the top end. The 170kw 3k I mentioned above made around 140rwkw on PULP and 19psi. Was a Draw through setup too.