LittleRedSpirit

Have a good look at the diff, if it was Australian delivered your car may have a diff like our ke70s, except I don't think its an Australian delivered model. Ive seen those in Europe and Japan only so far. So you never know, have a good look at the diff and see what the axle code is on the compliance plate.

That was amazing. How the heck did you keep it together?

Just wondering, whats the driveline your gonna run? Obviously ae82 4age once the conversion is done, and I'm guessing a T50 would be the logical option, and what diff does it have? What was the old motor? 4k?, 2t?. No too familiar with those. Is it a te70? Also, what can you use panel wise from an ae82 seca? Are you just gonna use it as raw sheetmetal? Or are some of the pressings the same?

You need to check the hooning laws and car mod guidelines in your state, then get back to us with a basic framework of what you can do.

The coilovers will fit with ke70 strut tops. AE86 strut tops give dodgy castor in a ke70. The parts in general are all bolt in replacements, this goes for diffs, shocks, springs, lower control arms, struts, panhard rods, rear swaybars, not sure about front. If you want to street it but have a little negative camber try xt130 lower control arms, for -1.5 degrees of camber, or sigma lower control arms for a bit more, like maybe -4 degrees. Use RA40 tie rod ends to make the steering meet up. If you lower it significantly you will need roll centre adjusters to reset the steering geometry. I'm not really going to give any more info here, as its all been covered time and time again in dozens of threads. Also, read the faq link above in full, and use the search function. If you can't find any info your not looking hard enough.....

Motor looks great guys, and lets cross fingers for a long and happy life for it.

This thread makes baby jesus cry.

Mate, you would paste commodores all over the highway with a 302 in the beast. Id prefer a 308 if I was gonna do something silly, as I prefer the noise. Obviously your not gonna street it so do whatever you want eh, Id usually slam this idea as ridiculous but after seeing that other 302 rolla.....

Ummmm, magnet.

Compared to most engines, 4ages are quite sound and made to take a bit of a beating straight out of the box, in whatever form they take. Keep fresh oil in em and get good tuning and they will go hard for years. Its very comforting for me to hear your experiences toyocharged, and backs up the way my ae111 engine has responded to what i've been doing, and my rev limiter is only a mild 8000rpm. You wont get a poorly designed motor whichever one you purchase.

There goes my dream of pitching a car show.

No-one is really gonna tell you to be dodgy and condone it, you have to make that decision on your own.

If no-ones gonna help Emerson then I may have to close this one boys. Enough about 308s ok, back to beloved 4as. Any more wisdom to share that might make his decision easier?

Well I am a moderator and I'm happy for anyone to contribute any way they can without getting personal or threatening. If it takes a spirited discussion for all the facts to come out then whats the problem? If we were even the slightest bit off topic then I would gladly accept critiscism.

Look mate, this is the post you should have written first time around. If you can't be bothered giving the reasons or explanations for what your trying to say, don't bother with anything. Read your first post then this one one after another. See how the second one contradicts the first? To someone who doesn't know this stuff the post you did first up was misleading and assumptive. I could tell what you were trying to say, you just never actually said any of it with enough detail o help anybody do anything. I don't care what another forum or its members have to say. When we realise that its not information, I will relax. Don't ever post any info you've not witnessed for yourself. There are hundreds of myths that people who ignore science spread all around with all things. What you read on forums isn't gospel, its other peoples anecdotal experience, and could be poorly explained and misleading. The authority with which you sprayed all that stuff in the first post could easily mislead someone with little or no knowledge of the topic. Its got to stop. Talk about your own experiences. I guarantee you mr tuff nuts with his full house 4a 16v is only repeating to you his mild undestanding of what the person who actually built his motor told him. Its chinese whispers sometimes with this garbage information that people 'share'. If you haven't been there and done it your just wasting everyones time and detracting from the features of this site and the integrity of our search function. All that stuff about 20valves not performing. You do understand that people have home done installs with little or no knowledge of mechanicals and auto electrics, couple that with our lack of 110ron fuel like the japs have. You do realise dyno figures are one of the most misleading and wholeheartedly incorrect ways of comparing two mechanical systems? My dyno tuner refuses to graph torque since its always completely off on a dyno, for example. Nothing personal, Ill rip anyone who does this. Its clear that you know this info and could contribute wonderfully, so why don't you?

