Taz_Rx

Your cam is like 270* or something isn't it? You will need to have a slightly bigger valve clearnce for these, maybe chuck an extra 10-15% in. Also remeber that most listed valve clearnaces are a HOT setting.

Yes as its pressurising to ~80PSI, probably more in your case now! Not hard to make one though if you get yourself some gasket paper - then you can do you water pump as well. IMHO the only time an 80 amp alt is really required is if you say had a 2000+watt RMS ICE system and your capacitor(s) still can't keep up. :D

Do some research on fitting a T18 T series diff to a ke70 :D

As long as you don't put a 2 1/4" exhaust on it!!! Seriously! :D Exhaust's aren't just a matter of 'biggest is best', espeacially with a naturally aspirated engine. An adequate sized exhaust will provide the required back-pressure that the engine needs to run properly. Like I said about, get a 1 7/8" or 2" MAX. This will actually inprove performance not hamper it. You're talking about a ~40rwkw setup here, I have a 100+rwkw TURBO'd 5k and I only have a 2.5" system which is fine, but being turbo its s little different.

So it would not spin at idle, but give the throttle a blip and away she'd spool? That sounds more like a symptom of knackered bearings, but you're changing those. Let us know what its like after the re-build. My T25G basically mymics what the engine is doing: Try and start the car - turbo start spinning Idle - Turbo "idles" quick enough that you can't see any individual blades increase engine RPM - turbo RPM increases. As for balancing thing - I can't make you do anything you don't want to, but I think what you're planning is just ludicrous, and will ultimately be a waste of money (on the turbo and re-build kit). Did you ring the guy in Devonport? You don't need to tell him who you are, I've rang him a couple of times recently and he's always happy to help. I'll quickly explain one more thing to you. The gap between the compressor wheel and front housing is sort of like that between a piston and the bore it runs it, except with no piston rings. If the wheel touches the housing (though play or un-balance) it will grind down both surfaces like this..... Once this happen you will loose "compression" in the turbo just like severly worn rings. The compressor will still be making pressure, it'll just struggle to hold it past the front cover as it'll be leaking through the newly created gap. Will you still get boost - Yes, because this is governed by the waste gate (which is oblivious to your wheel-housing issue) and will still control boost to the same pressure. The turbo itself is just going have to work twice as hard as half the pressure it makes is leaking back out the front cover!!

Yawn!

:D I'll lock this now to save you some flamage!!

I don't quite know what happened to your other thread! :D I did answer a couple of these questions in that. Oil feed - Just T piece it out of the oil pressure switch. Click on "Tar" in my sig and there is a pick of this in the first post or 2. Carby - I used to use a DTMR-A weber off a fiat 128, X19 would have the same carb though. As for you fuel setup, I did a how to for carby turbo setups here... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=17418 :D

Just be on your toe. Weldies will give you great oversteer....... but also give you shocking understeer. When driving it in the wet (and not trying to be a drift king) just go into corners a bit slower than you normally would.

XT130 twin pots can't be compared to FC 4 pots :lol: its really another complete step up. I have some 4 pots in the front of my RX4, as well as very decent sized rear discs (actually the front calipers from an old subaru which had hand brake on the front) and after going for a half decent cruise last week I am in love "wo" as much as "go" now. :lol: Now looking at Brembos for "tar" :lol: Missus - "Look babe, I understand you like your new brakes,.......but can you please settle down a little bit"!? :D

I hit a gutter sideways once and bent an axle...... was about 60+kmph though. If you haven't damaged a wheel though then I doubt you would have bent an axle. I smashed an alloy jellybean in the process of bending the axle. ...hell I hit the gutter so hard the the whole diff moved far enough to leave some small dents in the trans tunnel, but then returned to its normal position. It was also hard enough for my passengers BEANIE to come off his head!!!!

".....Homer stop picking at your head" "Ohhhh, but I taste so goooood!" :D

Good idea in theory, BUT: The ballast resistor only powers the coil when the key returns to the "on" position. Nickyboy can't get his engine to fire, let alone start so the ballast resistor would never be powering the coil!!! On the other hand, check the other wire to the + side of the coil. You might not have 12v "start" power!

Your not wasting our time mate, we're always happy to help..... Its just a bit hard in this instance. Like you said, you know basically nothing about cars. By next week I reckon you would have learnt a little bit more. :D

Like maybe don't attache the earth clip directly to a bearing. They slip off pretty easy anyway so maybe remove the so they don't get covered in slag, same thing with the crown wheel, don't be lazy and remove it. As for the welding the more you do the stronger it will be. Weld sun gear to sun gear, and sun gear to carrier, even a steel plate jammed into the sun gear and welded in place is good.

Look mate I'm not having a go you or anything, BUT... You cannot provide accurate enough information for us to try and diagnose your problem. What you're describing could be any matter of thinks from a blow head gsket to you forgetting to put fuel in it!!! For this reason may I suggest you maybe take the car to a mechanic. He can then accurately assess the problem (which we are struggling to do through your eyes) and fix it.... Or you can then tell us whats wrong and we can tell YOU how to fix it. But if you can't work out whats wrong with it then you might struggle to fix it! Don't take offence. :hmm:

Both indenticle. Everything you have done should have worked in theory, but for some reason hasn't. Haven't really got an ideas for you either. Maybe the throw out bearing retainer isn't sitting in the fork properly! :hmm: Or the fork might have popped off its pivot.

The threaded part of the spark plug needs to be earthed, as this is normally screwed into the head. Just sit the spark plug up on top of the rocker cover (connected to a lead) and you should be able to see the spark while turning the engine over.

Nope that backing plate is sealed already. Just get yourself a proper water pump gasket, can be had from Bursons etc for a couple of bux. :hmm:

Checked you actually have spark by removing a spark plug, re-fitting into a spark plug lead and earthing on the engine?

Yes but not much. The main beneifit to be had (over a solid fan) is that this electrical load is only applied when the engine gets hot and triggers the fan to turn on. When I removed the solid fan from my 13bbp you could actually notice slightly more power at the wheels due to there being no fan mechanical load. This also explains why a lot of race cars don't run alternators. :hmm:

Did you reconnect the wire between the dizzy and the negative side of the coil? If you did you won't ever get spark!!

Never really played with a clutch fan. Have always just removed the engine fans and replaced with thermos.

Just use the same pump, thermostat etc that you were using. Basically just remove all of the ancilaries from the 4k and bolt them onto the 5k. Otherwise you start having issue with things like the pump-thermo little hose. Blade size doesn't really matter, they both pump water! As for the clutch fan - engine fans put mechanical load on the motor. If you can take this load off the motor when the fan is not required by using a clutch then you'll get a poofteenth more power at the wheels. A solid fan however is always sucking that power from the motor. Thermo fans obviously put no mechanical load on the engine, but they do put electrical load on the alternator when they kick in. Thats why the revs will drop just slightly when it turns on.

And what have you done about your fuel system? How many PSI of fuel pressure? RRFPR? :hmm: