LittleRedSpirit

I don't think the car will require a mod plate or engineers report if you do go for a 4age. Its still efi, the same capacity, and a 4a series engine. The department of transport should allow you to just change the number. Thus avoiding the non-modified clause for new P-Platers. I know you said you do not want to go 4age but honestly, in your situation, I certainly wouldn't ask you to mod the 4afe. 4ages are a nice fun revvy drivers motor. They also have a massive selection of cams, head accessories, extractors, and just plainly more you can do with them. There is a huuuuuuuuuuuge aftermarket, and if you do cams in one then it will not even look modified.

That car looks as if its had little use for sure in all the closeups. Best to deal with the gunk problem head on so you can enjoy the car and have some peace of mind, because that is a lot of crap in there. I guess you just have to get stuck in, man up, put your thinking cap on and get the hose into it and backwash the heater core, swap to some new hoses and may as well fit a new thermostat and complete the cooling system service. Get some good quality hose clamps from an industrial place for a little extra peace of mind. Run muckowt in the thing for a week once you put it all back together and then drop off the bottom radiator hose and replace with decent coolant mixed with demineralised water. It will love you for it. You might spend 100 dollars at once on bluemaxx, coolant, thermostat, muckowt, water and hoses, but its better to do it this way properly rather than dump the coolant at 3 different times to do three different things. Do you have any service documents on the car to say what was done to her? don't worry too much about water in the engine bay. If you absolutely have to you can carefully hose it out. Just don't do it hot, cover your intake with plastic and also cover electrical stuff like the starter, wiring and alternator.

Yeah suppose so, but go and have a look to see whether you need it first, might just be blocked remember mate. Better have a hose clamp spare to get her back together if you cut the clamp off remember.

Many old Toyota taps are the same, go to repco and try to get a new one, they might have one there aftermarket. Old stuck on hoses are very hard to get off and the heater core is fragile, as is the tap, so don't just pull on them. Get something spike shaped and poke it carefully under the lip of the hose and gently prise it free. The just grab th hose and TWIST it, it should pop off very easy once you twist. I you have to cut the clamp off the go and get a hose clamp for it of course.

You can bring a moke if you want. Its intended a great way for people with ke70s from all over to catch up with one another. If your interested and do not own a ke70, come along for the 'mobile show and shine', patent pending.

I'm out, I don't take my car to the Goldie, not worth the risk.

Yep, you are all spot on, the tap might just be stuck. If you don't use it for 6 months its conceivable it could just fail. Tidy looking car btw.

Mate, I cannot believe you would expect people to have written tutorials for all kind of different swaps. There is no manual for an engine conversion. Personally I prefer to do it my way if I can, to give it some personal touches. The fun pat is all the fab and engineering you can do along the way. Its one big learning experience. lol, tutorials.

The heater tap is right at the top of the firewall, it will probably have some hose connected to it, and be operated by a short cable popping through the firewall right next to it. The box with the core is easy to find because it has the cores brass hose connections protrudung into the engine bay. Just line it up from the other side to work out where it is. You will need to remove most of it to get to it. Now come on, with a little rational thinking you should be able to do this easy enough. The real time waster is working out how the dash works.

You have been busy!

Yeah it will work fine.

Any 4a bellhousing will work, but stick to a t50 with a 20valve for longevity. No point with the k box IMO. Your bell housing will be from any of the jap cars mentioned, or ADM ae71, ae86. ADM will be easiest to find. The flywheels are identical in how they fit, but the difference is in the diameter of the friction surface. 200mm for bigport 16v, just like a 4ac had, so you can use a 4ac pressure plate and clutch disc with it if youre stuck. For this you need an Ae86 or ae82 twincam flywheel which is 200mm cause they came with the bigport. You have to use a 4a flywheel cause its 8 bolt not 6 like 4afe/4ac. The larger flywheels are 212mm, and came with smallport onwards 4ages. They need a bigger clutch disc and pressure plate, so if you have a silvertop Id be looking for a 212mm flywheel and matching clutch. The silver and blacktop ones are lighter than most, about 7 and 6kg roughly. What he said about the cleaning /\/\/\/\

Mystery solved. Ill hook you up with a can of degreaser one day. :yes:

First thing is pop the bonnet, i.d. the tap, and see if its connected. I dare say it will not be. If it isn't Id pull the dash apart and remove the big black box that holds the core. This will require removing most of the under-dash area.

