Redwarf

Yep, I seem to get two a week. Nothing new here. Usual email scam.

Okay. Now before everybody flames you into next week, there's a few things you ought to know. (Welcome by the way. :D) This site has a wealth of information in relaton to KE70's, and a number of guru's who really know what they're on about. If you use the search button above ^^^^^^ and type in ...say..... KE70, or just generally stooge around the site abit, you'll find that the simplist conversion s to put a 4AGE motor in. (twin cam, 16 valve 1600cc.) All the info you could ever want is kicking around in here somewhere, it just needs to be found. I'll now shut this thread for your own protection. ;) R

Can be done, not a bolt in job though. I consider there to be other, better conversions to do. A standard L20 isn't really a thing of beauty either.

I have TA22 struts in the front of my 55. I'm using the original 55 arms (sort of, the important thing is that the bits that count are 55). I didn't build this car, however, I believe that the 22 tubes may have been cut and shut onto the 55 stubs. Top mounts are also 55. I'll take some piccies if you're interested, however the struts are at one of my sponsers at the moment (Pedders Suspension, Geebung :D ), so I may not be able to get them until the weekend. R

Cruisen Auto Spares in Nambour. If you want one, I can get it to BNE.

http://www.uploadready.com/v/9960452/1976.wmv 1976(?) Lombard rally. Escort city. Mikkola in a TE27 Corolla. :D Worth downloading just to hear the Stratos picking gears on the straight.

Basically keep adjusting until I'm happy. One side isn't as straight as the other. It's also a case of finding what works for me. This car isn't going to need to be as aggresive on the front end figures as the old one, but it's still nice to have the adjustment.

At a guess, it'll be between 35-50 Amps.

Chain blocks do the same thing, and can be cheaper. Yes, you and a mate, and preferably another mate to guide things, can remove a 3k with a bit of Armstrong engineering. You don't even need to take the head off, although it makes thing easier. We never used to bother. All you need is a length of chain, and a long pole/ lump of wood. Done it a number of times. Find a really strong mate, and you can pull the box out with it. I used to do it with me and my mate Batch on one side, and another mate, Neville (LARGE gentleman) on the other. Do yourself a favour, don't do the rings and bearings in car, pull the motor out.

Further update. Gearbox now at Hart Transmissions, along with my 4.5 diffs for the EVO1. (Yep, I'm getting that going as well!). Gearbox was having issues with 4th gear; hard to find, and hard to get out of. It was okay in stage, as it went into gear whether it liked it or not :D but a PITA on transports. Also finished (finally) my adjustable lower arms. (Disclaimer: yes, I know they're not legal.)

Excellent! *Click*

Hmmmm. Been a while since I've been in here. Haven't touched the car since Galllangowan (last rally of last year) so a bit of digital extraction has been happening in Redwarf Motorsport HQ. As anyone who has talked to me since I got this beasty will know the handling both sucks and blows on this car. I've found out why. Pulled the front struts out and found the most basic Pedders shock that Centrelink can buy residing inside them. That now explains a lot. All that I can now say is " g0t Bilsteins?" Yep, I spent some cash and have a pretty set of 32mm shaft upside-down shocks for the front, and a set of Commodore wagon shocks for the back. Together with my adjustable lower control arms, things should be a lot better. New vs Old front shock. (Nice feet Idiot) Rears. I think the old one may already have been a Commodore item.

Which year??

Dude, Yellowpages are your friend. Try ABS or Checkpoint or even Repco. All of the above would also have kits to redo them, however, unless you have a honing tool, it can be a bit pointless rebuilding them. By what you're saying, It's knackered. Let your fingers do the walking.

Good question to which I don't know the real answer to. However, after some thought you can probably break it down into two options. The first is when the KE20 update came out, which I think was 73, or the fact that there were Aussie built 20's and jap built 20's. I like the first theory actually. I've always thought of them as early and late springs. Anyone else??

Was at the Kilcoy track in November. Unfortunately it was still a paddock at that point. Plans look great and I can't wait for it to open.

You asked, I gave. A couple of points. One: Contrary to some opinions in here, I'm not a dud. Two: It's spelt "Engineering". It's done by "engineers". I happen to be one. As such, I can happily ask the question "will it fit" knowing that the strut towers limit the room available to insert engine. Unless one is going to install a wishbone set-up, you may wish to consider the limitations. And, as an engineer, I honestly would like to see the finished result, even if it isn't my cup of tea. No.... Really. I would. R R

I think it's a dumb idea. But hey, that's just me. Ummmm...... will it fit? I don't think the engine bay is wide enough.....

Bloke comes along, bloke winches car, bloke drives away. Easy. :) Dude, you shouldn't use the chain to hold a car, PARTICULARLY on a hire trailer. Tie downs are a must. Trust me.

Hi, sorry I didn't get back to you the other day, been a bit busy. Yes, I have a car trailer. No, I don't lend it. Sorry. Normally I'd be happy to tow it around for you, however, life is a bit hectic at the moment, and have zero time to spare. You can probably get a tow truck for around the $40 to $50 mark. Remember, if you get a trailer, you've got to be able to tie it down, too.

Main bearing bolts: 48 lb/ft Conrod nuts: 38 lb/ft Cam sproket bolt: 22 lb/ft Fly wheel bolts: 48 lb/ft Clutch bolts: 9 lb/ft Head bolts: per gasket recommendation. They're the only ones I'd really worry about. All the rest are just "tight". Happy engine building! :)

Hope you don't have to get to this point... :)

^^^^^^^^^^ Was that post really necessary??? It didn't really say anything that hasn't already been said.

No it's not the speedo cable. Either do the mental maths and live with it, or you can get it recalibrated. Or use bigger tyres.

My 25 doesn't tramp, and it has a locker, and has done for a long time. Correct leaf pack set and decent shocks go a long way to eliminating it. My 3K is pushing just under 120hp at the wheels, and I find that I snap axles with the current set up. I have it going through a sprung centre ceramic clutch, which probably doen't help either. Try it with the standard, it's already there. If you're still concerned, go T-series. I bang 145hp through my LSD with no problems in the 55. R