Bowler

No Good, Hope no-one was injured. Shame about the car too, after all the hard effort that you put in. Are we keeping in the same "K" vein, or going for something a little more tropical?

Hi All, Any idea what this is from and if it might fit an early model e3x grille? Cheers, Andrew

Haha, good pickup...think he meant 2ml/sec

Is the filter showing fuel, or is it completely dry? if its dry, try disconnecting the fuel line from the pump. Hold the line and filter low in the engine bay until the fuel flows from gravity. then reconnect and try again.

shouldn't be too hard. Like wiring any other ciruit really, you will need a trigger cable/switch (85), a positive to the relay, then a cable that runs from the + on the batt to the relay (Fused) (30), then onwards to your driving lights (87). (86) will be your earth. follow the diagram, replace horn with lights

Cheers, Will do.

Thanks for that! any sort of feel to the screw? should i tighten until it feels tight, or do i use a quarter turn at a time?

Hi guys, Have had a bit of a look around the forums, and was wondering how is the best way to "tighten" the factory steering in my ke36. The manual refers to a spring loaded method, but I was wondering if there was an easier/more modern way to go about it. Let me know your methods! Cheers

Hi guys, I have an older style ke30 dash (as show), And I can't figure out how to locate the top of the ashtray to stop it moving. There is a mount at the back that I can locate, but I'm not sure if I am missing a bracket behind the dash, that links up with the top bracket. The reason I ask, is that the previous owner has installed gauges in this area, and I am converting back to the original fascia. Any light shed would be greatly appreciated, Cheers Andrew

Hats off to you sir...Thinking outside of the box and making it happen. That is a true testament to your engineering right there! Look forward to seeing the video's and developments as they come - you you could have a businesscase on your hands if this sort of interest continues!

Sold, Thanks for the Interest

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Any Interest?

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Location: Preston Item Condition: Reason for Selling:Consolidating Price and Payment Conditions: $500 FIRM (No RWC) The good... This car features: Interior re-upholstered interior, Door speaker pods, SX Dash (with sender), Elec. mirrors, Custom parcel shelf Remote central locking Immobiliser Factory S/W, (Not Shown) Exterior Black powder-coated SX alloys, Lovell (Low) springs Koni Yellow Shocks SX front swaybar SX strut brace SX series 2 brakes F&R Body - 398,000 Kms Motor - 200,000 Kms This car has served me well through the years, but it is time to part. It is reliable, but needs a little work to bring it up to RWC, but not unachievable. Things that need work... - Engine Tune-up - shock re-gassing (have been quoted 400 by a place in Heidelberg) - brakes need replacing Contact Details: please call, or sms 0408 489 403 Cheers, Andrew

good to see papa smurf is getting some loving.good Luck with it woz!

Ahhhh, updates.... I've...err...managed...to...err. I've done nothing unfortunately - apart from douse it with some fish oil. As Doogs said, I've been flat out at Uni, with my current pet project - the SAE Car. But on a new note, I've re-discovered my weekends. So hopefully over the summer i'll get stuck into it again.

Oh btw, I'll be coming to this. Be nice to see the outside world for a change. Looking forward to it, even if I don't make it up the hill Cheers

The stereo will re-locate to the centre console (where the large storage slot is) The loom plugs are different, and will need to come off the donor car The volt meter will work from the get go assuming you've wired in the dash correctly, as will the tacho The Oil pressure sender will need to be sourced from toyota, and cost me 100 when i purchased mine to begin with.