Redwarf

Dear Lord, where do I start? Not so much mods, more temporary fixes, mostly with rally cars. Wire broke off the fuel pump at the end of a stage, nav sat in boot holding wire on to get back to service. worked well until I hit a cattle grid at speed and aforesaid mentioned nav nearly fell out. Large bald man with no neck not happy with me..... 10" 1/4" drive extention bar as a light stay after we broke the good ones on a tree. Raced Staurday at Bendigo Autocross, came home to Melbourne and went to Morwell hillclmb (with the legendary "Batch") the next day. Car had done a rear main oil seal and was hosing oil. Rolled car through scrutineering to avoid oil puddles, and had to have someone stand in front of the car everytime we backed the car out so that we could kick dirt over the puddles so no one would notice. Bent a front strut badly enough to wear through the inside of a rally tyre. Turned the whole wheel around, and spaced it with 2 x 10mm spanners to get us 20 km back to rally base. Hell slow trip that one...... Had all the cosmetic panels on the front of the last car held on with nutserts... Used a thong to space a battery so it didn't short on the bonnet. (Thanks Medicine Man!) Panel beat the rear of a Celica after a trip into a tree with a trailer ramp. Worked well enough for him to go back out and finish the job off by rolling twice.... I could go on for ages.....

Every man and his dog tends to run RX4 rims on the 20 series (well, they used to anyway). They're 13 x 5.5 and can be picked up cheap as chips. There are a lot of 13 inch mags getting around for the Mazda pattern, but very few 14's it seems. If you do fit Mazda rims, be careful with the centre hole. I don't know what it would be like with your car, but they're ever so slightly too small to fit a 20 hub. They'll go on, but getting them off again is entertaining. 5 minutes with a half round file or die grinder will solve this issue though. why are the studs too short? I would have thought with shouldered nuts it should be fine, particularly as you can get the nuts in different lengths?

I seriously think you don't need one. You'll need to break into your back brake line, make new flares, and usually a new length of line as well, as the rear bit will now be too short to reach the rear axle.. Land rover clutch master is what most people use. Make sure you have all your pivot points in the right place otherwise it'll be a dog to use. Most motorsport places will have them for sale, but be prepared to pay dollars for them, as they're not cheap. ie: you wont get one for $50. $200-$300 may get you across the line. NOTE: Unless you have a disc rear end, and rig it to a second set of calipers, this is an illegal modification in ALL states, and if seen, you'll be towing your car home, as you wont be allowed to drive it.

Gday Mark, Try placing this in the wanted to buy section. Regional forums are not the place for classifieds. Cheers R

Pictures would help, and an english language version please. Seriously, try again. :)

Three strikes and you're out, Hotrolla/myae82.

Where are you? Bond in Sydney make them, but they're generally fairly basic. What do you define as 10 point? Usually they're 4, 6 or 8 point with tabs.

Motorsport is a disease. The cure is poverty. If you don't have much money, you're not going racing for very long. How about you tell us what you know, and we'll tell you whether you're on the right track. Seriously though, you're not going to go drifting with a 4K and do it with any success, unless you're a freek.

I love my cordless angle grinder. :D

Thats not all that happens. Yes you invert the eyes by flipping the main leaf, but you have to re-set the spring unless you want it to handle like a plastic bag full of cottage cheese. To put things very basically, when you lower a car, the springs get to a point where they are either flat, or have a reverse bow in them. This is not optimal. By reversing the eyes, you get about 20mm more usable lowering height to use, before the spring becomes...... for want of a better word, disfigured or not optimal. Or over center. Or something. You get the gist. Beasically you want to maintain at least someof the curve in the spring, and inverting the main leaf allows extra lowering. Somewhere around here I have a picture of a standard leaf pack and an inverted eye pack. I'll see if I can find it.

Spigot bearing should come with the clutch kit. Clutch aligning tool isn't essential, just very helpful, and if you buy one, you'll have it for the rest of your life. The further off the ground you can get the car, the easier the job will be. Torque wrench would be helpful, but not essential. Make sure you do all the clutch bolts up evenly. FWIW, I've seen the TRD brothers on here replace a clutch in 17 minutes in a paddock. Easy job on a 70, shouldn't take you more than a couple of hours. :hmm:

Dwarf's here too. This thread is stupid beyond belief. Rollaclub does not condone the cutting of springs, as it's illegal, and for VERY good reasons. As such, this thread is being closed. So is running your car into a concrete wall. It's something else you've never done.........

That's fine. Fix that. That's the area which they all tend to go. You'd be hard pressed to find one at the wreckers in better nick. Fibreglass and bog are your friends. :wink: I've fixed far, far worse than that.

Someone needs a hug. :D

No.

Well, technically it's the adjuster for the rear brakes. The hand brake adjustment is either on the handbrake itself, or under the floor. If it's not adjusted right up, it'll cause a lower pedal.

There's also adjusters on the rear drums. If you pull the drum off, the adjuster sits between the two shoes just under the wheel cylinders. adjust it up so that you can only just get the drum back on. If you haven't already done that, it should raise the pedal a bit.

Well, you asked for it..... My Line Maintenance / Flyaway box. This one has all my good work gear in it..... My wall mount which lives in the garage .....and the 6 draw roll-cab And my old heavy maintenance box. Too big for what I'm doing now.

You'll hear all the arguments about why it's safe and fine to do, but remember, cutting a spring is illegal, negates your insurance, and leaves you open for criminal prosecution if you are proved negligent in an accident.

Yes, odds are you'll have to replace it. any auto parts store should have one, price under $20 or so.

Well, given that I banged "sigma arms" into the search engine above and came up with the appropriate answer in less time it took you to type your post, you need to get better research skillz. Just under two pages of info I got for that. I also know that at least one page sets out in clear terms your answer. Here, let me help you again: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?a...lite=sigma+arms Or, do you not own a tape measure? Measure your LCA's, measure early and late Sigmas, do some math (they do still teach that don't they?). It's one of the ways normal people do things. Or are you not welcome at the wreckers as you've "laughed in their face" as well?

How many times do you need to ask the same question> http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=32110 If you bothered to search you would have the answer.....

Which one? Theres about 6 versions of the 2T-G, and about as many of the 4A-G. Can you be a bit more specific as to what you want??

I have a brand new Mazda 323 11/16 twin master that I got to fit my 25, but it got in the way of the Webers. :) The spacing is stud spacing is right (60mm from memory) and the sleeve hole should be right as well. I ahppy to give it to you for the price it owes me (trade minus "rally" discount....). I'll see if i can find what I paid for it...... Others are early meteor, and the one that I currently have, early Gallant (available in various bore sizes, but not cheap....) Toymods has a good write up on this somewhere as well. Cheers

No, you have Ebola virus. :no2: