camerondownunder88

Ben I'm keen on write ups Ive done a fair amount on my KE30 and ke15 just DIY mods on brakes looms etc so Id write some up for a tech section. As I know I think the search function is poo and hate it. So tech section with just articles and that would be great. Cam

Also datto A12 push rods and chev/holden solid lifters will only work with a 3K head on it. But in my 5K I have 4K push rods and 3F lifters works a treat. BUT THEY MUST BE dished piston 4K push rods the other rods are to long. Or you can make dirty lifters use 5K hydro lifters pull guts out and pop the top of it back in and run stock like 3K push rods. There in Felix 5K KE15 worked for years for him not a problem. Cheers Cameron

KE11 bay is smaller than most rollers BUT the distance from strut tower to strut tower is wider than a KE20 useless fact. BUT as for engine I just did a 5K into a KE15 piece of piss bolt in. But due to its size can screw up extractors a bit. But search for my ride and u will get a more detailed look at my KE15. But I met a guy the other week who does composite work on helicopters who also builds victor brays drag car shells. And he met a guy at willow bank the other week who owns a KE15 sprinter since new the guy is about 68 years old. He has modded it over the years and now runs a chev 350 cubic inch supercharged motor in a KE15. And he refuses to sell the car..LOL Looks hot to is bright red. So as is you can fit from a K motor to a big V8 in it so pends on how much work you want to do etc. But id got 7K personally. The cars are light as piss the KE1X cars and hey 7K with SC14 or turbo on it would hammer so get a 7K. Cheers Cameron

^^^ on that note. If the 1G rods are lower in the bore from the photos at the start of the thread. So it will drop the CR but if you want it high again for a tough NA motor shave the head or the block I guess that would work Cam

Hi TRD, Long time since I last talked to you ont eh phone. I have always been thinking about this as the 4agze rod is thinner with out the nice "fit" at high RPM they could slap about. But after being in your car I am sure if after a year there still good well I wont bother welding them up on the sides to take up the space. But after your piece of info a 4agze gudgeon pin is 20mm diameter. A 1G rod also runs 20mm. Not a 4K crank is in a 5K factory so a 4K crank 5K block 1g rod and 4agze piston and it should work for a mean forged piston high boost K motor. Can we possibly get specs on con rod lengths at all? As if one rod drops the piston lower or lifts it more you can play with length to get the compression ratio correct. Cheers Cameron

Opps I forgot about the bore..LOL But does anyone know the diameter of the gudgeon pin in a 4agze piston? I know these fit a 5K so if they have the same pin diameter as a 1g con rod you could use a 1g conrod and save the hassle of welding and machining 4agze rods. Also how long are 1gg rods and then how long are 4agze rods also? Cheers Cameron

HAHA Oktoberfest Brisbane last weekend HECK YES was awesome. And the RAAF base Oktoberfest next weekend for me HECK YES...so wanna go back to land of beer...some one buy me a flight..lol

If your keen ToyoKE30Coupe use the search function I wrote a How to DIIY angle eyes on here have them on my KE30 cost like $40 all up for me to do it but worth it. Cheers Cameron

Mate nice car. If I was you id keep it. But it is up to you. Also don't under estimate a KE1X potential. I haven't got my KE15 sprinter on the road yet but have been in a spin in one that just had a mild 5K all it had was cam a Webber and extractors and mate it flew. Brand new commodores up to the 140 ish mark this KE15 can keep up to and just in front of off the lights not many 1969 cars can claim that. So if you keep it and mod it make sure you don't CUT,DRILL to much so it can be restored to former glory. Cheers Cameron P.S. if you need part numbers for replacement parts from Toyota for this car I have the part number book for the 4dr KE10 sedan all few hundred pages so I can scan and email pages to help you out if you plan to restore this ride and keep it.

