ke70dave

you pretty much have the easiest way to go about it. just take the pedalbox/gearbox/engine/crossmembers and bolt it into you ke70. you will need to drill a few holes for the hydraulic clutch master cylinder, but other than that bolt it all in.

ahhh see you should have put that in your first post! i always like a bit of background info before attempting to answer questions. intesting you mention tyre wear, the idea of camber is so that when you hit a corner hard, the whole contact patch of the tyre is used (rather than the outside edge which happends with ~0 deg camber, or the tyre upright) if your car is setup well, and you don't spend all day driving on straight roads, you shouldnt get any excessive abnormal tyre wear from running negative camber. as it should be just enough camber on the tyre to get an even tyre contact patch ie maximum grip, when cornering. "camber wear" is generally on cars with -10 degree camber, that rarely hit corners hard, and spend all day sitting in carparks. however, your straight line breaking WILL suffer from running a bit of negative camber, especially in the wet. -2.5 was down right dangerous at times in the wet. for instance i have -1 camber on my ke70 (6kg front springs, and federal 595-R? tyres) and i don't have any abnormal tyre wear. i did when i had -2.5 though, that was too much. you will see race cars at the race track checking their tyre temps and wear to make sure they are using the whole tyre. as for ke70, camber tops are the best way. forget about longer control arms, or extending stock arms, and all that, sure they work, but camber tops are precise and you get the added bonus of solid top hats, which tightens things up considerably. I'm sure someone will reply with "xt130 arms FTW" or some such thing, but in reality camber tops are the proper way to do it. edit: sigma LCA's are about 2miles to long on a ke70, don't worry about them.

questions will help us out. 1- Why do you want "camber" 2- What other suspension mods do you have. 3- what wheels/tyres do you run (I'm just curious)

isnt a datto quite a bit bigger than your "normal" k powered vehicle? think it might be a tad underpowered? dato 1600 should have L motors. its just the rules.

I find girls are difficult to buy for in general. The trick is, to go shopping with them, and look for what they point out!! then go back the next day and buy it before someone else does! what i find more difficult is buying stuff for other girls (just friends) who you probably wouldnt go shopping with, or know very well (compared to girlfriend etc) i have a few friends who are girls, who i know they have got me a present (probably a pretty awesome one), but damned if i could think of something for them..... i ended up getting somehting, but i think its pretty crap, hopefully they like it:S

congrats to you and your partner. i hope the little one and mum is doing fine.

i think we need to define what you mean by "dash" if you are only talking about the guages, thats the "guage cluster" like nisrola has got there. thats a relatively easy job, figure out how to sho-horn it into where your current guages are, wire it up. winnah. if you are refering to the whole dash (ie like that ae101 dash i posted, or the s15 dash in that one i linked) then that is a much bigger job. just go to the wreckers, with a tape measure and compare the lengths with your ae71 one. nothing is going to bolt in, and whatever you choose is going to be a bit of work. because its not supposed to be there... but with enough time and effort anything will fit. i personally woudlnt bother with either, just clean up what you have. i assume nisrola has some sort of nissan engine in his car, and what he has done is an easy way to get away with too much wiring headache (and speedo cable too). looks good.

yeah but I said taking the engine out and putting it into other cars, ie fd's etc. See a lot of 20b conversions.

sure its not a toyota, but it is a car, and we are car enthusiasts. Ive never really thought the mazda cosmo was much good, except for sho-horning the engine out of it into other things.. untill i saw this one the sound out of that thing, is incredible! anyone else got any decent media (videos/photos) of the cosmo?

sounds to me like you might be missing an earth. theres a few earths around the engine bay that are bolted to stuff (like rings on bracket bolts) i forgot to put one of these back on once, all hell broke lose, half the indicators working, stuff not working, lights not working, freaked me out, but then i saw the earth and all was well.... so make sure there arnet any stray earths in your engine bay that should be bolted to something. orrr you havent plugged in the main loom from up near your steering wheel. there is to much stuff broken, it must be something simple.

you get a 1.8L 4age. head over to ae86dc, there is a large tech article/discussion on making one. or even just have a google. i wouldnt do it myself, but some people have had success and swear by the idea.

it will look garbage. don't listen to those who say you can get a good job with rattle cans, it always looks tacky and half assed. take up beerhead on that offer :wink: edit: especially if you are painting silver over black, give it a few weeks and you car will have black coming through the silver.

the bloke who tested me was real nasty, he was known as "2 minuite terry" as your test usually only lasted 2mins before you failed... i took the wrong exit on a round about, i reckon he gave dodgy directions...'straight ahead' isnt a good direction on a round about with 5 exits....had an arguement about that whilst i was driving... maybe he was testing my ability to drive with distractions.... i thought id failed after he made a few makrs on the form then told me to "head back". but i passed with flying colours!

