ke70dave

edit: just read the "SA" bit on the end of the thread title, so maybe my comments don't count. ive got 2 mod plates in my car for appropriate things, and everything is nice and clean, legal height, niceish paint, wheels in guards. and i got a bloody defect for my nardi steering wheel. and they only pulled me up because it was a setup defect station. ive not been properly pulled over for years, ever since i sprayed my car. unfortuantely its rare to see a clean modified ke70, they all seem to for the stereo typical "drift pig". I'm unsure why, as they all look like heaps of junk, and prolly go like heaps of junk too. all i can say is keep them off the road, and into the wreckers, for parts for me to pilpher!

well obviosly the tune wasnt identical. hot wire AFMs are very accurate metering devices. it is a what they call a "primary" metering device (i think). where as MAP is a secondary, because map isnt actually measuring the amout of air going into your engine, it is measuring the pressure and the ecu converts this reading into a air flow. and there will be some uncertainties associated with this conversion. not to mention that map is useless over ~10% throttle. gota rely on the TPS.

whatever you do don't listen to the bloke above me. how about some photos as to what your talking about. hard to get a grip on exactly how big this hole is....if you have cut a hole big enough for the dizzy to fit through (~80mm) then that wont be legal at all..... in fact any hole in the firewall wont be legal, as its no longer a fire wall, as the fire can get in through this hole (or hot oil etc) the idea of a firewall is exactly as it sounds. it must be sealed from the outside so in the event of a fire or explosion in the engine bay the cabin is sealed from the engine bay. as far as i am concerned (which doesnt mean much), as long as the engine bay is completely sealed from the cabin, via the firewall, then you can do whatever you want, but you will need a engineer to sign it off. i recall seeing a ke70 which had had a metal box welded into the firewall to allow the 20V dizzy to sit in, he got a ticket for it easily enough.

Proof please mate. Especially the 'stronger internals'

hahaa man that dyno chart is the DEFINITION of turbo lag. i bet that was a pain to drive. no power...no power...no power...no power...no power...WHEEL SPIN!!!! as for original question, far to open ended I'm afraid. do some research, make some calls to engine builders. that will get you your ansnwer. after all, modifying an sr20 is not really a new thing..

i think modifications of this nature are a bit out of the "Scope" for corollas. corolla is (to me) a light cheap rwd car that is plenty of fun to drive with some relatively easy/cheap modifications. if you have the cash to throw around for converting leaf/coil rear ends...maybe look into a different car that already has these modifications, so you can then use said money to make it better. rather than spending all this extra cash and still not be as good as an already available option that could be had for cheaper. i mean I'm all for engineering and "breaking the mould" but maybe not this. although if you have the skills to do all the work yourself, then by all means go for your life it would be awesome, but if you are intending on paying someone...then i woudlnt even bother. fabrication/consultants on this kind of thing, your looking at $70/hour minimum. wont take long to be VEERY expensive.

find out the offset of the wheels both flipped and unflipped, it all depends on the offset and also the design of the centre. and ill draw it up in solid works, and then we will see the dramas. you can measure wheel offset with a ruler. are you the same guy who asked this question on ae86dc?

I think those knox blokes are the guys on ebay. looks like they got plenty of carpets for us! COROLLA KE-10,KE-11 1968 - 1971 FLOOR CARPET COROLLA KE-20,KE-25,KE-30 1972 - 1978 FLOOR CARPET, BOOT FOR KE-30,35,55 ONLY COROLLA KE-35,KE-55,T-18 1978 - 1981 FLOOR CARPET COROLLA KE-36,KE-38 1978 - 1980 FLOOR CARPET COROLLA KE-70,AE-71 1982 - 1985 FLOOR CARPET COROLLA AE-80,AE-82 1986 - 1989 FLOOR CARPET COROLLA AE-90,AE-92 1989 - 1994 FLOOR CARPET COROLLA AE-101R, AE-102X 1994 - 1998 FLOOR CARPET

what is cheapest? 4agze what is easyest?4agze what is more powerful? depends what rotory is best?depends how hard is it to get a rotory engine convo engineered? ask an engineer. if you want turbo, the rule (in QLD at least) is such a way that a 13B turbo is to big for a ke70, but a 12a turbo is ok. so you can either have a 12a turbo, or a 13b non turbo. 12a turbo are pretty rare in aus, and they are all stuffed by now anyway. in fact almost all 12a's are stuffed by now, and you can't get 12a housings new anymore, though a few place around are machining down 13B plates for use in 12a, at a cost. 12a's are also carby from factory, so its alot of custom work.. you will need to do ALOT of research, 12a's mount from the front of the engine in rx7's, but there are ways around this. as you want to get them to mount from the sides if you can, so you can just mount them to your existing crossmember. in summary to put a turbo 12 rotary in you car: custom engine mounts custom gearbox mount custom wiring figure out what intake manifold you are going to figure out how you are going to setup you EFI system, staged injectors? what CAS are you going to use? figre out what ECU you are going to use. custom intercooler piping possible custom turbo manifold exhaust decent fuel system (surge tank etc) custom tailshaft bigger differential to handle the power for 4agze convert everything to AE71 spec, bolt in 4agze, intercooler piping, fuel system, wiring, drive! which one is better? 4agze for ease of installagion and happy drifting for a few years 12a turbo for the awesome power and response that is possible if you do it correctly.

very interesting benno, thanks for taking the time to explain that. makes perfect sense.

well this has been quite an enjoyable thread to read. best off ringing the guys who are going to be supplying your camshaft, they know lots of good stuff. and although i do agree with you taz, i think its good to remmber that with modifications they almost always goes over budget! but yes alot of those prices are grosely over estimated.

