Redwarf

Now, as your rose joint is significantly smaller than the original end to the lower control arm, you need to make up a couple of spacers. Spacers should be made from some sort of robust metal, and not be too large so as to interfere with the movement of the rose joint.

However. Getting much more than 2.5 to 3 degrees out of the rubber bushings, isn't that easy, as, although it has some give, it does say enough at a certain point. You can get around this a number of ways. The way I chose was by rose jointing the lower control arm. (Disclaimer: This method is frowned upon by most departments of transport!) Right. Now we have that out of the way, this is achieved by cutting your lower control arm, welding a decent sized hunk of steel into the end, drilling it, and then tapping it to the desired rose joint size. Piccies below gives a good idea of what is to be done.

Now, by lengthening your lower control arms, you are therefore pushing the point at which your castor rod mounts out from the car(Blue line). Your castor rod, being a defined length(yellow), will at the same time, swing the lower control arm forward (red), therefore, giving you more castor, as well as neg camber, with isn't really a bad thing.

"Bugger this. I want more castor." I hear you logically say. Well, you can machine down, your castor arms, and tap more thread onto them., This in theory gives you an infinite amount more adjustment. But there is more than one way to skin a cat. (Pic of turned down and threaded castor rod, KE25) Sorry about the crappy photo.

This piccie and the above one are from my TE37/KE55. I can't remember of the top of my head what factory castor for these are, but on a 20 series, it's about 1'30" of castor, +- 30". As you can see from the below photo, the castor arm is as "wound in" as it can get.

The rubber bushing (red arrow) allows a certain amount of forwards and backwards movement of the outer end of the lower control arm, as shifted by the castor rod (yellow arrow). Replacing the rubber bush with a nolathane item will increase the rigidity of bushing, thereby placing more strain upon the Lower control arm bolt, and conceiveably not allowing as much twist as you would like to gain your desired amount of castor.

Okay. Here we go. Below is a standard KE20 (all the others are basically the same) lower control arm with standard out-of-the-box rubber bushing.

WHOOP! WHOOP! WINDSHEAR! WINDSHEAR! First accident at Hong Kong's new international airport. 2 Killed, 200 survived. A fedEx MD11 apparently did the same thing, and burnt to a crisp.

My mistake. I was thinking the car on the other thread was a wrong-driver. R

Ford still have them in their F6 Typhoon 260KW ute. God knows why.... Buy the best suspension you can afford. If you're serious, forget Gabriel, I didn't think KMAC made shocks, and Koni are a good choice.Shop around, see what people say. I use and recommend Pedders... :)

Howstuffworks.com You do realise that this will not be a bolt up jobbie don't you? You will require a different gearbox, you are taking an east west motor, and turning it north south, and you will need a custom tailshaft. (The thingy between your gearbox and diff). More than likely you will need a hydraulic clutch. Personally, start small. Find a 4k or 5K (please don't say 7K), freshen it up, change it over. Everything will bolt in, and you'll have a lot less heartache. Particularly if you're not overly car savy. If you what a 5 speed, find a K50 box. Once again, shoud basically bolt up.

Off down to the garage with a camera. Back later!

I'd really need to see episode two first. Am I the only person on the plnet who hasn't seen it yet?? :)

Heat wrap is also a sensational way of shortening the life span of your extractors. They crystalize and crack very rapidly. The ceramic coating is seriously the goods for keeping down heat. I was a sceptic until I fitted these up. I used to have heat wrap on my old extrators. They lasted 18 months before they were irrepairable.

Mmmm, shiny extractors. If you get thm HPC coated they look like that (or the one's in the Dwarf :)). A place up at Brendale does them. Apart from looking pretty, it SIGNIFICANTLY reduces under bonnet temperatures. Don't bitch about price too much guys, my extractors alone cost $700 for the Dwarf...

:moon:

Good question I'm glad you asked. Tony?

I have a Gen III 5.7 in the front yard at the moment.... :moon:

I'll bring the blue paint. :moon:

And I live at Super Jamies place. Call anytime!

92, it should start I think with a E or an F... Correct? (Only know this as my 90 Commodore was EGH289)

No Fook, I didn't notice....

:moon:

Fuel attacks the composition of the element if you use it to clean it too often. Hence you should generally only use the K&N stuff, or soapy water.

Don't forget a big rear wing, as every good shopping trolley has a handle!