Whats with the photo of the burned out looking engine bay? Did I miss something? Get some degreaser man.

Are your feet wet? The heater works by passing hot water from the motor through a small radiator in a box under the dash while a fan blows through it. Either, the heater tap is busted/not working, this tap allows water into the radiator when you engage the heater slide on the dash. Or the fan isn't blowing and actually creating any hot air. Or, if the heater core had started leaking in your cars interior, someone would have done the easy fix and just plain disconnected the heater by bypassing it completely with a loop of heater hose. Therefore there might be no actual hose connected to the heater tap to supply hot water. This is often done to pass roadworthy dodgily (its what I did once!). If its been disconncted and looped off then I say just buy a new core, or remove the old one and have it tested and fixed with some more braising. There is only really one reason to disconnect a heater core, so if you just reconnect it, then expect wet feet while driving. Its a bit of a pain to change, but since you're going to have the dash apart, you could do some other maintenance while you are there, like check the stereo wiring out for dodgy contacts, joined wires, fix any blown bulbs and replace any parts you see which are cracked or broken. If you have never pulled the dash apart before then take your time and be patient, and remember where the screws were! There are little tricks to most things. Tip: look from an angle where your head usually isn't and you will find the screws/clips for most things. Good luck. Let us know how you go.

Well the beer should go to Beerhead, as its his crane. lol. But yeah, its all good. I think the brakes on my AE71 were clearly inadequate for stopping the 4age AE71. Possibly should go to AE86 struts, or something which lets you have a bit of a brake upgrade. Better shock choice etc. Just a strut from a Toyota which has the same stud pattern, a larger od, and bigger rotors standard. I guess a ke10 is such a light thing though and the ke70 stuff will be pretty adequate for it. Whatever you do, hold on to the original stuff too as it comes out of the car. For some nice headers go and see Peter Herrimann at Swift Race Engines. He can design some which actually add hp and fit in the bay. He also does ceramic on them for you. Had to work a full 12 hour day on Sunday so I avoided the dinner. Sorry everyone.

Dave, looks great! I know this car is going to be something special. I reckon the only reason you would ever put 15 inch wheels on a 10 would be to clear big brakes. I think you could definitely get away with that one. As for wheel choice, have a look at some Mazdas for old Jap style 15s. Might get some early jap wheels in 4x110 pcd, and rwd offset from an rx7 or something like that. If I can help in any way I'm only a phone call away. Edit: Just realized you get to choose your stud pattern with the hoppers kit! You will also maybe change the diff? Have you given any thought to a stud pattern conversion either to 4x114.3, or old ford 5 stud pattern, to open up the choice of old school styled 15 inch wheels with serious width and dish?

Once you've had your first Blacktop, you have a big set of quads, the lightest factory flywheel, and a head with more lift that you can use on a silvertop bottom end, which people believe to be stronger anyhow. Sounds like a nice combo to me. Not to mention you get to recoupe cash spent on the second motor by parting out the head, quads and flywheel that you do not need from it. If you add it up thats 5-6 hundred back on every motor you buy! Its like a 200 dollar rebuild.

Yeah I see your point but in the grand scheme of things the blacktop is worth the extra few hundred in my opinion. Go and see Danny at BMI, Rocklea, he gets many silvertops, blacktops, and tons of half cuts. He can source you one if he doesn't have it in stock, as can any importer. I paid $1250 for a blacktop engine with full intake, headers, alternator, starter, half the loom, and flywheel and clutch. 800 for a silvertop with the same. They had a 20valve halfcut last time I was there one month ago.

Their system puts the thermostat pretty much where a 4ac has it, and has no bypass. I prefer it, and use it in my car. The back of the waterpump goes directly into the bottom radiator hose, and the thermostat fitting pictured which points forward, joins to the head where the waterpump used to. I just try not to rev it past 4000 until the thermostat is open. You block off the heater port on the back of the head behind the extractors and either modify the existing thermostat housing at the rear or I think the kit might have the right fitting from Yager. Not sure, I have a modded standard one.

Worth waiting for!

Right on.

Very Nice, :hmm: I'm jealous that you have 2 door ke70s, let alone 2 of them!! I really like the engine stand you have, a chair! Those BBS rims make it look like a little BMW. Keep us posted. Are there many other corolla fans where you are? I see you have a Corolla Club of Finland sticker on the window?

:hmm: I really appreciate the effort you've put in to the presentation of your engine bay. Very tidy. It obviously drives bloody well too! :y: