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CorollaNut68

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Everything posted by CorollaNut68

  1. Not going together today...it's 12 degrees out there...that would be -11c

  2. I have swapped all the gears, learned how to reassemble the synchronizers, tomorrow I see if I can get the rest of the forkin parts in.....

  3. Yup sounded just like mine does with that weird double take off..when you dump it it leaps, kinda hesitates like all the parts are catching up and then zoom.
  4. Car is lookin' fantastic and I'm way jealous... Just a thought on spraying clear on a engine...it will usually yellow or crack be hard to clean later...don't coat the aluminum..polish it.
  5. A few more parts, a few more paychecks...I'll have a new car in a box, lookin for somewhere warm to put it all together.

  6. Gotta love Arkansas, today it was 70f...tonite it drops, tomorrow high 20's, rain, sleet, ice.

  7. Aha! I keep looking and thinking something is not right with the linkage...over here, we have a simple throttle linkage because it comes straight from the firewall...and a complex 2 pulley clutch cable. Ya'll get a simple clutch cable, but a complex throttle linkage due to that LH RH thing....
  8. I was just curious after reading the dual carb post. (saving pictures) On, say the KB...how does the linkage work? Does it use both primaries at the same time and both secondaries when you punch it? Like you would just use less pedal because twice the gas is flowing...do you have to maybe tune down the pair (lower settings on idle mix) than you do for a single carb? Progressive (carb1 primary-secondary, carb2 primary-secondary)from one to the next? It seems to be two identical carbs and I probably have enough around to make one more good one, and know someone who could build an intake if some day I wanted to try that.
  9. Geez it turned into a quantum mechanics argument.... When you get your bolts and lock washers all sorted out...it's a thick rubber gasket...put a very thin coat of RTV on it, plus what you put on the round ends....finger tight all the nuts, then keep your eye on it and just tighten it til the rubber squeezes out just a tad, (maybe a micro tad, I'm not sure if an Aussie tad is the same as over here.) :) If sump bolts get stripped out, something terribly wrong is being done....
  10. If the surfaces are clean and flat I would not use any sealer, makes it a real drag the next time you try to change em. Just get em tight and don't strip em.
  11. Voltage regulator? Even stock they ought to go to 6600rpms with no problem......KB factory redline was 6600, I think K was 6000. I have always wondered though, why the 1100 KB had more factory horse power than any other K they ever made...or rather, why they didn't use the 10-1 comp on the rest of the K's...they kept upping the displacement but the HP stayed in the 70's.
  12. The 19 came apart pretty easily...laid out in order. Haven't removed the gearing from the output shaft yet. If the 16 will keep limping me to work without coming apart, first chance I get I will then pull this one apart and then piece by piece, slide everything off both, swap em out and hope, because from that point on it's all or nothing. I have to keep this one going until I save the money for the other KE I found. 69, yellow, all there, runs and drives...they want $1500
  13. The 13's I got from a '72 Corolla have a small "FOMOCO" logo on them...Ford, (who made mazda's). I thought they were factory rims, they look identical to the 12's...until I sanded them one day. 185/60-13's will keep your speedometer true...185/80-13's will throw it off by almost 12-13%. Here is a calculator... http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php?tires=185-60r13-185-80r13 Put in the original 12 inch size and then you can compare it with others and it will tell you what your actual speed vs speedometer is and give a side by side comparison of the the sizes. 185/60-13 came out with less than 1 percent difference. 175/70-13's will give you about 4% more vs speedo. 185/80-13's will probably rub before you get full turn with the steering. they are almost 3 inches (74mm) taller than the 60's.
  14. Good the pliers worked, mine sits a tad low so I did the "o-ring". Perfectly sized by using vacuum line cut to size with a small piece of plastic inserted to hold the ends together.
  15. Never dyno'd my 3K, but when I could beat the small v8's on the street and even a Ford 351 in a 1000 ft short drag....I figured it was alright. (Had to put new bolts in the leaf springs several times when it just twisted the rearend out). It's got the 4:22 geared diff. Once clocked (and jailed) at 131mph in a 55mph zone...I think that's about 210km/h...the radiator exploded about then, but the engine was great, still hadn't floated the valves. Made another trip at 3am one foggy morning...101 miles on a 2 lane, couple of small towns on the way where i had to stop at intersections...took a little less than an hour with an average speed of 124mph. Had enough torque to smoke first and second, burn third and "chirp" fourth quite nicely and yet gentle enough to go like a tank through snow and ice. Factory spec everything except for ...1100 K head, .20 oversize bore, and two 2-1 headers going to 2" true dual exhausts with 2 big ol' quiet, restrictive mufflers stuffed under there. 175/70-13's. I think the K head on a 3K block is supposed to give it 10-1 instead of 9-1 comp., I don't know, I just know it was fun as hell til I went back all factory. I have to baby it now days. I've had radiators explode, alternators fly off, fan blades break off and chop the battery in half with the unbalanced fan jerking the water pump out and through the radiator, u-joints breaking and tearing my transmission in half....but the dang engines just keep humming along. It ran a bit better and sounded way cooler with the true duals than with the 4-1 header single exhaust or split pipe (fake duals). I cut the collector on the 4-1 and ran cylinders 1 and 4 to one pipe, 2 and 3 to the other pipe then had my Very Good muffler shop fit and route all that stuff to where I had chrome tips peeking out from beside the leaf springs and nice deepish tone. Even though I was essentially running 4" pipe (two 2") I think the quiet mufflers gave it enough back pressure, never had tuning problems or snap crackle pop downshifts..run it on 87 octane. People would always ask (when they caught up) what the hell I had in there....."A couple o' squirrels, and a cat to keep em busy" oh...what was the question? :offtopic:
  16. I'm losing the guts in my transmission. It's getting where it pops out of gear and won't go into gear sometimes....synchro's going, lots and lots of miles. I have a 19 spline later model trans that got the rear case broken and the output shaft slightly bent when a front u-joint broke. I have it mostly torn down with the shafts and gears all out and it seems all the internals are fine. It was working well before the break. Can I slide all these guts off the 19 spline shaft and put them on the 16 spline shaft? Most of the gearing and synchros are on the output shaft which seems to be splined the same where it fits the driveshaft. I see no difference in the book other than the splines on the input shaft, and being my only transport I will have to get it all done, back together and tested on one weekend. It only takes a few minutes to tear down but I would hate to pull the trans, tear it down and find out the shafts are different diameters inside or something. I can't just "get" another whole trans around here. Has anyone ever tried this?
  17. 110km/h is only about 70mph...I do that every single day going to work and back in the middle of all the idiots... Finally found someplace over here that has the parts and I just put in new Brembo 200mm rotors, new calipers and pads...hoses are only a year old...stops great. (I had never had the old rotors turned, just kept puttin new pads on for 20 years...they were about 5mm thick and wavy as hell when I put em next to the new ones, ha ha) I have new drums & stuff for the rear too, but I have to get the drum centers bored out a quarter inch. I could not get KE10 drums but everything is the same (except the center hole where it fits on the hub) on the later model...Ke20's I think, I'd have to look at my ticket. Also, (unrelated cuz you aint driving a KE10)but if you can't get the kit for the iron KE10 master cylinder...If you get two kits for the later model (same bore) you will have enough rubber bits to do the KE10...one of the rubber cups in the later model will not fit. Of course there seem to be many more options on that side of the water than over here, but this has worked for me.
  18. Winters coming in faster than my parts are. So far I have new rotors and pads, new drums and shoes, wheel bearings and seals, u-joints, diff bearings and seals, steering box bushings and seal, hoses, belt, tune-up junk, carb kit, alt., fuel pump, volt reg....waiting on pistons, rings, timing set and a good long sunny weekend. Gonna be a new car in an ugly ass old body. (actually everybody seems to be liking the flat black primer job with the chrome)

