Redwarf

You can't legally run avgas on the road. it's easily detectable if you do, as it has a very unique exhaust smell. 13:1 Is high. Try running premium 98, but if it's a genuine 13:1, it might not cope. Seriously, you would wanted to have dropped the 91 out of it before you even started it. It was never going to cope.

I put my balaclava on backwards. :)

It was until last weekend. That's why you haven't seen photos of it before now. ;) Teddy, I've already removed the frangipani stickers wayne's wife stuck on it. :) Yes, it's a Hyundai Rally series car. Thus it has all the inside trppings of a rally car, and under the bonnet is a completely un-modified SOHC (it's not even the twinkie...) 1495cc donk. Sorry to disappoint you guys. I've been insturcting a lot of people with front drive cars, and have never raced one myself. I was offered this thing for a couldn't-refuse-price. So I thought I'd give wrong wheel drive a go. The plan is to run it until the end of next year and sell it for around what it owes me (someone will still be getting a cheap, good car), so it's a cost neutral exercise.

A couple of quick photos of my new toy. I'll fill in a bit more later.....

I know he definitely used my lumpstick (I think Xany has it now....) and the head may have been one of mine, but it wasn't my grunter head though. Being doubles I don't know what they were off, but my Holden ones are definitely a single spring.

202 springs are marganally larger than KE springs. by the look of the head, minor machining was done. The thing is, you will still need to match the spring to the cam. These were an aftermarket set for a blue motor, that happened to match quite well a cam with around .460 (IIRC) lift. They may not suit your purpose.

Anything is better than your carbie, with the exception of a standard one. Su's are better, Webers/ Dellortos even better. Also remember when searching for Hp, you're going to start finding the weakest link. Axles, diff, unis, gearbox. Not necessarily in that order. I'll be blunt. You're not going to pull 80kw ATW from an NA 4K. Or not without a substancial amount of cash, at which point you may as well put something else in. Taz is on the mark with 50-60. I'd say closer to 50.

You're also going to need a heat shield, like the very sexy example above. ^^^^^^^^^^

A man in a couch is coming to see me??

No, you must prostrate yourself in the direction of Littleredspirit. He got there before me. :( WGMG is removing tint from windows. It's almost as bad a job as removing body deadener.

Dear God, no. I'm old. I only do Hp.

Mr Dong will not be joining us this evening, or any other for that matter, in his current, or when/if we find them, any other guise.

Okay. A few questions. What is a stage 3 cam? Without specs we really can't give you an idea, as we don't know ourselves. Double valves srpings: The trick here is to match your valve spring with your cam. My all-singing all-dancing 3K had single valve springs from a 202 blue motor. All the rest of the things sound good, but bear in mind if you don't dyno the SU's by someone competent, it's all going to be a waste of time. To give you an idea of what's achieveable, my NA 3K got about 110 at the fly. You'd be looking 80-90 at a a rough guess.

Loose the text speak.

Thread cleaned. Note to all: Don't make the mods come back here. You've been warned.

Been a while since i've visited here. I'm so sooooo pleased that this has turned out for the good. Fatherhood is just the bestest. :P

I used to use a Subaru one. Ryco A337 rings a bell.....

The part number I used for the Bilsteins in my 55 hardtop is F4-B46-0071-H0. Hope that helps. :)

Get it off him in writing or it's worthless.

55's are prone to tramp, one reason is the angle the back shocks are. A good quality shock will solve a lot of your issues here. I used Bilsteins, and they worked well. I wouldn't worry about the half length, stick a full length one in, even if it's an old one out of another pack, and see what happens. Bilsteins are probably cheaper than you think.

Gday Kelvin. Thought it was you. You can get T series slipperies for a reasonable price these days. A lot of importers are bringing them in. as for the gears, I got mine from palmside.co.nz (Tony or Chris Scott can help with this, as they know them personally) and the conversion to $Kiwi iis particularly good ATM. The 4.77 that they sell are the commercial gears, not the TRD ones, and are much longer lasting. I know, go figure. I found the 4.7's a really good match to the T50 box. I originally had 4.1 and the drop from 2nd - 3rd was epic. 4.77 smoothed this out alot. Being somewhat ignorant of the 20V 4AG, do they have more torque than the 16v? The problem as you're well aware of ATM is that all the drift kiddies want KE70's and the prices for anything connected to them are now on a Cecil B DeMille scale. :)

Nope. Not quite. I place another full length 8mm spring in the pack, and get the whole lot reset to the height I require. I tend to run quite a hard set up in my cars. If you have a 3X or 5X I'd consider running a rear sway bar (I was going to but I wrote the car off first...) I never felt the need with the 25 though. Both cars had an added 8mm spring running full length. I can get piccies tomorrow or maybe lter if interested. R

Most people seem to use t series diffs. I used a T series in my 2TG KE55 with a TRD slippery, and 4.77 gears and never had issues. That said I have a Mazda B1800 down stairs for the next incarnation, but that's a bit of overkill. Hilux is a lot of weight to be flogging around under the back of the car. How do you get away with a 4AG rally car? Do you run it as Schedule R? And did you used to own an Excel?

Bump. Seems a few people need reminding. You guys have been doing really well for the last couple of months, please don't spoil it. R

Go talk to someone like Pedders or Fulcrum (or any reputable suspension shop) and they should sort you out.