yeah id say its common for this to happen in older cars. my t50 does it a bit. in fact most manuals ive driven have done it at some stage.... what you can try and do is to put it into 1st before you try for reverse. i don't know the exact science but i hear rumours of "it stops the lay shaft from spinning" which will help you get it into gear. seams to work well in my car. and yes the reverse gear is straight cut, not helical and it does not have a syncho, so you need to be completely stopped before you try shift into reverse. you will find that almost every manual gearbox has reverse gear like this, as there is no need to go into reverse if you are moving forward. failing this maybe change your gearbox oil, i think there are a few brands out there that are supposed to be better for worn gearboxes.

damn that was a nasty hit!!!!!

my goodness what a nice car well done mate. gonna be a very nice package when you get it complete. keep the photos rolling.

man these threads are getting more frequent. you need to decide for yourself taking into account: your skills your connections your budget your prefernces and the legalities. the top three things determine what is "better" what is "Easier". and the 4th one determins if your allowed to do it. reasearch, make notes, research make phone calls, resarch, then you will know for yourself. instead of asking a bunch of randoms, who don't know you, or your personal situation, on what engine is "better" and "easier" for you... oh and if your on the P's like hiro suggests (which seems likely given the L plate i can see...), forget all engine conversion, for street use you a stuck with the 4k.

i would be forgetting supercheap and just go to another parts shop, places like repco/bursons either have it on the shelf, or will get it by the afternoon. at my local repco, if i get there before 11am, and the part i need has to be ordered in, it will usually be there at 230pm. thats if its needed to be ordered in, usually its on the shelf. it does sound like the water pump is the culprit though.

yeah he used a multimeter to test your sender unit. the unit produces a resistance bewteen the tap on the unit (where the wires goes) and ground. and since it screws into your engine block the ground is through the body of the sender unit. so he got you a new sender unit? did it fix your guage? his test only tested the resistance of the sender itself, it did not check the wiring or the guage itself. getting an aftermarket guage/sender is a really good idea, have a look into the VDO guages, you pay a bit more but they are very good quality, available from repco for about ~$80 or so. and they have the old school look to them, so fit in with old cars guages. i have one of these, they arent digital, just analogue, but look good and most importantly work good! your chosen location seems fine to me.

i drove my mates car around with a locked diff a few times. CA18det in an ae86. i mean sure it was a pain in the ass in carparks, but it was pretty good when moving. though the locker tries to keep the steering straight (as expected) so its quite weird to drive with at first. you just have to keep reminding yourself you are driving a hand grenade that will do weird things. but if you want to drift....its a cheap way to do it. oh yeah its completely illegal and dangerous too.. also why does it matter if its winter or not?

what do you mean by forest car? rally car? and I'm not sure if 5-10yrs is considered "soon"!! (assuming i understood your post correctly)

agreed that alot of the auxilary functions are never hooked up on these conversions. but then again you can get away with out an idel up for if you don't have A/C or power steer. on my car i have no idle up, but i have gone about blocking up every port properly and i just use the butterfly to control my idle speed. and i have none of that water business up near the throttle body either. ideal? nope, but it will idle at exactly 1000rpm all day every day ). and so long as i drive it gently when its cold i never have a drama. though its a different story if my brother needs to reverse it out the driveway at 6am, he will stall it a good 6times! (can be slightly difficult to start on REALLY cold mornings, might need to help it out with a bit of throttle for the first couple of seconds)

as much as the sound and throttle response, and general old school'ness of carbys is appealing, i still love EFI. i just have a (what some consider boring) 16V in my ke70, but its great! plenty of power, 100% reliable and EFI is great for daily driving, weather its sitting in traffic at a stand still or crusing along the highway at 110km/h it dosent miss a beat. starts first time every time and certainly takes a beating. i don't know why everyone thinks that EFI is difficult to setup in a carby car, just do it once and do it properly. same deal with wiring, there is not alot to it, but if your not electrically minded it can be difficult. either spend a few weeks learning about electrics, or pay someone good money to do it. or find a mate who you trust to do a good job. EFI is like a "set it and forget". the tune isnt going to change in the computer, and on the 16V its such a simple (and somewhat primative) EFI setup there is very little to go wrong.

thats the spirit. those seats are a complete pain in the ass (litterally) to get in and out of, but once your in its fantastic, untill you need to pick up something from the passenger footwell, thats a non event:P we had to get one of those steering wheel quick release things, as my mate coulndt actually get into the car with the steering wheel on! (he is uber tall and faily well built)

ah those RX7 wheels look great. that is quite possibly the greatest crack in a dash i have ever seen!

yeah i dunno about rare, ive had mates who have lost their wallets and got them back. ive had mates who have lost them and never seen them again too.... steeling is somewhat of a selfish mentality and such mentality is growing at an alarming rate to the point where it is almost the "norm". ie have what you want, go where you want to go with no regard for anyone else. steeling is just at the extreme end of this mentality. and i don't know how you go about changing it without rules such as the cut off the hand thing. same deal should be for drink driving or doing burn outs, if you get caught, you can't have a license for 2yrs, and if you need it for your job, i don't care, should have thought about that before you did a burnout. its far to easy to "Get of lightly" i reckon.

far out nice work. just on those cheap brides, the thing that lets them down is the die in the material. my mate has a pair of them, and the top corners that get sunlight have faded something chronic. so i dunno maybe get some seat covers for them perhaps, or just try and keep them out of the sun. damn nice seat though, a tad uncomfortable after a few hours, but certainly hold you in, and feel very solid in the car.