  19. Excellent! Looks like you got it sorted...it's a shame we have to get stuff from across the world...Toyota should have known they were building the best car in the world and kept making parts for it. I could sure use a couple of simple brass bushings to get my steering tight again. I told Toyota I wasn't going to buy another one until they remake this one. They need to do a Corolla FGR (First Generation Retro)
  20. You need to find an old guy at NAPA who knows how to do something besides look in a book. Most of the people working in parts stores nowadays aren't even real car people and only know what the computer tells them to hand you. If all else fails (and you would like to be able to stop after driving through puddles, I know you get puddles nearly every day around 2-3 o'clock, I lived in Orlando for 2 years), you can order rotors, calipers and pads and do a front disc swap....the stuff from 70-72 will bolt directly on with no modification, you can set your drums aside and do them later if you want. Keep the original stuff for shows and use the discs for daily driving, they make a big difference.
  21. Holy Moley! I found another KE10 just a few miles from me...can't tell from the photo if it's 68 or 69, looks 68. My brother sent me a pic, gotta go look at it. One owner.

  22. Jack is dead. Jack was an uplifting sort for 45 years. Jack started showing some signs of slowing down in the last few years and then the other day , Jack simply collapsed on the job....gonna have to get a new jack.

    1. mexr69

      mexr69

      RIP JACK DO DONE WELL

  23. Nice job...Looks very clean...we call em "station wagons" over here ...lol, and until now I've never wondered why I think our plates over here are only $50 per year for personalized and you have to pay that every year so eventually they get their money, but I got my Antique tag about15 years ago for about $50 and it's lifetime, I never have to see those long lines again.
  24. I don't know why it makes me happy but...when the guy in his new Ferrari or Porsche or Corvette, Camaro, Challenger, Lexus, etc. etc.....is cruising down the freeway all happy, thinkin "yeah I'm bad now, got the baddest ass car, ...what's that?, oh man, damn, now I gotta go find something else!"..... At least that's what I like to think they're thinkin when they come flying down the freeway at 120mph but slow down to pull up next to me and check the car out before shooting off again....... Or going to a car show to see all the different cool ass cars and trucks, and finding the crowd around mine out in the parking lot
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