Redwarf

Sounds pretty much what I was going to suggest actually. I've only read this for the first time tonight, and my thought as I was going down the page was fuel vaporisation. I had it with my SU's. Fixed by a heat shield between the carb and exhaust, and some stuff called Stratoflex over the fuel line in the hot area. Any sort of heat shield will do. The first one I used was the rego plate off my car trailer. When that worked, I made one of exhaust gasket sandwiched between two thin pieces of stainless. Look also at where you fuel line is routed and see if any changes to that will help as well. Let us know how it goes.

About $2-300. Sell them here for $300 would be a fair price for all. Ebay you'd be taking chances IMHO.

Myth confirmed. Makes them brittle and reduces lifespan.

DCOE is a side draft. Some of us believe that normal Webers are side draft. :dance:

It's not the cops only that are the problem. Have an accident and the insurance company sees it and it's bye-bye insurance.

If you guys turn this into a spam thread, it goes bye-byes...

It really is not as simple as getting a group of your mates together and calling yourself a car club. You would require a constitution, if you have half a brain, become an incorporated body (the MINIMUM protection that you would want....) affiliate to a governing body of some sort (CAMS, what ever the SA equivilant of AOMC is, hot rod governing body etc) and jump through the hoops of transport. All of these will require a decent base membership with membership fees, insurance, formal events, the lot. It would be FAR easier to join a local club with availability to the scheme.

I had a VNII that was great. Looked after it, did a huge amount of k's in it, and it never let me down, with the exception of the fuel pump, but I will cop that as one of those things. Harmonic balancer went as well, and z bar bushes are about the first thing that goes in the suspension, as well as panhard bushes. I also had a VSII Acclaim, and it must have been a friday arvo car, because it played merry hell with me. It was a dog. As previously stated it's now hard to find one in good non trashed condition. IMHO go private and look for a one owner. You'll probably pay a premium for it, but it should be looked after, and if you do the same, it'll be a good reliable bus.

Unfortunately I can't help him in SA. Qld I could help with. I agree, but this is what NCOP is supposed to help with. Oh wait, NSW aren't signing up to it.... :lolcry:

Sounds like somebody doesn't know the right people.... :lolcry:

Have you read this? : http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=20282

Gday Pete. Yep, rattle gun, or if the engine is in the car, put a breaker bar and socket on it, wedge it against a rail (you'll need to work out which rail :lolcry:) and turn the car over on the starter. Should break the bolt that way. R

No. For one thing, we cover all states and the schemes are significantly different from state to state. My dear old Dad Is registrar for his club in Melbourne, and I know he's also heavily involved with the restructure of the CH scheme through the AOMC down there. I know what is involved legally club wise for the scheme, personally would not like to see us getting involved in any way shape or form. It's a VERY serious commitment, with VERY strong ramifications for Rollaclub when somebody does the wrong thing. As has happened in the early days at TCCA, and others. These schemes rely strongly on people doing the right thing, and as a lot of the denizens in here struggle to comply with a few simple posting rules, I can't see them complying to the letter of what would be needed.

I think I can actually answer this one with a bit of authority, as I've had twin everythings over the years. Factory aisans: Would do the job. Basically bolt on ten Hp. The set I had went straight on the car and worked like a charm. Had them rebuilt once, and they behaved exactly the same. Set and forget, but getting really hard to find. I think Cameron has my set these days, after going through the hands of a number of Rollaclubbers. SU: I had a pair of HS4 (1.5") SU's on a hot (and I don't use that term lightly) 1360cc 3K. They were just enough for that engine, they would really suit a mild 4K. I had them professionally rebuilt, followed by half a day on the dyno. Never touched for about 2.5 years after that, and I was really impressed by them. Hard to find maniflods to suit, although a few have appeared in here recently. 1.75"' Su's would be too big on a 4K. Weber/ Dellorto: Notice I didn't say Solex. Webers (and Ill use this to cover Dellortos as well) are the grand-daddy of them all. I picked up alot of torque and hp, and started using epic amounts of fuel. Induction noise to die for. Looking at the thick end of $1000 to set-up. If you think you can get away with out dyno time, you're kidding yourself. I love Webers, but they can be summed up with: Big grunt, big dollars, big noise, big fuel bill.

Nope. Doesn't work like that. The state has to become a signitory to the code. ATM it looks like NSW isn't going to adopt it, and one or two others may not as well. To give you an example, The National Traffic code came about in 1996-ish and was meant to standardise the traffic rules across the country. Only Qld and S.A signed up to that one.

KE 2x guards of the same vintage are all the same. The difference is in wnether they are early or late guards. Earlies have the indicator in the headlight surround, late have them in the guard proper.

If it's manual, it's a good chance to be the 109. Auto 115. The 115 also has cruise.

Thread cleaned at owners request. dbr: just be careful with what you say in future, because what you (may or may not) have inadvertently said started all that..... R

Individual. I had some great write offs this year, otherwise I wouldn't make it. :)

I just always remember a bloke called Bruce who had a Bellett sports sedan, and looking at the slicks that were wider than they were high. That was a magic car that. I do however feel your pain. It's so hard to get decent rubber full stop in the smller sizes now.....

As a 17yo, I think he has Buckley's either way. But, gee, I've been seriously wrong in the past after making statements like that! :)

Even if it is, they're not hard to change, and not that expensive. With 350K on it, I'd say it's probably had a freshen up at some stage......

Short of a complete engine rebuild, basically any job can be done in half a day. Engine swap, gearbox are all easy to change, and cheap. Even motors aren't prohibitively expensive. I've seen a clutch changed in under 20 minutes, and I've done a head gasket in 45. Easy simple cars.

I believe as Col said, you can get some wildly fat arsed slicks in 13 and 14 still. :P

I think you'll still struggle with 3rd party. Have a bit of a ring around and see. If it has mods, your chances are even less.