Bowler

- LIke ben, i thought you were referring to the bumper indicators. Nova is different to corolla for the guards and corner lights.the corner lights, with the side repeaters are s1, but you can swap over to s2 guards, and just use the s2 parker lights, which are about $40 each.

No, the s1 model (with the side indicators in the front corner lights) are more angular to the s2 (side indicators in front guard). wreckers will be your best bet. You can also use nova LE indicators too...or you can always change the later front bar...

Spotted: White KE17 in the Preston/Regent Area - Spring St heading south last Thursday. Didn't quite get close enough for a decent look, but looked alright from a distance!

Yes...even hatch and coupe

yes...same floor pan. The ae95 however is different

Retrofit a/c perhaps for the tropical climate?

You are correct...and I stand corrected...My excuse is - it was 'late' on a friday night, after a massive week lol...

He did say 300HP = 145kw....so targets seem achievable of everyone is talking about 160rwkw...following this one... Good luck

The "F" indicates a slave-gear driven twincam head. this is 16valve as opposed to a SOHC 8 valve 4ac unit. both are 1.6l. they run basically the same model carb however.

They are to a certain extent - you need to change the base plate and a couple of small auxiliaries from your original carb...then just make sure you plug in the hoses in the right places, and you should be right! That said, no extra go from the 4ac. rebuild would probably be a better alternative...

Ah.....Bugger! Much damage?

the later model 4afe (with inlet port injection), and the fc are very similar, but would go with the engine specific rebuild kit just in case.

probably a good plan! good luck with it

Got any water in the system???

New radiator, and babied the hell out the engine...before i replaced it...eventually When the car stalls for you and you stop, can you hear a bubbling noise coming from the engine? steam?

I had this happen to me, ONCE. In that instance, I blew the header tank on my radiator, and was very lucky not to seize the engine... Given there is no computer in these cars to monitor engine temp and shut the engine down as a safe-guard in case of overheating, any shut-down of the engine will be by forced electrical (electrical contacts giving up) or mechanical (fuel evaporates before it can enter the combustion chamber) means only.

Ok, from the test, did you get the printout? what was the SLV (simulated load volts - what the voltage drops to under load ie starting the car)? if above 10V, then battery good. I believe your issue is around the alternator regulator. if the charge light is off, then the brushes are in contact, and the alternator is working. however, when the engine is turning over, and the charge light is on, check the voltage again. this will indicate if the alternator is the issue. unlike a battery, the alternator either works, or doesn't. there is no middle ground, or gradual degradation. In terms of your above data, this just shows that the battery was taking a charge. however a fully charge battery will only show 12.6-12.7v (theoretically, @3.2V/cell, a battery is capable of 13.2v - but this isn't achievable in normal wet cell batteries). any higher will be residual charge in the system. to get an accurate result, wait 5-10 minutes, and test again.

Alternator...Brushes on the regulator have gone. Classic case of it too. I've had those same symptoms on one of my old cars - and both times, it was the regulator brushes. if its an external regulator, then won't be too hard to change (say 20 minutes). otherwise, you might need to see an auto elec, or get your hands on a new(er) alternator. For the record, the symptoms where that the light came one for 5 min, then off, then on again intermittently. Battery was fine too. what happens, is that the regulator brushes come in and out of contact with the stator. You will find that the car will run without a battery connected, so long as the alternator is working too. (SCA do free charging system/battery checks too - with printouts. takes 5 minutes. worth is for the piece of mind)

No, ae86 and ae82 are completely different chassis. You have more hope with fitting suspension from an ae82 twincam, and then an ae92. I believe the front struts of the twincam are the same as the front struts of the base ae92. The front hubs/uprights though are different between the twincam and the base ae82. if you do go down that path, SX suspension is then an option (complete with possible koni/coil over kits).

The Fuel pump should attached to the passenger side of the head, closest to the firewall. 2 bolts, and 10 minutes to replace.

Rear Sway bar?

Thanks for that. That does help a great deal! So so long as the door has a frame, then they should be the same. (Hardtops are different)

Hi Guys, Forgive my ignorance, but can anyone tell me if the window regulators are the same between the 2 door and 4 door ke3x models? Cheers

Repost i know, but good for a laugh...DON'T DO THIS!!!

Sorry to hear Matt, will keep am eye out. That's so sh_t though