kangaroosa

LOL, Yeah i'll get onto it one day soon. I have to dig up the instruction manual and brush up on the basics. I actually copped a virus or something that buggered up my internet explorer. So i formatted my main h/drive (3hrs later). I'm still deciding whether to upgrade my computer, before i re-install all my software again. So leave it with me, i'll get there sooner or later. =)

Sounds interesting. I might try and get out there sometime over the weekend. Nick - I have video footage of the last VIC motorkhana that Colin competed in, but i still havent transfered it to my computer. Its all a bit hard at the moment. :thumbsup: If i make it out to Ballarat, i'll get some more footage. From memory, its about a 1.5 - 2hr drive from my place. I have a few uncles and aunties in Ballarat, so i should make a day of it. Isn't Ballarat Airport still operation? Is the traffic school located at the airport too?

I picked up my Lovells Super Low springs yesterday. Along with a pair of Boge strut inserts. Hopefully i'll fit them this weekend and i can tell you what their like. Lovells Super Lows are 45mm-65mm lower than standard and $150. Lovells Springs

I would suggest that you get something that doesnt hold water. If it's what i think your talking about, then no. Try a dense rubber .

The regular 7500rpm comment by nick has put my mind at ease a little.

I have the same problem with Vodka. :thumbsup: I have a feeling this thread will go far.

I had my doubts about the chev lifters too. They just seem to be a very soft metal - compared to the standard toyota stuff. I have dual valve springs (not sure what make / model). As you stated, that could have been causing some drama's too. I'll wait and see how the hyd setup goes. I don't feel like throwing anymore money into the motor, so i hope it all works.

I used to eat those noodles hard too. I always overdosed on the chicken flavouring. You get to the noodles in the bottom and it tastes like your eating chicken salt -ewwww.

Ok here goes. The engine was built in December 2004 and installed. From the first time i turned the key, it had a noisy lifter (i mean bad) and it just got worse within a matter of 5-10mins. During this time, i was running in the cam, but the noise got real bad. I set the tappet clearances approx ten times over......because the noise would return within a matter of seconds after i set the clearances. (whilst doing this i never got to drive the car to run it in). A weber running really rich and the engine getting slightly warm/hot caused a severe case of glazed bores/rings. Nick- This cam was the standard 5k cam, reground. So the engine builder stripped the engine down and found that one of the cam lobes (cyl 3 exhaust- from memory) was not centred below the lifter bore ( i know they are are slightly offset). Infact, it was 5-10mm offset. Causing this to happen to the lifter (pictured). The standard reground cam was replaced with a brand new Crow cam, new Crow Lifters (chev). The engine builder re-assembled the motor and performed the cam run-in in his workshop. It too had noisy lifters, and it started to kill that set of new lifters. So out it came again. The Crow cam was saved from major damage and he had that cam re-ground to a different profile. More new Crow lifters were fitted, along with new datsun pushrods and new threaded tappet clearance adjusters. All was fine then. It was always using oil (about 1-1.5lts a week in the end). Glazed bores still....... So i ditched the DGV weber and installed twin SU's. Once i had them all tuned up, i ripped out the motor and had it rebuilt as of last week. Upon inspection of the lifters, a few of them had started to wear and had scuff marks etc in them. The engine builder decided to switch back to the hyd setup. The engine is still sitting on my shed floor. I'm waiting for it to jump into my engine bay. I'm not a big fan of revving my motors beyond 6500rpm, so i'm not overly fussed about having the hyd setup. However, i am dissapointed that i don't have the solid setup that i paid for, and the peace of mind of knowing that can i can rev the ring out of it from time to time. btw - my 5K has dished pistons

I'm pretty sure your right. Maybe the ignition barrel/wiring. I have never encountered this problem before

Solid lifters are only neccesary if you plan to rev the motor to high rpm's regularly. Read these articles. 5k lifters Lifters FAQ

The lifters in my 5k "were" chev lifters too. I also had datsun a12 push rods. The engine was rebuilt last week and converted back to hyd lifters. Reason: Its chewed up 2 cams and 3 sets of lifters in 8 months (even when i got the engine builder to run it in the second time). The engine is still sitting in my shed.

Geez those blokes know their way around photoshop. I honestly thought they were real.......thats why i posted it. I don't know if you noticed this one Jamie?

I wonder if the USA are getting cheaper fuel prices....now that Bush has got his hands on it.

In melbourne we are paying low $1.20 for unleaded. $1.27 for BP Ultimate. Apparently Monday is the cheapest day to buy unleaded fuel at $1.21 :y:

As long as there isnt another serial number stamped into the metalwork of the engine bay or chassis. Then i guess the sticker would have to match that.

Click

And the award for the most Emoticons in a single post goes to Cookie.

Since i was the person that originally posted this movie, i thought i'd do a bit of research to clear it up. Heres a few extracts from other sites like Mini Trucks yes, the truck has a 12 V cummins...isn't it great to have a cummins engine!

LOL. I couldnt have said it better myself.

Ever seen a Ford F350 pull an 11 second quater mile?? F350 Now you have.

Everything should just bolt up as per normal. Make sure you loop the inhibitor switch, to allow the car to start with a manual gearbox. You may have to cut a small section of the trans tunnel to allow the shifter to sit further back. You will need a manual g/box tail shaft, if you don't already have one. Heres a link to an article that details the process. It may not all be relative to you as its for a ke20. Its just to give you an idea of what to look out for. Click The pedal box will bolt straight in. Theres more info at the link below. Click Have a read of these articles, and then feel free to ask any questions that havent been answered.

Just to add to this, i have taken this extract from the following link. QLD Mods The wheel track must not be reduced to less than standard. The wheel track must not be increased by more than 26mm. The tyre width must not be more than 1.3 times the car manufacturers widest optional tyre. The diameter of the tyre must not be more than +15mm or less than -26mm compared to standard.

A while ago i promised to post some pics of my baffled sump (when it was finished). Unfortunately the engine builder forgot to call me when he had finished the sump. He called me today to tell me that my engine is finished and ready to pick up. Hence, i don't have any pics. Sorry. The 5K sumps already have a nice baffling setup in them standard. The only baffling that was added to my sump, was a plate at the rear of the pickup to slow down the oil rushing away upon acceleration. Another plate was added higher up at the rear of the sump to prevent oil splashing up towards the rear main seal area.

Hooley Dooley. Thats one wicked Old School Rolla.