Redwarf

.... and making yourself look like a complete tool. Wheel bearings maybe. How much meat is on the brake pads? Does it feel suspension? The jerking could possibly be something flogged out. Maybe a trip to Pedders for a $14 check? They'll also tell you about CV's and the like,too.They'll soon tell you if anything is REALLY bad, and smile sweetly and say "I'll think about it " for everything else. :y: R

A 7K crank has no hope what so ever of fitting in a 3K. A 4K crank struggles to fit, let alone a bigger one.

Originally Psi. But it'll do 180kph at full noise. 4AGE is a different kettle of fish. You said 4A, which it will crap over. I can't legally run a 4AG in PRC rallying.

Psi, kph, either one will do. :y:

Hey! I resemble that remark! My 3/4K banged out 180-190 when fresh. 10.9 cr. I don't think it does that now after 3 years of raping. Ummmm..... No. That engine would definitely have more stick than a 4A. A 4A woukd also have not tolerated the "spirited driving" that this engine has put up with.

Dude, listen to Felix, the man knows. I'm not fan of down drafts at the best of times (I think they make excellent paper weights), but the smaller one is the go if you have to.

There is an early and a late clutch. Get a later flywheel, machine it and use that, with a later clutch.

Yes, you can fit a 4K crank into a 3K. Yes you can run the longer rods. Yes you can use Charade pistons with modification so all this fits together. Counter boring the head slightly also helps. 4K crank does bolt in, but clearance work is required. The pistons I run (and I can't remember the size, 78mm maybe?) makes the 3K engine 1359.9 cc. Not an easy job, and no one likes a cheater.

That's why I asked if he was in Bendigo Car Club. :cool: Spanner has been at it for longer than I have, and that's saying something.

VERY grey area, and I wouldn't like to push the matter. But hey, that's just me. :P

Having discussed this with an associate who issues road worthies, you must have a bumper of some sort. If you don't, you will be defected.

Ah- ha! I was wondering where this thread had got to. I've found that in the past, bolts like this have broken generally in shear application, and are usually very easy to remove with a drill and ezi-out. The problem with drilling it out also is making sure that you run square all the way down the hole. Not easy. Cheers Rob

Take them out and heat them up. Do about ten hard stops from the wrong side of 60. That should bed them in. Basically you want to be able to smell em. The Lucas pads that I'm running need to be taken to fade before they start working properly.

Are you using the old shell, or are you reshelling? I (maybe mistakenly :harhar:) thought you were reshelling into a good KE70?

I can see a problem with adr 6 for a start. Bumpers are an integral part of the frontal impact protection zone. And there is issues with pedestrian safety, too. Yes you must have them. Yes you will get defected if you don't. You've still got to go trough the exercise of blue plates yet, too. :harhar:

Yep, nice bit of kit that one. In it's day, Brian Semmons one was just as good, although I understand it's a bit tired now.

Yep, Sure are. My suggestion would be 170 to 200lb max initially if you're going to pkay on dirt as well. I had 225's in my rally setup, however I would have run lighter if I didn't have ground clearance issues. A bit of neg camber and you can also get a little more castor (by threading the castor rod more) will also make a big improvement. I wouldn't lower it by too much, 25mm to 40mm would be ample. Are you a member of Bendigo Car club? Cheers R

What exactly are you looking to do with the car? Jamie's advice earier is in the ball park for a nice streetable 20 series club car. I ran my 25 for years with 170lb springs, then 200's, then I ended up with 225's on my adjustable sruts. All three were different set up's for differing purposes as the car developed. Rear springs used to be standard leaf pack reset, and ended up as a standard pack plus an 8mm leaf. No change in swaybars. This set up works for me, but it was the way I liked the car. Set up is very personal, and even with the same set up on paper, cars will still handle differently. Geometry is also very important as well. Get into Puhn if you want to get serious with that.

Some very late 20's had them. Rare though.

Leave the T50 behind it (I assume it's a t50?) for now. Unless you're pushing big hp, you wont do much to it. The standard ratios suck arse with a standard diff ratio, but different diff ratios and box ratios are easily available. It all comes down to how much you want to spend. R

Carby Cleaner is THE goods. Engine polish in a can.

^^^^^ As above. At the end of the day, a good spring and shock package is a must. Some people have used swaybars in the past to try and mask inadequicies in the rest of the suspension, and that's not the way to go. Suspension is very much personal choice, and I suscribe to a different philosophy to Fook, however, the end results are similar.

I think you should stop shouting.

I was more thinking of evo1. It sits a hell of a lot more flat than evo2 does. I really don't like the roll in Evo2, but I'm changing springs agian, and a set of re-valved Billies should help too. Evo 1 sat much better on the raod, the photo shows it in dirt trim, slightly higher than standard, under fairly serious cornering load. Realistically, that isn't a whole lot of body roll. There is less in road trim. Photos to bve added when I work it out...)

No, I do work for an appoved engineer. There's a fine difference. I do work for a number of different people/ companies.