Redwarf

.... and which state would that be? I'm assuming you're in the States?

What's an IP address? :dance: Interesting. I'm sure if you go far enough back you'll find it ends at a P.O Box in Swaziland...... By the way, I have a few million in Nigeria that I need to hide. Can I have your banking details? There's a good earn in it for you....

Still blocked. :dance:

Can't see it as I'm at work. Is it me? :dance:

That is actually an astonishingly bad idea. In moments of peril, one tends to brace ones self. If you left foot brake, your left foot will brace against the brake pedal, and your right will brace on whatever is under it. Generally the accelerator. I've seen it happen a number of times while instructing, and the results are very unattractive. I strenuously recommend changing this driving practice.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?a...lite=sigma+arms That wasn't hard now, was it?

Which is all good until you undo a bolt and find you can't get the spanner off, and can't do it back up because you can't get the spanner off, which is stuck on the bolt because you can't do it back up again, because you can't get the spanner off because it's stuck on the bolt..........

You just need some "Corolla 1200" badges and you're good to go! :wink:

ditto. but mines a bit bigger. :sob:

Yes.

Your option would be to build it as a 17 replica and use a 3K. (Sorry Doug, original engines only!) I had a 3K out to 1360 with a 4K crank, charade pistons (Can find sizing if interested). I know with a different piston we were looking at just over 1400cc, but I can't remeber what it was. Godd motor. Revved and had torque, particularly with weber-ation. Decent cam, go racing. Slight maching of the piston and head to make fit, ended up with 10.8:1, and ran 98 octane happily.

You can't really go wrong. Known car of which you know the history. Keep regualar servicing up to it and she be driving down to collect her pension with it in 40 years time.

Timing belt due in 2000kms. Exhaust is probably got a heat shield rattle. CV's are cheap. Come to think of it, all the parts are cheap. Had one with 260000 kms on it (and had it from new) and NOTHING went wrong with it. Just serviced it regularly, and changed timing belts every 100K. Autos are a bit sludge-o-matic though IMHO.

These gooogles, zey do nothing!!

With 13's on the front, and 15's on the rear, it's going to look like a Kubota. Not to mention illegal.

Well, it's called supply and demand. They have the goods, you obviously can't track down what you want, therefore you cough up the price. Do you want to do a 5 speed conversion or not? If yes, pay money. If no, drive a sludge-o-matic, or bleed from the ears with a 4 speed. They can ask whatever price they feel like. If you don't pay it, they'll sell it to someone else. It's called business. If it's all that much of a problem, sell it and buy a manual one. Now, on with normal programing........

Find a K50 box. It'll be easier. T50 you'll need a hydraulic clutch conversion as well.

.... but what a way to go! :yes:

Don't mess with the Kombi....

No, expensive shocks are Drummond or MCA (proflex). I was quoted $4200 for four MCA Shocks for my 55 hardtop. These are mid range shocks that are good quality. You get what you pay for.

Don't know off hand, but then again what I pay for them and what you would pay for them would be two seperate issues. Probably around the $300- $400 for the pair. I stress that these are good shocks, and not your monroe/ gabriel/ kyb level stuff.

Why bother when you can get Bilsteins?

Why bother when you can get GOOD aftermarket shocks? There are about eleventy trillion suspension/ handling threads in here. Most recent would be this one (It was last answered four hours before you made this thread) : http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=30308 Searching is your friend.

Cut springs in road car = bad.

Get the springs reset properly and stick some decent shockies in. I used Bilsteins and they rock. It'll do the job. It did in mine.