Yes, I believe so, it will need engineering and to be inspected at qld transport, but really only for the engine number change and modified vehicle details. Check with your own government because it varies wildly from state to state. A good engineer and a sensible owner will want to upgrade their brakes and suspension to boot in most cases I would say.

OK the first one was great, but now I want to have another one soon. Once again, if you don't have access to the private discussion, submit yourself here and well get you into the discussion.

As the criteria goes in QLD, you don't technically need for a mod plate in that case. KE70 you would, since you are upping capacity. AE71 is same capacity, atmo anyhow, efi doesn't affect the rules either, has standard mounts, gearbox, etc. Its just a replacement engine really. If you do a surge tank maybe that needs to be looked at, but I have a baffled tank. They don't ask about power figures. I had the lady at the DOT look at mine and I'm sure she only pretended she could see the engine number, as it was under a hot exhaust. Do what you have to do.

Why don't you chuck a 5k or a 7k in. Looks much like a 4k and get a fair bit more go... You could convince them its just a replacement engine surely.

Thats a real shame, I hope someone can help you here and get you moving. Try a want to buy in the for sale section if you like, may get more specific attention that way. Matt

So rip the shitty standard manifolds off it and modify it till its the toughest bottom end around. Get full custom pipework for intake and exhaust, fmic, maybe a 4age head, disco potato, dyno tune and thrash it soooo hard that it makes you forget all those bad standard turbo warranty claims.

Most aftermarket cams use a longer duration than what is possible with vvt. Simple as that. Stock intake duration is 250 degrees in 20v, not too bad really. 240 in a bigport, and 232 in the smallports and gzes. Ignoring the fact that it has an extra valve per cylinder; lets just say you took an 86kw 4age and spent a bit of money on it. Got yourself some mild cams, a bit of extra lift, lightened internals, coated pistons, added itbs. What have you spent? 2 or three grand at least, and you have similar basic hardware to a 20 valve. Weigh that up against the added cost of a 20 valve install, with a cheaper motor possibly if you use a silvertop, which could be 750 dollars from most places. So your buying an ecu, which will be able to be adapted to almost any car you will build in the near future, money well spent. The motor itself. Get a loom made, maybe 500 dollars. Some engineering like the water kit, cas blockoff and extractors, another 600. Still havent built our hot 16v yet in real dollar for dollar terms. I whole heartedly disagree.

20v = Revs to 8000, makes more power, less torque, prick to install due to fwd conversion and distributor hits firewall, requiring aftermarket ecu. 16v Bigport = Easy install, rwd parts from factory, standard ecu is fine, , yank one out of an ae82 and get to work, by far the best bang for buck and locally delivered so parts are easy to get. 16v smallport = A little rarer, still pretty common, much like bigport, fairly easy to install, will require a cut and shut manifold will it not? Standard ecu is fine.

This 'info' is such tripe. Opinions only. Read the rollaclub faq, and this page: http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock.htm This is a whole bunch of misconceptions, misleading assumptions and I'm sorry to say inexperience speaking. Nothing personal Hiro, but its crap. Rebuttal:

I too have considered this option, at this point in time its too exotic to do easily and cheaply, especially when you consider that there is the savage power delivery at 6000rpm, and very little to get excited about before that. Bang for buck its probly the worst conversion out there that you could do. If I was going to the lengths that you would need to go to to pull it off Id much rather have a Beams 3sge. They really arent that heavy, Not a whole much more weight than a 4agte setup would have. I prefer cast iron blocks because of their integrity and ability to deal with temperature extremes without warping. The reliability issues people speak of have been cooked valves from what I have read, and was a specific problem in the US market, where the base octane level in fuel is 89. Go figure.