Redwarf

Bigport heads have a big welsh plug on the back of the head. Newer heads have a plate bolted to it. Oni: P1 under 1400cc Production Rally Car. Now P2 1400-1600cc with 2TG goodness. :hammer:

The ultimate answer is, as usual, how much do you want to spend. I have a 3K downstairs that has about the same output as a stock 4AG, with 250cc less capacity. I spent a Cecil B DeMille epic amount of money to get it that way, but I built it to be in a certain class. Bigport heads (sorry Seabiscuit, a genuine K-B head is a different animal again...) do make a difference. Small though it may be. That, combined with a set of extractors, maybe a carbie upgrade (I'm a fan of the twin standard down drafts if you can get some...) will see you with a good streetable little car. It won't set the world alight, but it'll be fun. 4K and 5K motors are good upgrades, but if you want to stay 3K, so be it. You have to work with what you've got. :D R

Terribly sorry, I obviously have no experience in this sort of thing. Great, one bloke has done it, all power to him. At a guess he's taken a healthy dip into the talent bucket as well. Obviously you'll be able to replicate it. All that I'm saying is tha if you want to do it properly, you may need to take other things into consideration. Once again, don't get up me because I'm telling you something you don't want to hear.

No, I have read what you wrote. You asked for an opinion, I gave it. If you don't want others advice, don't ask for it. By all means go to the track, but don't expect a stockish 4K and driveline to put up with the punishment that you are planning to deal out. All well and good to do suspension mods, but when the diff/ axle/ tailshaft/ gearbox goes when you get to corner 3, don't come whining your sorry arse off back here.

Completely pointless unless you get a decent power increase. You will not be able to "drift" in the true meaning of the word with inadequate Hp and a standard driveline. Not for any longer than a day anyway.

Gday Phil. Twin DCOE manifolds are readily available over here in Oz. Redline do one that should be available off the shelf. http://www.redlineauto.com.au/products/pro...tegory=BFLXHVLE They should export, or I'm sure we could come to an arrangement. It just seems a lot of work to do when I'm sure between you, me and the rollaclub community we can get a better outcome. :D

http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...ies/Carburettor

I beg to differ. Buy Webers, Buy manifold, mount with soft mounts, add linkages (off the shelf), get tuned by someone over the age of 40. Can be done in an afternoon if you know what you're up to. As opposed get carbs, manufacture/ adapt manifold, work out a linkage package, mount, say f@$k because one of your measurements wasn't right, repeat again from stage two, find someone with a dyno who also knows something about motorbike carbs. I've seen it done before. Looks good, and works well, but there's WAAAAYYYYyyyy easier ways to skin that particular cat.

Get a pair of weber DCOE's. Easier to do, easier to get manifolds for, easier to set-up, and chances are you'll get a much better result. If they were that good, everybody would have them.

You guys are so un-hip, it's a wonder your bums don't fall off. :party:

Sorry to deflate you boys, but you may want to check the member number on the guy that started this thread: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=29156#entry333626 Not everybody who joins validates and thus becomes a member. Plus the few who've been advised not to come back. Or something.:y:

These are some pics of my set. These aren't off the shelf items, but it should give you an idea of what you're looking at. Sorry about the quality of the third photo, I didn't realise until I was back upstairs. If you want a better one give me a yell, but I'm in MEL for the weekend, thus it will have to be Monday before I can re-do it. *edit* Gee, I'm a bit slow tonight......

I believe Qld to be signing up. They tend to with things like this. NSW on the other hand I understand will NOT be joining in.

In before the lock. :bash:

No, the moral of the story is to fill out your paper work properly.

In my experience, you have to cut both front and rear gaurds to make them fit. The rears are a double skin, so new sections have to be added.

False economy. Save your money, buy something decent when you can afford it instead of putting in something half knackered off another car..

How much money do you have?

That would be me then. :wink: If you want to race on a track, join a club, go racing. It's almost that simple. You'll find the reason that you can't get into most tracks (ie: public days) is because they're booked almost 12 months in advance. You have 2 tracks in SA. Mallala management need there heads boiled, and AIR needs substancial upgrades. Don't get up Bob, he's been dead for years, just nobody has told him. The simple fact is though, that clubs get the days because they're organised, and they know what they're doing. You may have to pay the premium in CAMS licenses etc, but at least you'll be out there.

..... and who decides on who's a high and who's a low performance driver?? Refer sig. vvvvv

It will still be governed by the size of peoples wallets. Noted. However, if you want a front running Gemi, you need to be "creative". If I applied what I know as fact about various Gemi's to building a Corolla, nobody would get near me. 5K was never OEM fitment to a Corolla in this country. Therefore you have already gone contrary to your above statement. And you're going to control this precisely how? right-o. RWD Corollas never had 14" rims as standard. Brakes should NOT be free. (Please sir may I have some Brembos? I know at least one person in here with some...). Monroe GT's are about as useful as a scuba tank made of cheese for racing purposes. Bilstein, Koni as a bare minimum. How are you going to make sure they comply to your spec? Been there, done that. Bought the t-shirt. It doesn't happen. If you say open diffs only, I can build one that works like a LSD, but when you jack it up to check, will behave like an open. I know engine mods you will never find. A $3000 close tolerance rebuild will piss-ball a ring and bearing hone the bore rebuild. I can lighten cars in places you've probably never dreamed of. It's a simple fact that people cheat and can and do throw vast amounts of money at things to get advantages. It's why I haven't played on tarmac for ages. Another fact is if you don't have the required talent, nothing is ever going to make you fast. To think that you can run without any sponser of worth is wrong. You need their money. You have to be able to bring money and support to the events. How/ where would you run the events? Licencing? I know what my CAMS licence is worth and it's not pretty. Can you give a breakdown of the cost of building a car? Off the top of my head I can also think of the cost of racesuit, helmet, seat, belts, cage ($$$), car logbook, inspection fee. What will the entry fees be? Who's insurance and what liability cover will it be? The questions are endless. as I said earlier. I admire you enthusiasm, but I've seen it all before.

It hasn't made really expensive noises has it? :)

Child labour. That's what I like to see! :)

Here we go again. 1: To start with, how or why is you tailshaft too short? Get one from the wreckers to suit a KE30. Problem one solved. 2: re: engine conversion. Search this forum and google. Lots. There's heaps of conversions out there and what you do will be dependent on these factors: Money, fabrication skills, money, mechanical ability, money, electrical skills, money. If you have $500 to do a conversion, you'll get squat. Don't say money isn't an object, because at some point it will be. Come back to us with questions like "I'd like to put a 4TGTE in my car, but I'm concerned that the overhead thronomisters will be an issue." It shows that you've done resaerch, and people will be much happier to help.

You can go dual circuit which will require a couple of new pipes. ie: RWD Mazda 323, Early Meteor, GA-GD Gallant (sizes vary). Alternately there'll be someone local who could re-sleeve/ re-nuild one for you.