Redwarf

Much better than turning it into a ball.... :D

Special mention must go to Pine City Smash Repairs in Petrie for donating the booth for Redwarf Motorsports use. Thanks to Wayne for .... well, a lot of work. We wouldn't have got this far in just over 2 weeks if it wasn't for his skill and drive. There's still more to come........ stay tuned.

Mikuni-solex carbs are only good for one thing.... the bin. The Weber option is far better.

All up it didn't come up too bad. A couple of ugly bits, but hey, it's a rally car. Cost I think is around the $300 mark to paint it, maybe a little more, but not much.

Very red...

Paint installed today......

You people are all very disturbed. I remember only very minimal bits of my dreams, like all normal people!! :D

I'll have whole car shots on Wednesday. Booth is booked all day. Final rubback tomorrow night. Just put Fook's guard and valance panel on, realized just how rooted the r/h guard now is. *shrug* rally car....... Although.... OMG, how good are nut-sert guns?? I just filled the front of the car with them.........

Hullo Craig... Mel's talking to you....:)

*cough* :) In all seriousness, you have to work out a budget. It's pointless going anywhere until you do. Transplants are only limited to your imagination, and to how deep your pockets are. Remember, you have to include in your budget, gearbox, likely diff upgrade, engineering, insurance for your pride and joy. All of these can leave a serious dent in your wallet. google.com is a really useful tool in investigating what people have already done, how much it cost them, problems run into, and stuff they've had to custom make. I don't know your background, but can you manufacture stuff yourself? Things become cheaper if you can. If not, get a large cheque book, and a box of Bics and get ready! Okay, as a friendly non-flaming hint, questions like and on a lot of forums are usually heaped with scorn (this one is generally an exception). If you search back through forum archives, there are quite a lot of questions just like these, and long term members get a little tired of seeing them. A successful conversion will require a lot of research on your behalf, and not just on the internet. Don't take anything as gospel until you've popped outside with a tape measure and confirmed it. Talk to people who know about this stuff and talk to an engineer VERY early on if you want to avoid major nausea. Be interested to know what you come up with...... Cheers R

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing properly.:)

You're right, that kind of stick, you're likely to tear the guts out of a sprung one. I consider them to be good for Justin or Ben's purposes though. Not particularly cheap, but you get what you pay for.

At a guess, $300 +, but you'll wear out the flywheel before the clutch! :)

I disagree. That's where the sprung centre makes a difference. It lets it have a bit of "give" that you wouldn't normally have. I already have one in the Dwarf, and it's great (cute little 3 puck). You can get away with the sprung centre unless ou have monster HP. Where the benefit is, is that once the clutch has taken up, you have virtually no clutch slip. It's hard to explain. Full buttons, like the one in Datgirl's 1600, are piggish, and take some getting use to, but they're not as bad as everyone thinks. Justin, come and try mine when it's going, and see what you think... R

I understand you can buy similar off the shelf, but this one's a custom jobbie. I can organize one if you like.....

Don't forget about the rest of the car that you will have to upgrade to keep everything going. eg: diff, brakes.... Plus you have to keep the engineer happy. What state are you in?

New clutch arrived yesterday... Four puck ceramic with a sprung centre.

Heathens the lot of you. If it's a Toyota, you put a Toyota engine in it. If it's a Nissan, you put a Nissan engine in it. Thou shalt not mix between the two. Here endth the lesson. :)

The difficult part about Alfa diff is getting tailshaft bolts for them, as Datgirl can attestify to with the Classic Adelaide Escort. I had to send some down from BNE from the only guy who had them here....... You're right though, very strong.....

just go in via mousebreaker.com , it's available on the first page. 104.3 seconds......

Yes, including me. I'm an internet pleb, and basically don't know any better.

It's not too bad really, it's just access and body deadener that are the tricky bits. Must also remember to unplug vacuum cleaner before tipping water on it to put it out......

Tip for new players, don't leave the vacuum cleaner in the footwell of the car while Mig welding underneath......

Body work almost there....

.... and the inside, too.....