Redwarf

Having mot half an hour ago finished pulling a pedal box out of a 20 I can tell you a number of things. It took me about 30 minutes (using air tools) to remove. Three bolts holding steering column, three nuts holding on wiper motor (pray to god you never have to change one of these) and the bolts holding the forward end to the bulkhead, for this car it was five nuts/ bolts, your's will probably have three or four, as this one had been modded. Disconnect the brake light switch, the clutch cable and brake MC pushrod, then reef, pull, twist and generally root around until it comes out. I also removed the attach bracket that goes between the steering column, and the PB. You may also want to remove the dash for better access to the top bolts, add 5 to 20 minutes for this depending on who's been at the car before you. Installation is the reverse, and will realistically take about twice as long as removal. *Disclaimer: These times are a rough guide. I used a rattle gun and an air ratchet on everything, have access to good tooling, and I know my way around a twenty fairly well. * Hope this helps. R

Felix is in the process of doing this very conversion.....

Overspray is you're friend... :)

Spray the car, mow the grass, nobody will know the difference. Booths are good, but if you take the time to do it properly, you can do it just as well in your garage.

I was under the impression there was a limited number of 1600s coupe released here, although not very many at all.....

Well, I'm at it again. With the introduction of the Evo 2 Corolla, sadly the original car just doesn't cut it anymore. :( Don't get me wrong, it goes competently enough for what it is, but I have stumbled upon an opportunity to have the car I've always wanted. A week and a half ago I purchased for the right price an ex-hillclimb KE20 with a 2TG, T50 and a Celica diff. I now intend to build a TE27 Replica. Why do this when I already have a TE37 replica? Because I can. :) So, now after 15 years of ownership, I'm now enbarking on the 4th serious rebuild of the car. First stop is to strip the 20 of all it's goods. Engine came out today (88222 head on it), and the gearbox. It's a T50 with a cable operated clutch. Piccies soon. :) Panhard rod mounts removed. Pedal box half out (for Doug, bastard job, I may double the price...), next is to pull the suspension which is all Celica. Don't know what I'm going to do with it at the moment, as Evo1 does have good shit in the handling department. Just ask Fook. :D Lots of piccies to be taken, updates as we go along. Cheers R

Woooo, that sucks. :)

A wreckers that always has Corolla parts is Kelly's in Carseldine. Give them a try. *Mod note: Topics merged.*

That sounds about right. That's what I'd expact mine to come in at. I understand it's quite hard to get them under 950 in the trim we need them... It still makes evo1's 841kg's look tidy though. :)

Felix would be able to give you a difinitive answer, but I would say no to both. I know 20 to 25 are definitely different.....

Too big, I'll tell you that for free. :D There also rare and expensive. Talk to someone like Brown Davis, they're in Bayswater last time I looked, they do things like custom LR tanks for 4x4's. I'm sure they'd be able to do something for you if you're intersted. I know up here you have to be accreditted to weld fuel tanks.

We used to chop out the spare wheel wells on RX3's and run a pair of mufflers under the boot to shut them up on he road. (The was a flange just aft of the axle and on race day we could change mufflers in about 15 minutes.) Not hard to do, just need to find somewhere for the spare, either that or carry a spare-in-a-can. :D Getting a tank custom made is where the money would be.

AFAIK the "J" on a wheel rim has nothing to do with offset, and more to do with the bead seating area.

Woooo, bugger.

Nope, not really. I use regrinds in my race motors, and other bits usually give up before the cam. :D Where abouts are you? I have a number of spare camshafts lying about.

Wade Cams are also another good one if you're down south.

You need an engineers to pull the back seat in Vic?? I just rolled up to Vicroads, told them it was a two seater, the man looked at the car, saw it wasn't going back in in a hurry, and changed the paperwork. Things must have changed. I can't really give a good figure on what it's worth, as I didn't pay full price for either my Vic or Qld reports. I will confirm that the Vic one was more expensive. R

A small price to pay if you want to stay legal and be covered by insurance. I think you'll find that most of the engineering can be done by phone, and then present the car for final inspection when you happen to be in the same place. I had a car engineered in Victoria (where the car was rego'd) whilst I lived in QLD. Everything is possible, you just have to put your mind to it. You live in Tamworth, I'm sure there's an engineer closer than Sydney to you.

At a guess it will be too narrow. Is this a standard KE10 diff, or something like a Celica diff cut down??

AFAIK, you're bang on the money. That's the main difference.

Yes and no. They are interchangable, however, I believe them to be constructed differently internally. (2 door model..)

.... Until the day you crash it and insurance won't come to the party because it isn't engineered. For (&*^% sake people, get'em engineered, it isn't as big and scary as one would expect.

Well, there we go. There is one to store up in the memory! Thanks for coming back with the solution. R

*Warning: I know nothing about 4AGE's!* My guess is you would be chasing a 4A item from an AE71 or an AE86.

I hate to break it to you, but I use Monotorque gaskets, and I've never in recent history retorqued a head. Sorry. :P Once upon a time though, it was a must.