demuire

Xany: Grab the KE55 tailshaft out of the KE55 and you'll be sweet. If I'm not mistaken it's just the umm... flange bolt pattern thingy that isn't the same between the diff. And then you'll also have the bigger drums off the KE55 (yay).

If I'm not mistaken, should bolt in except for tailshaft.

I got a music DVD :ninja: And a photo.

Merry Christmas!

BUT it is Proflex... :ninja:

I have le Koni's on the front of the "new" car :ninja: And KYB's on the back for now... Pinky's got KYB's on the front and dodgy clapped out Munroe's on the back. Rob: Proflex... surely $3K must be well worth the money :) Oh BTW, did you manage to pick up the stuff from Dave and Nikki? If so, I'll come round one evening maybe this week (if you're free) and get you some cash :) Yay, KE35 fuel system is almost finished. Soon seals go back in, then front suspension, then lights, windows and other little trim and then the fun job of wiring :)

Shocks: For the budget conscious I would only really go with KYB, and if you REALLY can't afford those then go with Munroe. But really, for the little more you pay for KYB's, you get a LOT more shock. If you afford them then by all means go with Koni's, Bilsteins, Proflex (mmm) etc but yes, you certainly pay for them...

Umm... yes I suppose in theory that is true, if you used flat top pistons in a dish top engine you'd probably get higher compression - don't know if this is possible though. I'm sure I once knew, but I've forgotten and I wasn't paying much attention anyhow because I knew I was going the 4AG train of thought...

The heads are different from memory to compensate, I don't think compression was changed. I think the heads were shorter? You can tell them apart from the PCV valve on the back of the tappet cover (I think the dished piston one had plastic valves, others have rubber ones?) and the dished ones have a sticker on them about the spark plugs (if it is still there). Something like that...

Umm, some of the later model 4K-C's had dished pistons. Apart from that I know the airbox is different, chances are the KE70 will have more emissions stuff... But yea apart from that no idea.

Heh... I go okay... :)

2 new rear suspensions? Umm... you mean like shocks? Or springs? Or bushes? Or...?

suppies?

Heh, vinyl paint - fun stuff :)

Gawd what have I started... :)

Grim has pretty much covered it. But a few points to add (that probably overlap with what Grim has said): Crossmember: use the AE71 crossmember, it's bolt in and then you can pretty much bolt the 4AGE in. Failing that it's not hard to cut and shut the original crossmember. EFI stuff: You'll need to make a new line (5/16) for fuel to engine, use the existing fuel line as a return. Vapour line stays the same. You might want to look into getting a surge tank, but is not essential. You'll need a high pressure pump, look into VL's or similar cars that had external pumps. If you run a surge you'll need a low pressure pump as well. Exhaust: you *could* use the existing setup, but depending on what you have now it might be a little too small. Most people recommend 2" mandrel or 2.25" press. The small port (100kW) 4AGE is originally a FWD motor, you'll need a RWD exhaust manifold. I have a set for sale, 4-2-1 extractors with a plug for the EGO (somthing a lot of other extractors I've seen don't have) Gearbox: You'll need a T50, you'd be looking for one out of an AE71 or AE86. Then you need clutch slave and master, you can use the ones out of the above cars. You can use the existing flywheel/clutch out of the 100kW. Engine: The engine is originally FWD, so everything is the wrong way around. You can go the big adventure and source a RWD water pump etc and convert it to a RWD engine, or you can just run lots of pipes. Up to you. Intake manifold you can't really run the RWD manifold (well you *could*, but I wouldn't) because it had TVIS and was a sligthly different design - probably not suitable for the small port. Get the original small port manifold cut and shut, if in doubt give Anthony Kellam a call, he can help you out. You can use your existing 4AGE starter motor as well. Wiring: Have fun. Shouldn't be too hard, just time consuming. Try to get a complete loom, makes life easier. Cost: Depends really. For a guide I got my engine for $800, this included new seals, timing belt and the intake manifold cut and shut. Steel fuel line is a few bucks a meter, no big deal. Rubber fuel line so far I've spent about $70 in hoses and clamps, and I'm not finished yet. Surge tank was $60 (second hand). T50 mine (out of a TA22 Celica) is stuffed, prices vary significantly. I got mine for $40, you get what you pay for... Umm... Clutch slave and master were $60 (new). Cutting and shutting my crossmember I did, so no cost there. Umm... Wiring I haven't even looked at yet, will try to do as much as I can myself. Hope that helps.

Okay, fine so I stole it from someone who stole it from someone else... but... To the V8 heads who have stickers that say "only juice and milk come in 2 litres", we have: "Only cheap goon comes in 4 and 5 litres" :)

Junior: Yup I've drilled that hole out already, and yes am planning on using TA22 system. I already have a dud master cylinder but was going to get a new one. You're right about the pedal being a little too far to the right, I have no idea what I'm going to do with that yet. Here is my modified pedal box as it is now:

That's looking very very neat, excellent work. My surge tank is apparently about 1L, no idea what sort - I got it 2nd hand. I'm thinkign I'm going to mount it on the drivers side, there are bolts there I'm assuming to bolt the jack or something to, will probably make a bracket to bolt that to and then bolt the surge tank to it. Or something to that effect. Oh yeah: what did you do with your clutch setup? Are you using a TA22 hydrolic kit? If so, what did you do with your clutch pedal? I've cut out the section behind my clutch pedal (the actual pedal box), was going to drill a hole through the clutch pedal itself and run the linkage through there. Spent 6 hours under the car last night making the fuel line, hope I never have to do that again. Also need to get some new hose brackets and stuff to finish the job off.

Junior: how have you mounted the surge tank? Did you weld a bracket into the rear quarter section? I'm currently looking at how I'm going to set up my system, am open to ideas :)

Teddy: switch? please explain...

http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1734601.phtml

How come you no longer own the car but you still owe $9K? Didn't you get anything back for it when you sold it (to help you pay back the loan)? Or did you lose that much money on it?

Well, see I just need to use the wheels temporarily so i can wheel the car around, so doesn't need to look good, or even be in good condition, as long as they bolt on and can roll around I'm happy :) NickAE86: Most of the work done by me, shortening and welding of the ring to support the sleeves done by someone I know (don't trust my welding enough yet).

Yeah... problem being most 4 stud rusty crappy rims are 13" :)