First go here too, maybe 5 lessons. Got 1 non critical for waiting too long at an intersection......noone behind me......but me I didn't care when he passes me:p

i think all your comments are good, but i also think that some people tend to rely on safety features of cars as a substitute for driver ability. when you hear of "single vehicle rollover" and "a car has plowed into a tree" or "a car has lost control" you have to wonder what is going on there.... sure its great that the safety features could very well have saved a life, or saved someone from serious injury. (air bags are a great invention, and ABS is quite possibly the greatest car safety invention ever) howeever we shoudlnt rely on these things or become complacent with driving safe, which i think is what is happening. or our current "Training" of drivers is somewhat lacking, and i think some of the reason is "Well cars are safer now, therefore we don't need as much training" only have to watch people driving in the rain to realise this, tailgating, accelerating fast around corners, watching the stability control light flashing like crazy... edit: philby missed your post (i took to long to post mine..) you make excelent points. i think crumple zones are quite good safety feature. arbatary numbers here, but rather than going from 100-0 in 0.2secs, with crumple zone 100-0 could be achieved in 0.5secs. now considering a single car that smashes into a tree, more inertia may actually help you, since the car will tend to keep going, thus reducing your deceleration time. but if you design a light car with appropriate crumple zone...then you may be better off again. but light costs money (alloy is just not viable for every production car), so we stick with big massive heavy cars with 16 airbags and a massive crumple zone, and hope for the best.

yeah what jono said^^ if it happened after you washed it...then i assume you got water somewhere where you shoulndnt have. how enthusiastic did you get with the hose around your starter motor?

how are you blokes hacking up your thumbs so bad?????? sounds nasty as. cutting through tendons??? stuff that. giving me the heebeegeebees.

yeah mate pretty much what towe01 said. first step is to take the radiator out, turn it up side down flush it out with the hose (fill it up with water, then let it gush out) do this upside down, right way up, on the side. do it a few times and make sure all the crap is out. then shove the hose into your engine, give it a good flush. take out your thermostat, drop it into a cup of boiling water make sure its opening fully. then put it all back together with some coolant. currently you would have spent $0 (cept the coolant) make sure all the air is out of your cooling system (start it up from cold with the radiator cap off, make sure its parked on flat, or uphill..NOT downhill) then see how it goes. your looking at like 300 bucks for a ke70 radiator brand new, since they are completely metal. (you may be able to find an ebay bargain). and 300bucks is alot of money to spend on something you may not need. generally (from my experience) unless a radiator has a hole in it, or ALL the fins are bent/destroyed, its still good to use. if it still gets hot, take it to get cleaned at a radiator shop, they do funky things to them and get even more crap out. prolly 60bucks or so.

whats wrong with your current one?

yep, thats whats called being eco friendly! lets make cars bigger, and with more weight, include technology in the engine to decrease the fuel consumption. but becuase they weight so much, end up with using about the same amount of fuel as the cars of 1989! (my mates sv21 with the 3sfe used hardly any fuel, especailly on the highway) imagine todays technology, in cars that weighed the same and used the same amount of materials as those of 20yrs ago. or potentially lighter if everything was made of plastic, could be using bugger all petrol..and using less materials to do it.....

ah sorry, yeah this was just the easy one to between the two halves. only time ive ever replaced that one your talking about was when i had a VRS kit for it, so i assume it came in there.

i wonder how copper would go around water though? potentially not that great. awesome for inlet/exhaust though. i think turbo/manifold gaskets are usually copper? some chunky metal anyway. also, taz, i bought a thermostat gasket once through repco. was like $4, i was surprised they had it, i was ready to get cracking with the gasket paper and razor blade...

nah you should be right if you have a decent socket set and a few spanners and screw drivers. just make sure you got a long extension to get the annoying bolts on the inlet/exhaust manifold. you may be able to get away with out it, i just found it easier that way. rest is pretty straight forward.

5k is a newer motor, so whatever you do to the 3k, it will never be as good as if you did all the same stuff to the 5k. 5k's arent that rare and hard to come by, see them up forsale everynow and then, you will hvae to go looking for them. they come out in a van or something, so hit up the van wreckers. you might have to ring around alot, but can't be that hard to find one.

I'm not sure more moderation will help much, but it may be the only thing we can do. it seems that alot of the threads popping up are from people that are just lazy and don't want to research themselves. and I'm not sure how you combat that, without driving people away. like some others have said, we were all knew nothing at some stage. and not everyone is keen on going on cruises, especially if people have family/kids etc.