LittleRedSpirit

So hes had his 15 minutes? Corey who?

You will need to get the wheels, the tyres, then put them on, jam an old shocky or suitable strong steel tube into the gap at the bottom and roll it through, over the tyre. If this doesn't bend the lip up and outwards enough you're going to need the help of a panel beater, or some flares. If you get 15x7s, you will need an offset of about +4 to +10 to fill the gaurds pretty well completely. I have some +1 offset 15x7s and they only barely fit with a fair bit of bending and bullshit.

If youve got an oem clutch you probly have 100,000klms yet of hard street driving before you need to bother.

Yep, it was me, I cut through Ippy thanks to the arsehole roadworks on the Warrgeo.

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Hope they will swap em over for you!!!

A clutch is a clutch. If you have a 16 valve 4age then you wont really start killing a standard clutch very fast with hard driving. That said, there can be incremental slip at high load or rpm. You only will need an uprated clutch if you are noticing the limits of the old one. Otherwise its a big expense and hassle to fit with no real gain. Finish which ever one is in the car off properly, get as much use as you can from it. Whether this means thrashing it so it dies fast, or whether it takes years. I don't see any point having a 350hp clutch in a 150 hp car. If it hooks up hard enough to spin the wheels it should be ok for a while. When you change clutches, you will find that even a gze clutch would fit, and they are around 220mm from memory, and AE92/20valve size which is 212. Its up to you, the most surface area is what you want i guess. Although with a 16v 4age you wont be finding too many limits of the 200mm one either. A light weight flywheel will have a noticeable improvement, by allowing the engine to rev freer, and accelerate harder, albeit with more throttle input. My AE111 4age flywheel is under 6kg factory, and what this means is I give it lots of throttle going up hills, maybe 30%, then 0% coming down the other side, and about 5% on the flat areas. This is compared to a heavy standard flywheel of around 10kg, which would see around 20% up, 5% down and maybe 8-10% on the flat. Hope this helps, some of your sentences were formed a bit funny, but you did pretty well!

I don't know if I actually want to own it, maybe just drive it around for an hour or two.

Just send Gilly a PM. Hes on quite a bit.

Swap it for a bigger motor of the same series. If its a 4k, swap for a 5k. Looks the same, goes much better with more torque and HP.

Very very tidy, any more big mods on the horizon?

Max respect for finding the loophole after no-one else was able to. Your the man, ah yeah. :)

4.3 is just an example I made up, who knows what your car is running really. All 4ages are short on torque, with heads designed by Yamaha. Think lightweight, high revving motorcycle design cues in the head. Therefore any weight you can save is wonderful. Unsprung weight is best to avoid. Yes the bead is as youve decribed. Do not guess width according to tyre size because you can get a 185 on a 9j if you want to. Some people say stupid stuff like, they must be 8jS, they had 225s on them. Measure everything.

You will need ae86 struts as well.

No sweat mate, Ive always got time to help people who use punctuation and grammar, and ask thoughtful questions. The one critiscism ill make of MA61 wheels is the weight of them. A nice racing wheel like a superlight should weigh between 4.5 and 6kg. MA rims may be around 8 or 9kg, someone may confirm this more accurately. I tend to get meshies cause even cheap ones are very light. If I was buying new superlights id get them in 15x7 + 8 (just like the MAs') or as close to as possible. +25 will need spacers. Make sure you measure the rim width from inside of bead to inside of bead. Not from the outside. 7J means 7 inches from inner edge to inner edge. don't get caught out. The effects of too big a wheel can be as follows: 1. Skatey feel on the road. 2. Larger rolling diameter means more scrubbing, don't increase your rolling diameter by any more than 15mm ever. 3. Larger rolling diameter means you are making your gearing taller, so your 4.3 diff becomes more like 4.1. This makes the car accelerate slower. Boring. 4. Just the whole feel of the car changes. Its hard to say exactly what it is but it just feels wrong. Tryit and feel for yourself. It didnt make me confident to nail corners at all.

What a naive idea. Nothing good can possibly come of this. Sounds like some idealistic tripe thought up by some 12 year old wannabe activists who havent yet grasped any concepts of economics. Ill be sure and fill up all 3 cars on the day.

