Redwarf

Good to see Lou's collection of KE1x's there. Did he have his four door there?

Ring an engineer. We can tell you "yep, all good" or "Nope, not a hope", but until you talk to an engineer or your local regulatory body, you will not have a definitive answer. I've been told the moon is made of cheese, but that doesn't mean it is. I doubt very much that anything in this conversion is bolt in. Buy a tape measure, a note pad and a pen. Start drawing and measuring. Should be able to work it out in an hour or so. A diff? T-series or hilux. Take your pick. Both will require mods to fit.

Search function is your friend. When you've worked out what you want, how much you want to spend, how much work you can do yourself, and basically done a bit of homework, get back to us. :wink:

:P

Have you thought about a mechanical system?

Haven't we been here before??

If you pull the outer bearing out, clean the inside with a rag, and you'll see that the lip on which the bearing sits has two cut outs 180 degrees apart. Pin punch and hammer will work it out.

First time in MANY years I wont be at this one..... :bash:

Let your fingers do the walking. We could tell you a figure (87 for example), but there's a good chance it'll be wrong. You should be able to get a good rate from a freight company wanting to back fill a load. Just be prepared to pick it up from the depot.

I have a set of 14x 6 Simmons that would look REALLY good on that...... :bash:

Not if it's done properly. A good plated and welded diff will never break the welds. Everything else tends to let go after a while though. I've never had a weld let go, mine usually did the pinion gears. Lead is too soft. I know someone who did an aluminium pour into one, and that was effective for a while. The best way is still to weld them and plate them.

..... and I have strong views on lockers as well. (Yes I've had many) I think they're inappropriate in a road car.

I do know (from an error I made about fifteen years ago) that there are two different sizes, and if you use the wrong one, the sump doesn't fit. What I can't tell you is whether the difference is 3K to 4K, early 3K to late 3K, or some other combination there of.

Haven't had in a 70, although had them in others. 1) Not kind on axles. 2) LSD or Phantom Grip diffs. There was a thread on it not long ago. 3) I would never have one in a daily. They're alright when it's dry, but driving with one in the wet is a whole new ball game. They're also illegal. Therefore that will also negate any insurance you have when you understeer into something when you run out of talent in the wet.

I used a Suzuki Swift one. I've also heard Lada Niva being used as well.

Nope. I had them on my 25 with no booster. Might pay to use a different mastercylinder though.

Mmmmmmm..... BDA goodness.

From the same guys that bought you the TA64 rebuild, they then turned their hand onto this Model A Ford..... I am SERIOUSLY impressed by this. http://www.mat.fi/project1929fordmodel-a.htm

Oh. My. God. Start with a car that looks like its been at the bottom of a Finnish lake for 90 years, and start fabricating. http://www.mat.fi/project1984toyotacelicaturbo.htm Check some of the other projects as well.

A KE30 diff is significantly wider than a KE10 diff. Felix might have a better answer on the change over details. Why do you want a booster? The car weighs 11/10's of piss all. Unless you're doing a 4AG conversion, I wouldn't worry about a booster.

General rule of thumb (and yes, check your local regulartory body), if the steering wheel came factory with a padded center, the replacement must be similar.

Cut them off.

No. It wont bolt in. Any of them.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!! They're on the shelf next to the rocking horse crap and pixie dust.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Love your work. :) As previously stated, have a good look around then get back to us. :cool: