LittleRedSpirit

Heres my boot cable. Surely youve worked this one out.

AE71s, KE70s, AE86s, TE71, TE72, TE70, AE70, etc all have incredibly similar/same floorpans. I would say the parts are interchangeable in most cases, but not the same. Most people opt for AE86 struts, due to the decent diameter and availability, as well as the availability of performance parts. The rears don't need much work, maybe a swaybar and shorter springs and shocks, more or less the same across the board. Most people try to fit a T18 (TE72) diff as they are T series and are a good bolt in upgade. If you want negative camber, then use Either Corona XT130 Lower control arms for -1.5 drgrees. or sigma arms, 3-4 degrees. I'm unsure of the sigma model you need to raid.

There is a vaccum leak. Check all the little rubber hoses and connections from point to point, if somethings hanging either plug it or reconnect it and test. Thats all I can think of, unless somethings up with the carby.

Euro Disney World? Let me guess, your gonna take stillnox and go there? I kid I kid. Ummmm, no idea, but I bet theres something to do with cars. Can you bring me home a nice TE71 GT. Ill pay the extra luggage charges!!!

Custom one piece tailshaft is gonna cost a lot more than an a series crossmember and steering setup, if it does come to that. It may not, but without knowing, Id be finding out first.

You can see my street in the Indooroopilly image! +1 for jeliousy

Firstly, if you want the car to handle as well as anyone elses' xe7x then use the crossmember which positions the motor as close to the fire wall as possible. A 4age is a nice light motor and will be nice tucked into the firewall as far back as possible. Weight in front of the front axles is not preferred if it can be avoided. If you change the position of the motor, will you be able to use the standard gearbox crossmember and is the height the motor sits at correct. WHat about tailshaft length? Will you ned a non standard manufactured one? Also, if the motor sits any higher than a standard A crossmember would make it you may misalign something in the driveline once you try to connect it all up. Also, a 7age is several mm taller than a 4age, and Ive personally witnessed a 16valve 7age throttle body rubbing on the underside of the bonnet. This was with a standard A series crossmember and engine mounts, in a ke70. I certainly would avoid raising it at all costs. Not saying you're doing it wrong necessarily, never done this conversion myself, I just don't want to see you waste any time and effort and find these things out the hard way. If your confident that you wont misalign the drive line by doing it this way then id say go for it. If you arent sure however, Id stick with all the premanufactured A series standard parts to save money and place the engine and driveline in the ideal spot.

Just look at the boot lock, there are already the right connections to slip it in, there is a forked perch to retain the cable end, and the little round ball goes on the bit in the middle that moves. That ones pretty obvious. If you look closely there will also be a metal tab on the underside of one of the boot lid reinforcements to hold the cable from flapping around. The fuel filler is a different matter, it needs a hole drilled in exactly the right spot and the metal clip that the lock goes behind ground off first. Then the mechanism just screws in. The cable runs past it underneath with the boot release and loops back gently to point towards the front of the car to fit the mechanism. Sorry no pics, but ones easy, the other needs a hole. You'll work it out bud. (confession: I fitted the boot release and not the filler as yet, been lazy)

If I had to guess, I'd say you would just need to steal an ae71 cross-member and rack, and probably the steering column and its mounts. Id be shocked if it all just didn't more or less bolt in. If you intend to get a Quaife quick ratio rack or change anything at all there is lots of mods you can do with rack and pinion that I know of. Not sure how it all translates to a different box/linkages setup. I just adore the simplicity of rack and peanut also. May as well do it while shes in pieces. You may need an A series cross-member to make it all work with standard mounts and a 7age. This will more or less require the steering conversion anyhow.

Spotted a dark blue ae71, drift pig looking, black bonnet and boot, modern toyota badge on the grill. Black plates with white letters. On the Ipswich motorway heading inbound. Certain you saw me, as I passed you and sat in front of you.

You really should change to rack and pinion steering, its the preferred option in my opinion.

So you put the cam gears on, are you on aftermarket ecu now?

I'm still getting bits of glass out of my face 7 years later.

Dang, youve had some bad luck.

...with a dead roo on the roof-rack and a bootload full of grog...

Audi RS4. All wheel drive, 420 bhp. A bargain at $175,000.00. 1650kgs. The v8 revs till 7800 for peak power. Yummy.

Well its about time!!! Its easy to see why we call it cancer.

Just have a look at the QR schedule of events and pick a day when there is going to be ae82s competing. Might need to look at the cams site too and see which class youll find em in. Or you could just do what Ive been saying all along and go and see Brian. Go right to the bloke that dozens of very competitive racers use for suspension tuning. He will know. He got my commodore handling great with only a 350 dollar investment.

Welcome to rollaclub.!! Lite ace might be a 4k, which would fit in the 20. To find out you can jump on wiki probably, they seem to have a lot of decent info there. Google is great too. Once you have an idea we'll fill in the blanks if any remain. If you can find the engine number, the type of motor will probably be the first few digits. Eg: 4kc_______ What sort of condition is the ke20 in? Getting hard to find a minter these days. Perhaps you can post the car in rides and projects and start a discussion about it. Please type fully structured sentences, so that others can easily understand what you ask/write. This will also allow the search function to gather more hits, and increase the likelyhood of your question being taken seriously.

No-one is stopping you compiling one for us all to use. Ill happily pin it if the info is decent. If you feel so strongly... DO IT!

Not much chance of that.

Coilovers are generally a slimmer diameter than a standard strut, and can add strut clearance on the back space of the wheel, so that shouldn't rub. If you scrub at full lock it wouldn't effectively cause any problems while driving. You will never achieve full lock going forwards except at very low speeds, and since its a fwd, you wont be needing any opposite lock. Id be more worried about getting a decent spring rate and damper combination. Have you spoken to Brian Herriman at Rocklea Mechanical yet?

What a shocking idea. Ever heard of rwd? Or fun? Its not all about aircon and power steering. Sell your ke70 and buy a fwd suitcase on wheels? Oh wow, what a great idea. No offence buddy, but this is very maddening to read. Id say keep your 'advice' to your self. Once you learn a bit more about what a ke70 can do maybe you can speak on the topic, but if your advice is sell it and buy a fwd with aircon, you really don't have anything to tell anyone, trust me.

8 inch zero offset will need some decent gaurd mods on a xe7x. I could only just get my 15x7, +1s on the rear with some serious heat gun and hammer action. Yours will be half an inch wider outside the gaurd if you get 8'S in the same offset. They'd fit an ae86 easy enough, but not a ke70. Are you gonna run flares? If you just want to lip the gaurds, Id get 15x8, +12. Should fit under nicely. I personally found the sierras to be too low and hard for my purpose. Possibly the worst feeling shock Ive tried to use in the rear. I am looking for traction though, if you just want a go kart setup you can drift, then they should be fine. Looks like a nice place to start from anyhow. Keep us posted!

Coilovers wont widen your track, except if you run it lower, but they wont be outside the normal range of motion that they followed on compression.