Redwarf

Do they even make them??

..... and the list never actually seems to get shorter!

Matt's car works perfectly well as is.... I should know... :insane: "No Mrs T-J, I didn't rape Teddy's car that hard..... "

R700's actually look a lot like the S55 Silverstones as well. The roads up here are very different to the one's used in Victoria. Alot more chngeable and a lot rougher. Most people tend to go for more open patterns, or grooving. That was the issue I had with the S505 Silverstones, the pattern was too close together, even with cuts in them. Meh, I'll try the Dunlops......

Man, you have SNOW!! Where the hell do you live????

My mistake, they looked like the SP84 Pattern. I know what you mean about rotation, too. Mine used to go front, back, scrap. I'm just about to try the Dunlop's, although my nav is trying to get me onto Kuhmo's, except I can't stand their rep..... I've been on Bridgestones (great but a little big), Falkens (excellent but don't make them anymore), and Silverstones (reasonable....). It is VERY much a personal preference.... I'm giving it twelve months to sort the new car.....

How do you find the Dunlops? I was looking at using them on the new car, except using the proper steers on the front..... Getting there, off to Auto Elec (Thank you Pete, Alexander's Auto Electrics, Petrie) on Friday. We're mostly good, just, as you say, little ancillary things to go, but the car has already been run, so most thing are in there. Yellow car looks good... 4K or 2T-G?

Does Jack Newton swim in circles?

I drive Commodores now.... :insane:

His name is actually "George"... :insane:

Jamie does them in car, I do them out of the car. For me it's easier to pull the engine out, and put it on a stand. Mainly because it takes me under an hour to pull the engine out and the same to put it back in, and the time I save not having to root around in the engine bay and buggering up my back, for me it's worth it. It depends on what your workshop/ garage is like, and how easily you can do things. I've got to the point where the only thing I'm missing is a hoist, and my Navigator has one at his house if I need it. If you have limited space and equipment, and it'd be easier for you to do it in car. Choose is yours.... :greenbounce:

He got bigger, but he's still my big puppy....

This was our little boy.... we brought him home in a cat cage......

Just as long as you don't tell your mother what I did to your car! :greenbounce: Gee, there's a lot of photo's of me spinning sh1t! Justin, have you done one of these before? I was trying to remember if you had... Good effort though today, nice neat, staying out of trouble. I'm still trying to get the grin of my face after driving Fook's car. I only raped it a bit..... Nicely balanced, a bit more tail happy than what I'm used to, but you can work around that. Lovely to drive though. I love a car that will do what it's told. There's a lot out there that don't. Guy's, just because they have a bit (?) of bodyroll, don't go rushing out to fix it. I know you were a bit disappointed with the amount of bodyroll, Teddy, but the car still felt good to drive. I enjoyed that little squirt you let me have, and your little beastie behaved really well, for an effectively (I know about the engine) stock Corolla, the way that it ran is a credit to your preparation. Everything worked as advertised. Including the handbrake...:doublebird: Job well done guys, it won't be long before you're giving us all a nudge on the soreboard. Next event in two weeks! (Maintain the rage!) Hope you had a good day, and it was a pleasure to come out and help. R

Did we all enjoy ourselves? Good turn out....... I'll post more later....

I know the problem, it's incorrect weight distribution due the steering wheel being on the wrong side.. :greenbounce: Nice shot, but it looks like its on the way down. New trousers please.....

Me, I'd do it out of the car. Anyone done it in-car?

You do know that on a Corolla, if you unscrew the handbrake button, remove the spring, and replace the button, you now have a handbrake that won't lock on? Just remember to replace the spring before hitting the road again.....

Yep, more than one way to skin a cat....

if you're going to get the head skimmed, get them to do a valve grind at the same time. It won't cost you more than a couple of hundred, and it'll be the best money you'llspend......

I have non-standard 202 blue motor springs in my motor. Springs depend on Cam. Decide on the camshaft, then chase springs. There is a set formula, and as I say, any good engine builder should be able to advise. I know Crow cams often do springs to match there cams. I paid $200 for my 1-1/2" SU's. (HS4's). Add to that a manifold, and a linkage set-up. I personally don't think the downdraft webers will work as well as you would like. You'll have to custom set-up linkages anyway for your Webers if you get them. A good pair of Weber side drafts are about $400 to $500, plus set-up. As far as putting the K head straight onto a 4K, I don't know what the CR would be, bu I know people in here can definitely tell you. I don't think it will be as much as 10.5:1 without shaving a fair bit of the head. Cheers R

Okay. Bigger valves aren't really necessary. Mine doesn't have them, and it goes fine. The biggest I've heard of being used are Gemini valves, but that's your decision. I used to run a Wade 169x grind cam, 30/70 .269 lift. Great user friendly club motorsport type cam, worked well with the factory twins. Wade's used to be, and I think still are, in Nth Melbourne. Any decent engine builder can hook you up with the correct springs. I'd look at getting something like a pair of SU's rather than going for twin downdraft Webers. Even a or a pair of Side draft webers, as there's a good amount of space on a 35 to put aircleaners (always a problem on earlier KE's). However, Webers are as dear as poison. But hey, that's just my opinion. Forget about Avgas. You can't run it in club competition, unless you have an Historic log booked car. About 10.5:1 CR is what you're chasing if you want it to run well on PULP. Hope this helps. R

Before you do anything, work out a budget. How much do you want to spend? Money = power. As I saw on another forum, "How fast would you like to spend, sir?" As for changing cam in situ? Not easy. Never done it myself, and have no interest in doing it. Would be quite difficult. For me, it's an engine out job, and do it on a stand. Where are you located? R

According to the TE27 homologation papers, they were never factory with discs on the rear.

On closer inspection, the damage seems to be mostly the nose cowl. Few hundred thousand for a new one and it'll be good to launch. The boy's aren't fixing that one with aluminium tape.....