LittleRedSpirit

Whatever happens I'm sure it will end up on Jips phone.

I quite literally shivered when I saw the gunk. Ewww. How many ks on the box? I drained the oil from my 400k box today and it was clean as can be, and I never changed it.

I think someone is trying to sell some sigma pepper pot rims in the for sale section which I really like. They look cool on KEs and are period correct IMO. Look for wheels from Nissan RWD, Mitsubishi RWD, Toyota RWD. I have heard of another but I can't recall the make, euro I think. My spare tyre is a 15x6J Nissan Steel Rim. Unsure of what car but I suspect it came from an early skyline.

Why not eh.

You can but I personally would not. The theory behind it is as follows. - Falcon a big heavy car = fairly stiff spring rates compared to a rolla for the same ride quality as standard. If a rolla is say 2.5kg, then the falcon might be 4kg for the same ride quality - Falcon springs are far too long for a lowered corolla. You will go close to cutting them in half to get the required length of spring. This means you will go close to doubling the stiffness of the springs. - Cutting them will not change the stiffness of the metal, but it will reduce the amount of coils there are to flex and give you travel. - Therefore you will end up with very stiff springs which will actually seriously harm the handling of your car. Stiffer is not better. This is a common 'rice' misconception which is utter bs. The only reason you could possibly want stiff springs front and rear is to build a dedicated circuit drift car. - If you do not put in short stroke shock absorbers when you cut your springs then your springs will possibly fall out of their hats when the car becomes unweighted. With springs as stiff as cut AU springs then you will need very good dampers to control them adequately. If you are willing to tolerate this much bs just to get cheap lowered springs then go ahead. Its not much effort to save the 350 odd dollars to hit up GSL rallysport for some lowered kings and decent kyb dampers. He will probably help you select the right length of shock absorber for your needs too. Friends don't let friends use cut AU springs. All of this is my personal opinion from having tried a few different combinations and writing it off as a fail. If anyone has some conflicting experience feel free to post up.

ROFL. :cool:

Get a strip of chux or a crappy open weave cloth. Push the trim back to create a small space to push it into. Drag through so it catches the circlip hiding underneath and it will pop off. Winder then slides off. Its ok to be a bit forceful, and don't stress if you lose the clip, you can buy new ones at repco. Cheers.

Yes. Caster added Teins I think, but they weren't bought new so who really knows. They came off some secondhand coilovers someone got over from Japan.

GZEs run around 9:1. Smallports run around 10.5:1. Give or take some variance for headgasket thickness, shaves etc. If it were me Id leave the sc off the smallport, and find a gze bottom end.

Struts don't change anything, they just bolt in to the strut top mount. Best to measure the strut tops you plan on using and see how closely they compare to your standard units. The mounting bolt pattern is the same in adm ae71 but the caster position is different to ae86. There is no easy answer, just measurements to be taken. I have tein cambertops which are very close to ae71 pattern.

Firstly, well done. Its lovely when someone does their own research and comes up with answers. One thing you may have overlooked is the strut top bolt pattern and caster position in them. Most AE86 cambertops put the strut top bolt further forwards in the cambertop than an ae71 comes with, reducing caster undesirably. After talking with Gabriel at T3 I found out that he is aware of 3 different bolt patterns in AE71/KE70/TE70/TE71/TE72/AE86 strut tops, and you have to be careful what you buy or you may ruin your caster. The AE86 tops bolt in fine to an AE71, but they ruin your caster unless you buy the caster added ones, which are only 1-2mm wrong for an AE71, which can be adjusted out usually. The T18 rear end is a direct bolt in to AE71 or KE70. So is the JDM AE86 T series. This means that every mount lines up properly and as such, any AE86 rear suspension components should fit properly.

Actually this could turn into quite a topic, I'm pretty keen to run a remote booster to allow a free choice of air box and stack options on my 20 valve. Pics would be great Jono.

Must have been a turbo 2.6?

Like old mate up above said, do the conversion, paint the bay before you do with the gaurds removed and do a decent job. Then when its running, drive it to the paint shop and get the rest done. That way you wont scratch and dent your nice new paint while you are fabricating and fitting the non standard motor. I think white would be lovely. A crisp clean white is lovely, especially if that is the original color. It doesn't make sense to change it IMO.

Good to see youve got one finally. This things gonna be tidy!!!!

I think standard springs would be around 2.5kg if I had to guess. Any suspension shop worth their salt should be able to rate springs with a device they have if you simply must know. I think 6/4 is too stiff in the rear for traction, I have cut standard units in the rear and they are probably just over 3. Maybe less.

Hi chris, welcome aboard. Feel free to read the FAQ as a first port of call for any questions you may have. We will be adding more info to it as time goes by. Anyhow, have fun with the rolla (its impossible not to) and keep us posted!! Matt

Hope you pulled the glass out of it at least, and look at how wide the back wheels are!!

People often use the falcon spring option. Personally a cut falcon spring will be too stiff for me and my traction loving ways. For grip go softer, for skids go harder. I use cut standards in the rear of my car with the correct length shock absorbers and it gets top traction. I also have some pedders springs from a corona which Id estimate to be 6kg/mm to swap them with if I desire to slide. My fronts are fine at 6kg for pretty much whatever I want to do. As far as finding them goes, you would be best to experiment with cutting springs from other cars for a while, try hard, try softer, see what you like and then when you are more confident in knowing what you want get the custom setup ordered. Get decent shock absorbers too, and for gods sake make sure your spring are captive or you may die.

You will need an agile khana car, and for this reason I would say 4age, and lsd. Like Redwarf said though, start small and practice!

I had an ecotec powered vs holden ute for 4 years. Gave it plenty of curry, never did anything to it except a clutch, 10000k services, fancy plugs, a powersteering pump and some suspension work. I bought it with 80,000kms on it and sold it with 150,000. Id say either is reliable, and the ecotec made good power. I just wouldn't put it in a small car as for me it destroys the advantage you have in a small car. Handling. Plenty of other v6s out there...

My 20 valve got 425klm off of 32 litres while highway driving last week, which I thought to be very good for an after market ecu tune. If I make it fun like Ill get 480-500klms from 45 litres before fuel surge kicks in. I guess thats 10-11 klm/litre if I'm enjoying myself, or 13 if I put around. I'm ultra conscious of fuel consumption and mileage traveled as I have neither an odometer or fuel gauge. I'm at the point now where I just get a feeling I need to fill up. When my car was running but not properly tuned I got 300klms from 45 litres.

Congratulations Justin. Have a good one.

No idea. Perhaps trendact knows whats going on.

Curious to see how light they can make it. I think mine is 5.5kg, and it has the edges removed and the back hollowed out from the factory. Ill try find a pic. Do they remove any material from the edge?