Redwarf

what, the girlfriend has to stay, or just the seat? :P

Rally Cars should only be one colour......

Give it to me for a couple of hours, I'm good at that sort of thing! You could start with the amp and sub..... :P

Red has been down graded to lesser duties, Red will never retire.

Seam weld, respray, brake upgrade, suspension upgrade, grunt upgrade, seat upgrade. Diff rebuild. That's about it. Should take a couple of weeks.

It's a 1300cc engine, you can only perform minor miricles with them.

someone put rocks in your hubcaps? (no really....)

A fair bit of ugliness on the LHS, but we'll get there. I'd like to add that my panelbeating skills aren't great, that's why my new Nav is helping (alot!)......

Rear right isn't pleasant either.....

Front left guard a bit ordinary.....

Yes, I've finally pulled my finger out, and Bluey is on the hoist at Chateau de Wayno's. It rolled in at 1400hrs yesterday, and work started half a stubbie later. Engine and box are out, interior out, body deadener out (mostly), and a certain amount of body ugliness found. New front left guard and valence panel sourced (thanks Fook!). If people want I'll post progress pics as we go. Here's a couple to get started..... Engine out, average front end.....

Ahhh, okay, never had to look for them, that's answered one question then. I wonder if someone like Hepalite make them....

I have 78mm Charade pistons in my 3K. I believe (As I didn't build this engine, a guru did) that he made telfon plugs for the ends of the gudgeons as they don't have circlips, or are just plain different in their mounting. Are you in Brisbane, because my guy will do it for you. Do they bolt on? Simple answer no, but they can be made to fit. ACL should do dished 4K pistons. Look to upgrade your big end bolts, they're always a weak point. Power isn't all in the port job, alot has to do with the valve grind too.

Teddy, don't go HERE!

Is this with the new 5K?

Give Cruisen Auto Spares in Nambour a call, tell them the Dwarf told you to call them. I know it's Nambour, but I'm up there about once a fortnight and can pick them up for you. They'll also machine the drums as well. I can drop them off in the morning, and pick them up that afternoon if required. 5441 6411, Nikki and Dave.

If they're not in your lights, they don't exist..... :thumbsup:

My current addiction...... stickcricket.com

Don't stress, just slam it in.....

Mmmm.... that's a big cam. You may have difficulties realizing it's full potential with that carbie though. Are you going to run it on PULP? You should be able to run it on ULP with 9.5:1 CR. Be interested to see what it's like after a good dyno session.

Carbies? Cam specs? :thumbsup:

I had to do this on an old 3K of mine(don't ask why). Change the dipstick to a 3/4 K item, drop the oil and while you're at it, change the filter. Measure the exact amount of oil required ( including filter). Turn the engine over. Wait half a stubbie and check where the oil is on dipstick. Use this mark for future reference when putting oil in the car. I remembered where my mark was, but if your forgetful, you can notch the dipstick.

Okay, some light reading for you: Unleaded in a 4K And.... 4k head stuff There's more about, too, I just can't be bothered looking for it at the moment.. (late).. Cheers R

In that case you will require new wheel nuts. Supercheap have them.

Look at the holes on the wheels, are they square shouldered or tapered? If they are square shouldered you will require new wheel nuts (shanked nut and washer). Don't go belting out wheel studs until you have worked this out! If the stud holes look bigger, I'd say you will have to go the shank and washer option. Cheers R