Actually REAL German beer wont expire. They have a law made so long ago it is older than the pyramids. But all beer over there can only be made with 4 ingredients no more no less. So they are the normal hops etc those 4. So German beer will go on for ages. BUT when I was last at the XXXX brewery tour for my 4th time :lolcry: they said they put "additives " in the beer so it will only last 6months tops. So most modern USA/ Aussie beer and other drinks wont last long. But German beer will. That is why German beer is so AWESOME no additives artificial flavors or anything mmmmm Cameron

Hi, After many days of disposing of about 80L of gas from a small commodore gas tank I now need to cut it in half. I have filled it with water just to displace the gas and plan to cut slow adn as I do the water will pour our and cut it witht eh tank sitting verticle so the gas (if any still in there) is above the water so less chance of a small pop. But is there another safety precautions I should take while doing this? Or can anyone recomend a way to do it? Cheers Cameron

WELL DONE :lolcry: All ways wondered if this was true. But now I know will help lots in my 5K I am planning to build as they run a 4K crank. Also the width of the conrod at the big end was it the same as a 4K one? I know you can run 4agze internals in a 5K to run wicked boost but the conrods are thinner so need some loving to take up the space. So was there any "space" or gap between the con rods and crank shaft on the big end? Cheers Cameron

Me Id never take the piss out of forced K..lol I want one. But SC14 FTW. Just need a pulley and I'm done.. Then the daily with 489,000km on it (it is a 3K) will have some spark back in its life..LOL Cameron

^^^ PM me..I'm all ears....

haha pends how big the testicle is if it will affect results..LOL Well in a way he is lucky if he wasn't boosting much with out a locked dizzy.. or good by Mr head gasket.LOL And the forced K bug is still to get me :lolcry: All I need is a idler pulley off a K aircon bracket and I'm set to SC14 my car but do you think you can find that stupid pulley these days.. Cam

HAHAH it was well oiled Si..lol it actually had a busted thrust bearing that unit so plenty of oil coated that thing..LOL MMM 5PSI a start. What is he aiming for with the carby setup? Also hows his manifold made? is it just mild pipe weld up at home or a off the shelf unit? Also anymore specs on his ride like fuel system so far engine internals etc? And I think we all want to know what is faster the datto or your corolla :lolcry: Cheers Cameron

HAAH Matt not affended by any parties at all...it is hes opinion about me so meh what do I care. Also Sbox one more note..I use my rotating turbo as an EXAMPLE....I didn't say hold air at 100PSI for 5min till bearing welds together. Or to use your TV94 internals. I said a rough guide on how to demo straight how different "angles of attack" on a turbine can affect its performance. When I did it I had a CT12 turbo internals and did if for SECONDS with oil on the bearing. So I didn't do what your apprentice did with a bearing I'm not that stupid. And I even stated they can do a lot of RPM here and DON'T hit your finger so I knew what I was doing as I do build aircraft for a living and gas turbines I know the forces that are at work...... But with his setup did this datto get the carby over hauled? Could be a leak. Also His turbo outlet pressure line tot he carby is that radiator hose? This can work but by the looks of his it isn't QUIET the right stuff so even if he got boost should he maybe change to some aluminum piping? Also one thing we always do when starting gas turbines we look to see if the internals are rotating. Does his turbo spin with oil pressure on the shaft and the engine running? Just have a look as something could be jamming...does happen. Cheers Cameron