MA rims fit really well, unless you put long lower control arms on like sigma arms, may need a good flare then. The best way to know what wheels will fit over the brakes, will be to see how big a wheel the Peugeot that the disks are from came with. I think, depending on caliper you can get 280-290mm rotors under a 15 inch rim. Much bigger than 15 or 16 in my opinion is too big for a ke70, but this is a topic of much debate. When I say too big I'm speaking from a handling point of view, and a looks point of view, thats my opinion. The main problem is that a rolling diameter to suit a 17 or 18 inch rim is too big, although not a massive increase, it does funny things to the handling. Can scrub too, depending on offset. For offset you want a low positive to low negative rim. Id say +22 to -8 could be considered, depending on width of the bead also, and how much you're willing to stretch a tyre. A standard ke70 rim has approximately 11.5cm of back space. If you increase control arm length or run spacers you can skeak a bit more out of it, but I stick to rims with less than 11.5cm backspace to be sure. An 8j is probably the biggest you'll easily fit. 7j is plenty to keep you stuck down usually. Sadly its usually a case of wait and see when fitting wheels. When you buy wheels you should look for ones that have added clearance in them compared to other wheels. Its also best to buy ones where the spoke area is offset away from the mounting face. Some brake upgrades require not just diameter clearance, but spoke clearance. Spacers can cure this, but then offset is modified too, so more gaurd woes.

I didn't critiscise how they work, just the category the car was aimed at, and its lack of style. It was a bad move. You can take it however you want but at the end of the day, the problem is the car. Not the workers or the factory. I have a 2006 Triton V6. Its Rear Wheel Drive. I know what I want from a car and the 380 isnt it.

Obviously they wanted some of Toyotas market share, or it would have been rear wheel drive and aimed more squarely at Holden and Ford. I say well done to Toyota for crushing the inferior product. Its probably not that bad a car, but there was nothing new or different about it except the Aussie connection. Australians must care too much about the enjoyment of driving to drive a slab sided, front wheel drive, patriotic econobox. Sad for the workers, but seriously, they couldnt give them away. Even a 10 year warranty couldn't sell these things. Wrong car for our market. If they made it an affordable rear wheel drive mid-size platform, they might have had a different result. Thanks for nothing Mitsubishi. Stick to Tritons and Pajeros from now on, ok.

First off, will the car be able to be roadworthied, considering your putting a 92 model engine in a 98 model chassis? If your confident its ok then you don't need to worry so much about all the wires for the 4afe having to connect up. Approach it from the point of view of what the 4age needs, it gets. After its all hooked up, if you can make the cruise control, air con, and other electronics work thats a bonus. I'm assuming that you have got all the engine wiring fairly well hooked up to the 16 valve ecu? Is it running? Be more specific in your questions, punctuate, form sentences and help us to know what wires your talking about.

I believe KE70 manuals are 4.1:1 The autos are 4.3:1 The ae71 manual is 3.9 The ae71 Auto? no idea.. anyone? Ill sticky this if its not already...

Hope youve got plenty of spare door cards... Coming up nice mate.

Like all cars there is a vin number - Stamped on the firewall above the motor.

Gotta Love Beallys sense of humour...

Looks tidy trev. Ill drop off the sandwhich plate one arvo after work as I'm passing through. don't know where I could get a Twinky wheel like yours do you? Cops say my face grater has to go.... The badge looks cool, I'm really starting to like mine on the front too. Dunno about the removed bit though....

They are getting harder to get but still around. Best to find an old rusted out 71 in a paddock somewhere and rape and pillage it for parts. Then you get everything to make it manual in one go. It can be very costly to buy it all piece at a time. I know its hard, but how much actual effort have you put in? Minutes? Hours? They're out there......... Hang out in a hospital carpark and have them come to you in overrated condition several times a day. The only parts that are hard to get are the pedal boxes, and Gearbox cross members. You would be best advised to buy new master and slave cylinders, make a new piece of solid line yourself with a flaring tool and then get a custom rubber connection made to join at right angles to the slave. You need to do this to make the exhaust fit past. Id say all this new stuff would cost no more than 150 dollars. Youll pay that again for a pedal box these days easily. All the other engine specific mounts come in an auto 4ac car so you will be sorted if you buy an Auto 71.