Taz_Rx

Eww!! That is most definately a K50 from a ke70 as Irokin said. Identifiable by the shifter position, and also they way the cross member bolts on. BUT ITS HAD THE INTERGRATED BH CUT OFF!!! Can see where they've cut through the clutch fork hole. Used an adapter plate of some sort (shiny strip), which I would hope is mounted a little bit better than just the 4 bolts that hold the guide for the TOB retainer! :dance:

Credit where credit is do.....Some things about the car are cool, as a whole its not. Grass etching is cool as previously mentioned. They have done a good job molding the skirts in, although they still look shit. General attention to details is good......just misguided. And Kudos to the guy for dedicating the car to fallen comrades. :dance:

Do drop the soap!! JK dude. :dance:

Yep there the ones I was talking about Jono. Look how straight the ring gear is!!! Just to clarify the differences in flywheels between models..... All K flywheels have the same bolt pattern on the back of the crank from K - 7K. K - 4K all use a 180mm clutch plate (even if the GB input spline is smaller) so are all interchangable. I am not sure on weight differences between them however. 5K from KM20 liteace van uses a 200mm clutch plate, so the flywheel has a bigger contact area. These Flywheels can be used to fit a K-T50 (with T18 clutch kit), or a K-W50 (with km20 clutch kit), but there is no clutch available to use them with a K40 or K50. KR42R Townace 7K's have a 215mm clutch plate/flywheel. These fly wheels can only be used with a K-W50 or the K-W56 from the townace, both using the KR42R clutch kit.

:dance: Remember seeing pictures of a flywheel that let go on an R33 gtst. Had a pressed on ring gear that straightened out and went through the engine bay like a steel whip!! Wasn't pretty. That one of the reasons I like the cast ring gear on a K flywheel. :yes:

It was boggy because it had low compression. Bet it was responsive as still though? Did you get the 4kc head skimmed befor you put it on the 4ku? You probably had a blown head gasket!!

Where's the ring gear!?

Just get something like this... http://mscn.com.au/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=479 ...put that in the spot you want to put it, and go somewhere like an exhaust shop to bend you up a steel pipe to join the filler and tank. Just use some rubber at each end to join, but then as you know, you'll have to be selective in the size of the pipe and the rubber. Might even meed you need to mod the filler neck on the tank somehow.

Was it you who had the turbz and flange it was attached to drop off the manifold OWANF? Was gunna try and find the pics of it, but didn't know where to start. Chuck it up if it was you. :)

Just use paint to scale them down. :)

Sorry Shades we don't want to see any pics of Rima (the midget) from big brother!!! :) :hmm:

Yeah would never touch a stainless turbo manifold, steam pipe FTW. Thread was more so just about the port spacing. A proper turbo manifold will always be better than a J pipe. :) Better response, less restrictive, and hence better flow and velocity. J pipes are a good alternative price wise, but can't compete with a proper manifold when it come to performance.

Found this on ebay.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Toyota-Celica-2T-3T...1QQcmdZViewItem If you look at the welds on the mounting flange to the head in the first pic, they look pretty ordinary compared to the other welds. Anyway, what I'm thinking is that this manifold was orinigally made for an SR or CA, then had the flange cut off it and a T series one welded on!! So for anybody interested in turboing a T series motor, it looks like they have the same exhaust port spacings as a Nissan motor! Heres an SR one..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SR20DET-TURBO-EXHAU...1QQcmdZViewItem

Ah fair enough. was just a bit confused as even top fuel dragsters don't run anywere near 54mm hose. Just check to turbosmart website for you for silicone... http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=40 And you're in much the same boat! Only 50mm (2") and 57mm (2.25"). Fuel cells go on ebay cheap sometime!!! :)

Might have just meant it could do with a new set of rings. :)

Why do you need FUEL hose that big? You might have to look at silicone intercooler hoses with molded bends!

How I said is how its been with every mazda carby I've played with, as well as my old model plane motors. Don't know if it differs from carb to carb. If you wind it out and the rpm rises its because you're leaning the mixture, not because you're adding more fuel.

Swap the motors in the mean time!! :hmm: Few guy on here have had stock 4ku's and say they go a fair bit harder than an ADM 4kc. I you want to use the original 4kc head, put it on the 4ku block with the 4kc solid lifters and rocker gear, and you have a low comp motor ready for some boosted fun!! :)

Tell me about it! Should have seen how many were around the mountains of NZ! I swear every time I had to pull over and fit chains to the rental Kia, at least one of these went past every time. :hmm: :)

http://rocketindustries.com.au/search.php?brand=MSD :)

I also developed quite a soft spot for these while in NZ last year....and luckily so did the missus!! :) Think its pretty safe to say one of these will be our future family wagon....with the credentials for me to have some fun in!!

ke30 diff in Launy.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Toyota-Corrolla-KE3...1QQcmdZViewItem

So this thing has your old motor combo Darren?

Only thing I'm really waiting on now is Sheldon to send me this other flywheel. Got cash for clutch now and have ordered new speedflow stuff for the oil drain. Won't be any dilly dally getting it back on the road. And our drags season start back up soon! :)

:) That is all.