Hi, I am with Matt here., Does this guys datto have vac to the actuator? Also think of it this way. Have you ever seen inside a gas turbine (jet engine)? Well they have a thing called NGV..Nozzle guide vanes. Thee direct the hot gases onto the turbine at the right angle to give maximum power out put...I will stop there as I could talk for days on NGV's. So Some new turbos have similar "vanes" in the turbine scroll. As vac is there the vanes move when the actuator pulls on them directing the gas onto the turbine. As vac drops off at high pressure vanes move away and turbine wont have the right gas flow angle into its inducer and it will slow down. So the actuator on the side of this turbo works off vac. And that is how it works basically. These turbos are nice and I would love to get one my self to destroy and play with the turbine and the angles the vanes work at to get some serious flow data. Also some big ass truck turbos I have Si. Most don't have built in waste gates etc...So you need all external gear for those. But just for fun Sbox go to your shed grab an old turbo shaft/turbine/compressor/front bearing..all bolted together with out the housings. with one of the brass bush bearings on the shaft and the compressor bolted up to the shaft. Oil up the surface of the shaft and bearing you will hold a bit and hold it vertical so the turbine is down and compressor is up in the air. Hold the bush with 2 fingers and get your shop air gun...Now take caution here. Wave the gun at different angles to the turbine and notice how fast it can spin at different angles. This is fun tilt the turbine clips a finger and trust me it is doing a few THOUSAND RPM when you have a lot of shop air so play it safe..LOL Fun to do having a turbo spinning in your 2 fingers then you can really feel the force in it when you try to move it..lol Cheers Cameron

Hi, Just catching up on the thread. Bad to hear about the gear box. Did you strip it down to see what was at fault in the box? Also my KE15 sprinter hasn't done to much I have been busy but tonight I swapped the studs in the cylinder head for longer more threaded shank ones and finished and installed my new PORN battery to alt to starter loom and all that stuff...looks hot and car cranks over so much better. Other than that I obtained 2 part number books for KE1X sedans and wagons over 500 pages each and man there overrated condition and they help heaps so try to get one as I can recomend them. Cheers Cameron

^^^ can't blame him. Some bogan tonight pulled up in one with the optional 10RWKW add on from super cheap the shit gear nob and other shit on it and tried getting out of over due fees..HAHA HELL NO BUDDY....but I won he lost and his sub distorts on mute it was super crap....

Well I belive I have the worlds most expensive pot plant............I have a $5 plant growing in a combustion chamber out of a jet engine worth nothing short of $12000US just though Id share. Also in my video shop where I slave away I have about 17,567 members of a bit over 3000 are baned not bad for ipswich and we have over 29,000 movie disks so if everyone got one movie out in the night we would still have more to rent out in the shop..LOL and over due fees suck even staff get them :y: But we don't pay....... Cam.

Hi, I changed SC14 to Vbelt so no change to alt or anything. But the VW flat belt pulley bolted to the front of the crank vbelt one so if you go to that option you wont need to change other belts either. Cheers Cameron

Oh one more thing when I got my SC14 that has piping setup for a 5K the guy gave me a pulley that bolts to my crank one that is the same as the stock SC14 pulley so I can run a flat belt he said it was off a VW but not model so if you want the whole flat belt look at VW pullies. Cameron

Hi, I have done this setup my self well its not on the car yet but..lol Get a dual V-belt pulley for a 4K that had air con. You can use a normal single pulley and put a normal one bolted to it will work just need to cut the shaft for the crank off the one that is on the front. This will give you the space for a second V-belt. Then you need a single row sigma air con clutch. I had a dual V-belt sigma air con pulley and it was JUST to wide for my liking as the pulleys were a bit thick so I felt on the SC14 shaft the nut wasn't screwed on enough. Then just get 4K air con mounts or make your own and then bolt it all up :y: So in short get a dual 4K crank pulley, single grove sigma air con pulley, and a air con mount for a K motor OR K series engine power steering pump mounts also work then your done :dance: Cheers Cameron P.S. the SC14 I have the clutch on the front was stock and made by nipondenso and there other clutch pulley they has most run similar bearing sizes adn work as it is a industry standard so if you can't get a sigma pulley look at other aircon units and you will get something as the centre bearing size is sometimes the same.

Hi, Congrats on getting it on the road. With twin carbies I find a great tuning tool is a good accurate vacuum gauge on the manifold I have mounted on my KE15 console and also the Jaycar O2 sensor kit with LED display in the car. Can get a good tune at home and work out which carbie is richer and while driving get 02 read outs 24/7 when it is on great kit about $60 I can recommend getting one. Cheers Cameron