Bowler

I had an issue once where it'd be a pain trying to select, or change from first gear. The issue was put down to a stuffed clutch (the disc had shattered). Changed to a new clutch, problem solved...

Supercheap quote 28.99 for a balljoint on their website for what it's worth.

EDIT: No furry woodland creatures were harmed in the making of these videos...

3 wires - 12V Active - pretty much straight from the battery, same as a memory wire for a stereo - 12V Dimmer - becomes active when the lights are switched on, to dim the clock face for less glare - Earth. You can not break the clock, because it'll only operate 1 of 2 ways. and even then assuming you have the lights off, and the clock operating, you'd just need to connect the other terminal to the active light circuit to finish the job

well, the exhaust is usually mild steel, which will corrode over time. so a certain amount of corrosion by way of rust, is acceptable. so long as theres no evidence of cooling issues, or milky oil, then its quite probable, that the water vapour in the exhaust is condensing and being blown out...

Rusty water, and steam, caused by the hot exhaust gas condensing on the cooler exhaust pipe? is it oil and water, oil or just water?

Epic build so far mate. In terms of club reg, Victoria has a log book system where you can get 45 or 90 day registration. For a great Toyota affiliated club, try http://www.tccav.org.au/ - They are involved with all kind of motorsports too, as well as being Vic-roads approved. In terms of club reg, follow the guidelines on the website. TCCAV generally require you to attend 1 meeting a year with the club registered vehicle, then you're left to your own devices (so long as your membership doesn't lapse). Most of the Vic club reg'd cars are through the TCCAV. They have a monthly meeting the 2nd Tuesday of each month starting at 7 at the Emerald Hotel in South Melbourne. Cheers mate

What sort of costs were you looking at for the MC service WW?

Some pics No winders (patched location). not 100%, but I'm happy ...also, the shiney speakers :) Center console...not much going on here Dash...with Cruise control pad in the background My new, shiney horn badge Drivers side speaker pods Electric window controls - thank you mr. BMW Rear anchor point, and Waeco Battery 12V switched outlet for the waeco setup Started work to make the bonnet a little more uniform And a pic of the engine bay, without the bonnet...just because. Brakes and Tyres...and saving :D

That's exactly what i was after, thank you. Cheers for the info Cameron, I had seen this set up on a xe1x of some description, but there were no other pics to show the outlet end. Very useful information though. Thanks Mick and Cam

Fair enough sounds like a possible solution - perhaps as a catchcan... Thanks It does have the baffle. But, I figure i brought it like this, so might as well use it. Autosol for the original could be an option too.

So, Some photos of the valve covers Side-by-side Note the difference between the length of the outlets at the rear between the two, and the lack of breather return to the carb. Close up of the PCV Valve/Breather return on the existing Close up of the breather line, and blanked area. The breather line is also internally baffled. I should also point out that the aircleaner currently fitted, does not feature a return vent like the original - I could retrofit however. Cob? What would this mean with respect to the breather line from the PVC? Plug the hose? Thanks for the replies guys. Cheers

Hi all, I have what appears to be an early model valve cover, with only one opening which i assume is for a breather. I wish to put this on my 5k (due to the fact that its polished), however I have concerns over pressurising the valve cover. Can anyone advise me to how were they vented/set up on the earlier models (ie, do they have a PCV valve, or are they vented directly to the atmosphere), or if you have fitted one to a 4/5k, how did you plumb the system. Cheers in advance Andrew

Its the Camry isn't it...

So have done a bit more work on the interior. The electric windows are again in, but no longer fouling and blowing fuses. :wootjump: I have also completed one door trim/speaker, and have started to patch the winder locations. Will get pics up tonight/tomorrow

COTY?

Yeh, they would...just need to get some wheels, then I'll get them made up. By the way, if anyone wants the CDR vector file for it, let me know. In other news, CLUTCH IS FIXED AND WORKING!!! Has been the bane of my existence, and all it required was 14c worth of alloy tubing... Next stop, Brakes - pun intended...

They would, but why? there are differences between port size between the 1.4 and 1.8... You'd be better off putting the money into your gze, before you fork out $1500 for twins, and carbs... at the end of the day, its possible to get a bit out of the engine, but you're better off swapping for the 4af, or just maintaining the 6a and keeping it happy...it will never get you in to trouble that way either

Received my Stickers today - absolutely stoked! (note, The original badge is on the right) BIG thanks to Devon at Inscribe Australia - Very Very happy with their work

So, Not much to update.. Have been working away at the interior - installed a few tie-down points, replaced panels, installed the rear speakers, and power outlet... Have also changed the clutch, Obliterating the spigot bearing in the process (now fixed)... In fiddling with the interior, I noticed that the steering wheel that came with the car had a clouded plastic horn button, which promptly fell off. On closer inspection, it had a logo behind it so I thought I'd have a crack at trying to polish the plastic to see what emblem laid beneath. I started with some preen to get rid of the sticky stuff... then the proverbial hit the fan...the plastic and the emblem came apart. this is what I found... I was just a little bit devastated when I discovered this as paint was flaking off everywhere. But...I was able to touch it up to this... All I need, is to get it printed, and I'll be happy Cheers

registration stickers can be notoriously unreliable - I'd probably guess that the car is actually a 77, or a 76 model, but hard to check if the build plate is missing

sure its a 78 model? are you taking the date off the build plate or the reg sticker?

Engine to gearbox and mounts - Yes, they are the same, and are interchangeable. should just need to replace the torque converter with the flywheel, and retain your original mounts... Engine to loom, linkages, gearbox - Yes to a certain extent. it depends on if its a late model engine with port injection, or an earlier model with the injectors mounted to the head. if they are totally identical, then it should be plug and play - just take all the accessories off your old engine to bolt onto the new. Suspension and brakes - Depends on what you want to do. Front: the struts will. the disks will, and the callipers will, but thats abot it to the extent of my knowledge. Rear: the disks will and the callipers will - depending on if you have disks already, if not then i'd probably leave it.

Thats going to look sweet! coming along very nicely, and quickly

Bugger, no good! Ah well, great things take time. Looking forward to seeing it together - it's an impressive build so far!