Redwarf

Mackay is also the epicenter of bad driving in this country. If you have to go there, walk. preferably on the road, as it's often safer than the footpath.

Did he have it dyno'd? The thing with Weber's is that although you can give them a vague tune on the bench, that will allow you to start and drive around, unless you give them a run-up with all the gadgets attached, you're only kidding yourself about the tune. A good set-up by someone competent (as opposed to many establishmens these days who if it doesn't have a computer attached, they start spinning in circles, flapping like a chook), and you won't have to touch it again. My cars never have a problem starting, be it 40 degrees, or as happened last year, -8 degrees. It's one of those things that if you do it properly, spend the money, you'll be rewarded by endless amounts of induction noise, and spend your time looking for tunnels to drive through. :)

Dude, if you set them up right the first time, you DON'T have to keep tuning them! My engines go on the dyno once a year, and most of the time we don't touch them. And there's more than one person in here who can give you a reference for what they go like.

Refer to other thread. Also, one question, one thread. :)

A seven minute bump. It's a new record. Read the rules and get back to us. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=8093 :)

150 Hp ATW in an NA will be an ugly thing to drive. 11.5 to 1 and your looking at the top end of what pump fuel can do for you. 40mm Webers maybe a bit small, I'd suggest 45's, as they'll do it easy for you. Is this going to be an everyday car?

There we go. I've just learnt something. :)

Excellent. Good luck! :)

The easy answer is no it won't. It will, but requires a monumental amount of rooting around.

If I may respectfully request that in future you put in some punctuation, as that post is VERY difficult to read. As far as info goes, up in the top righthand corner of this page, there is a search function. There isa lot of information about in this forum regarding 5K's and what to do with them. I suggest that you have a really good look around, and then come back and ask more questions.

Pre-prepared 2tg powered rally car. Some things are worth the effort. :)

No drama. I have one car that I re-rego'd from Victoria, and the other from Tasmania, and both cars had to go through the hoops to be rego'd in Qld. :)

My understanding of it all is that the car has to be individually engineered in each state, as each state has differing rules. One engineering report is not acceptable, as an engineer maybe acceptable in say Qld, odds on they're not an authorised engineer to Vicroads. Hence, what's engineered in one state, may not be able to be rego'd in another. As far as I know, there's no loophole.

Concur. My sister had carbs on her 35 and it was a good thing. Carbs are not something you put on and expect to work. A dyno trip is a must, and after that you shouldn't ever have to touch them again. Don't root around with bike carbs. Other people have tried, and if they were a good thing, everybody would be using them. Get a good pair of carbs (Webers or Dellortos, try and stay away from Solexs), a manifold, bolt them on and off you go to the dyno man.

If you get it engineered in QLD, you're looking at (by my reckoning), an LA1, LB1, LC1, LD1 and an LK1 Mod plate. (and possibly an LA3, as the engine never had a Turbo factory in Australia.) I'd do it in South Aus.

With the right cam, 4-7K is where it should operate. We've all revved the date out of one of these things for giggles, but thats where you should be looking. For that kind of thing, balanced is nice but not essential. As far as just doing the fly wheel, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing properly. Do the whole thing.

Hide it. :)

Are we just talking about the rear springs/ shackles here?

Most suspension places do them, I know Pedders do, as my car has all Pedders bushes. Beware, there are two different sized sets of bushes for the rear springs on a KE20.

:yes: Congratulations to you all. Have you worked out what causes them yet? :yes:

On the money. It's a *E50. The car that beauty forgot.

Where do I send the wreath, and which wreckers will the car be at?

I think the masses have spoken. :yes:

Searchy searchy searchy. This topic has been covered alot before. KE55 rotors, calipers and backing plates are the easiest.

The going rate over here is about A$400 - $500. You can can cheaper if you look, but not often. This comes in at about GBP150 - 200. It helps when they're a "matched" pair. Have a look on the tops of the carbs for the model, it should say something like 40 DCOE 29, and the serial numbers should be within a couple of thousand of each other. Cheers. *edit*: the one on the right looks like type 31. Now you just have to look at the left one. :yes: