LittleRedSpirit

So thats two...

http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page http://www.google.com http://www.toymods.net/forums/ http://www.hasselgren.com/products.html http://www.onthenet.com.au/~paulp/Blacktop/ http://www.toyotareference.com/#CO http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock.htm http://videos.streetfire.net/search/rolla/...87000f2859d.htm READ ALL THE INFO YOU CAN FIND FROM THESE LINKS AND GOOGLE YOUR OWN QUESTIONS. Most people who take on this sort of project do a shitload of research first. Decide on engine, decide on chassis, decide on management, decide on diff/drive train combo, decide on fuel system. Weigh it all up against whats legal in your state, then once all your research is done, you can ask us a few questions to fill in the blanks. If you want to know the difference go to the wreckers with a digital camera and take a few photos. Walk back and forth to compare for yourself. No-one is going to answer all your questions, when most of them can be answered with research.

I know places can charge up to 1000 dollars for a full engine rewire. I have friend who can do it for around the 500 dollar mark. Just depends really on what needs to be done. The fwd loom will need some areas shortened or lengthened to fit neatly. How will you get past the dizzy issue anyhow? Do you realise you will need a surge tank and pump setup in the 71 to make it work? I don't mean to discourage you, I just think you need to do some more research first. Also, please use punctuation and correct spelling and grammar here. No-one really responds to people who don't care enough to clearly and concisely state their ideas or concerns.

Well I didnt go on the last cruise and thank god for that. My dash may not be 100% legal yet. The point is, I'd like to go cruising with a few members in early November, before the silly season really takes hold. If anyones interested please pm me. I do not wish to discuss where and when on a public forum. All Ill say is I'm thinking sunny coast and hinterland. PM me if you are keen and Ill PM you my thoughts on exactly where and when.

Most people use 4ages. There is a reason for this. Perhaps you could read through all the builds and see whats up for a while, before you start.

No I actually mean colling of course. Someone better ask the dizzy question ......

Couldnt have said it better myself. Are the rb30 alloy or steel block? Id only consider it if it were all alloy. Will it hit your steering or swaybar?

I'm sure you will sort it all out. Any questions just ask. don't forget about the search function, solves most of my problems.

Yes. There was no-one on the other end, and no net till morning.

No worries. They don't have a webpage, and I actually demanded progress on the interweb from them when I spoke to them. lol. Anyhow, There is a picture of the top front hose in the for sale section that ke25 racer took (i bought the item from him). I guess these guys have quite a market with all the clubman fogies getting into 4as. They have custom castings and billet stuff in the kits, looks awesome. Much neater than my tigged housings. Never asked the dizzy question....

We have some wheel fitment issues. Need massive flaring job pronto.

That is definately a silvertop 20 valve 4age. From an AE101/111 corolla, Japan only model. To RWD it on a standard computer is very hard without firewall mods, 3 custom water fittings, etc. It is a terrific motor as far as reliability and power from a small engine goes. They have a nasty power curve that just keeps building all the way to 7800rpm. Serious top end for an atmo 1.6litre. Beerhead has an adaptronic ecu and loom for sale to suit this motor, for only 800 dollars. If you want to run this motor in rwd without too many hassles, that would be your best bet, IMO. You really shouldn't mod or bash your firewall unless its a race only car, in a class that permits mods of this nature. The adaptronic will let you put a billet cover over the dizzy and use its pulses as a cam angle sensor and then calculate its own ignition timing from that. There are a few DLI converter boxes aound to make the standard ecu work, with a removed dizzy, but they are super hard to find and you would need to get new coils and igniters to make it work anyhow. The DLI boxes were made in short supply by Anthony Kellam to make these motors RWDable. I have only ever seen one, and it was sold over a year ago. You could talk to Yager motorsport about the water fittings. They are in Victoria, and don't have a web page, but they can sort you out and put you on the right path with a nice billet rwd water kit. Anyhow, good luck. Maybe the leads you got were for an ae101 4afe? Who knows. They are of little use to you if you arent able to mod the firewall anyhow. What is the part number of the leads you bought? What you may have is a blacktop with silvertop cover and the only way to tell this definitively is to pull the airbox off and measure the quads. They should be 50mm at the trumpeted end facing the airbox. Id say this is highly unlikely as the airbox is all silvertop too. Also, the silvertop 4age runs an airflow meter, which you will need to keep to put in the standard ecu, so a custom airbox is needed too, or a pricey map sensored blacktop ecu, which probly wont run just right from what I hear.

Didnt get any hail, but the lightning struck the power pole down the road and it made our phone ring.

What the funk is that?!! Got torque? Surely it doesnt have rego...

Some new wheels to hopefully make her a bit nicer to drive. Also, a new Dayton head unit, scored for 50 dollars. The lowballing continues... Cheers to Terry for the wheels. Also, noticed the 4k has extractors. Nice. Super dish Jellybeans FTW.

Yager Performance 10 Russelton Drv Alstonville NSW 2477 ph: (02) 6628 0247 These guys do a billet 20 valve RWD colling kit. The whole kit retails for around 240 dollars, which is bargain basement cheap. I paid about 200 to have mine modded, so thats awesome for billet.

Yeah the 4k wont die for a while. gettin rego with that. need a thing or two to get it running with 4a power.

Well Mr Brown has a new diff! When I say new I of course mean old and rusty, but still working. The one from the white car was used. I'm relieved to say it is silent to use because I had no way to check whether it was ruined before putting it in. Gotta love corollas. Now that thats over, I need to touch up some rust repairs and paint over the undercoat, check the lights, change a tail light and shes ready to RWC. Woot, Cost to date, 300 for the car, 50 dollars for degreaser, wd, spray putty and diff oil. Still has half a tank of fuel. Thanks for that Jono.

XF stylee.

If its a liftback you wont get too much. Possibly the ugliest car ever. Any rust? I once got a rusted liftback one for 150 dollars.

Buffed it yet?

Good to see its out there getting some serious hours under its belt. You have too much time and money. Can you tell how jealous I am?

Cheers Matt. I reckon the 71 is just too far gone to use. The deciding factor was it wont be able to be put on a hoist due to rust in the sills and arches. I may cut out under the back windscreen to weld into old beigey at some stage, but I'm not really too fussed. That will only be if I get her painted though. I may be more likely to splurge on some 2pak soon, as I have found a great paint shop to use. Dynamic Finish at Ada St Coopers Plains. They are really big on guide coats, and that means mirror finishes.

Some pictures as promised.

Spotted, I mean overtook, a green twincam AE82. Looks like metallic Holden Green. Had Bright yellow rollaclub URL on the back screen, and a new style RC logo on the RHS quaterglass. Had a burly looking bald dude at the wheel. don't you love describing someone on a first impression. Anyhow, I was in the Triton, and this took place at the rest area near the Bremer river on the Ipswich motorway. Keep Rollin....